Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Odd that even with me having an Ls I’m having the same trouble after switching to a ump. Went from a cone filter to a ump and seem to get a lean code after almost every startup but if I clear the code it doesn’t come back until next startup…. Weird that with wildly different issues having basically the same code with just changing to a ump. Wonder if there’s just that much increase in flow that it’s causing all this.

 

Honestly your motor needs two UMPs, they definitely restrict air flow. One 18 x4” is enough for the 4.0 V6 but larger displacement motors need two 13 x3” or 13x4”

 

The UMP is a great filter for reducing the amount of particulate that makes its way into the engine, especially when loaded with dirt. It is not however very efficient. You need two on an LS and I would argue you could use two on a supercharged 4.0L

lots of feedback out there from race teams on a drop in power versus the ubiquitous K&N. I think there might be replacement air filters for the UMP that focus more on performance? If you’re only going to risk clogging the filter once a year, then the UMP might be overkill for most with the downside of less power often time significant

 

For example my truck made 12 more rear wheel HP with the filters removed. That’s with dual 3/3” 13” cans. I’m considering cutting my setup apart and converting to a dual 4” with 95mm throttle body. I still have a ton of fuel/spark that can be added, I just need more air. Hopefully I can pick up 20 wheel HP or 28 crank assuming a 40% drivetrain loss. The bottom line is it’s a ton of work, expense and dyno time for minimal gains.

On a 4.0 Tacoma does a few HP loss really matter vs the benefit of never having to worry about sucking dirt through your motor? I’d say only if you ACTUALLY wheel your truck.

 

Lol mine used to throw MAF codes after a day out playing. This is how my filter would look each time. The UMP dumps the majority of silt in the bottom of the can which is really nice. I usually just blow it out every few weeks now.

 

Has anybody gone from free bleeds to triples yet? I’m at a crossroads and I’m not sure which direction to turn. Really starting to dislike one screw controlling both sides, it’s making it really tough to fine tune both rebound and compression. I get bypasses come with noise, but exactly how bad is it? The truck will be caged this winter so I understand that’s only going to amplify things. Would love to hear some real world experience.

Going to add. The free bleeds are really legit when they are dialed. My main issue is as the season progresses into the wet time of the year (now) I need more compression because everything is getting blown apart more and more. But, turning the screw in makes my rebound too heavy which basically forces me to open them up and change the physical valving.

 

https://youtu.be/CwdD6zRV7iE

 

You’re free bleeds too correct? I’m thinking about talking to king about adding a rebound tube to each shock. I don’t believe I need actual triples, I just really want control of both sides. I hate noise, but I really like the ability to fine tune. Trying to decide what outweighs what lol.

 

I could be wrong, but wouldn't it be likely that even if you went with an added rebound tube or any other configuration you will want them tuned to your liking? You might as well see what can be done with what you have and avoid the noise that you don't want.

 

I had them flat dialed already. Then the terrain started changing like it always does towards winter. This pushed me to turn the screw in to increase compression, but turning it in made the rebound too tight now. It would be nice to spend a few minutes messing with a screw vs the entire day finding the perfect balance with shims on the rebound side of things. If rebound could stay exactly where it was, I wouldn’t be here asking. I’ve just never had the opportunity to experience actual bypasses.

 

Yes. Free bleeds up front. But I’ll be adding another comp and rebound tube to them as triples. 5 tubes for the rear on order. It’s snowballing into a complete toy. Really not focused for a comfort daily anymore.

 

And that’s the same position I’m in. I had intent to make this a daily year round vehicle. But I can’t get myself to drive it in the snow and salt so it’s becoming more and more of a toy as I’ll have entire winters (6ish months) to play with the thing in the shop.

 

Go buy a set of these first or you will hate your life with bypass shocks... they are awful

https://www.pciraceradios.com/products/bose-headset-a20-conventional

 

Is there anything else to solve the issue though? I’ve been brainstorming hard. Because noise tolerance isn’t my strong suit.

 

I’m guessing the terrain didn’t change nearly as much as you think... I’d be willing to bet you are getting more comfortable with driving the truck and pushing it harder hence the desire for more compression. Once you cage the truck the entire process will repeat it’s self

 

From what I read, foxes are quieter. The nylon valves for kings help a little. I’ve read that using the sidewall eyelet bushings help a tiny bit too.

I don’t have any personal experience though. I’ve met people that said they even filled the cage with expanding foam and it didn’t do much.

I was just accepting I’ll have the noise to deal with and like Harry suggested, just go with headsets.

 

From having triple bypasses on the rear of my truck, no cage, it’s quite loud enough. Id be apprehensive about adding them to the front or having them with a cage on a daily. For toys and race rigs, who cares, but for a daily or weekend worrior, freebleeds seem like a good compromise.

 

It changes heavily every year around this time. It does nothing but rain and washes everything out, exposes big stuff etc. Its definitely that kind of change. And yeah, I know I’ll be repeating things after the cage.

 

With fronts now and rears tied into the cage it is quite loud and annoying. Did about 120 miles of dirt in a day a few weeks ago and am now looking into headsets and what not. Before the fronts and before the rears were tied to the cab cage it was very tolerable in my opinion. But not anymore

 

Can someone with a 2nd gen take a picture of the sticker showing the refrigerant oz amount please? My sticker seems to be missing and rebuilding my a/c so wanted to verify the sticker with what I found online.