Cam gears for V6. Add power AND mpg

After putting on nearly 500 miles this weekend, about 100 miles of that on dirt. I can say is I wish I had installed the Exhaust Cam Gears years ago. Really can feel the difference when aired down and cruising on the trails. Throttle response is much better and smoother.

Last night's camp spot..


The show from this Lightning Storm lasted all night..

 

I’m interested in these but would need some (a lot) help installing. Anyone in the Vancouver BC or Bellingham area willing to help a guy out. Can provide beers, high-fives, and cash.

 

You might find some help in this thread. There’s a good crew of Tacoma owners in that area. Maybe more closer to Seattle, but a few near Bellingham.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/nw-wa-meet-bs-thread.224544/

 

thanks for this!

 

Just ordered these. Lifted 3 inches with P285/70/17s. Have the OVTune 91 and that made a great difference. Installed 4.30s and a TruTrac last year and a Hurst/Core short shifter 2 weeks ago. All were significant improvements in drivability, with some "pep" and throttle response thrown in for good measure. If these make anything near the difference that the tune or gears made, I'll be super stoked! Having them installed while out of country, by a very reputable shop. Mechanic was skeptical that it would be much of an improvement and suggested that I do the cams when the timing chain needs replacement. There are 128000kms (80000miles) on my 2009 6 speed, so it'll be in the ground before that happens. Mechanic said he'd talk to a friend at another shop that builds engines. His response was, "there are no downsides-only positives". Good enough for me. Can't wait!!!

 

I'd question the credibility of that mechanic after hearing that. timing chains dont need to be replaced. thats part of why these engines are bulletproof

 

timing chains will stretch over time leading to the eventual need to replace

 

At 80k miles I don't think he needs a new timing chain. Maybe in another 80k or two. Luckily our engines have the window to do a quick check of the chain tensioner to make the judgement call. Plenty of these engines with 300k plus with original chain.

 

going on 200k with the original

 

oh I couldn’t agree more.

just stating that timing chains aren’t ‘forever’ items as often perceived. They do wear and stretch and eventually require replacing when the tensioners can no longer absorb the stretch

 

I may have made it sound dubious, but the mechanic has not done a cam swap like this before and was trying to protect me by not having me tear into a perfectly good engine, for something he did not KNOW would benefit me. His suggestion was based on changing the cams out when it was already necessary to tear in and do the chains. Going above and beyond, he contacted an engine shop to educate himself on the benefits and drawbacks of doing this swap. After hearing what the engine shops opinion was, he contacted me to tell me that it was indeed a beneficial mod AND that the chains are far from needing service at this point; all things I appreciated him doing on his own time. Service like this only increases my respect and his credibility. I'd rather have a guy say he doesn't know and search out the answer, than take my money for something that, either, isn't needed, isn't beneficial or even detrimental. He has my respect and business.

 

got these installed the other week and the 2015 has been throwing p0171 and p0174 codes. I've cleared them twice now but they're still coming up. anybody have a similar experience or have any idea where to look?

 

Both those are from running too lean on both banks. My gamble is the problem being a bad connector or vacuum leak.

 

yea that's what I had found too regarding the codes. I did have a vacuum leak. Broke the black hose on the back of the airbox, but swapped on a new airbox. it should be good there.

what do you mean by bad connector, and where else could there be a vacuum leak that's throwing these? you have any ideas on how a person could get a more concrete diagnoses.

I'm running a cowl induction snorkel, and K&N filter. Thinking it might not hurt to ditch the filter for a proper one, clean maf, and clear the code if it comes up again.

very appreciative for any insights!

 

Well there is a few connectors to disconnect to help get these installed. One at the maf sensor and another at the throttle body. A few others under the throttle body but I don't think it would be those as they are bank specific and your problem isnt. Could be pinched/damaged wiring somewhere too I guess.
Your new airbox after market or oem?

As for vacuum leaks- at the maf sensor, at throttle body, maybe a missing/misaligned/damaged gasket at lower intake manifold causing a leak..
How does it run? Spraying carb cleaner around the engine and listening for a pitch change in rpm can help detect a vacuum leak.

 

New airbox is oem. hopefully not pinched or damaged wiring cause this will be on forever than lol.

Ill retorque tb, and make sure the maf is on there tight. I did put in a manifold spacer, and did not use a gasket for the one side. I guess that could also be an issue?

its running decent. when I first installed it felt good, drove around with no code, good power etc. parked it, then once I started back up and hit the highway, code came back in about 30 minutes. has been feeling a little sluggish since then, but idles very nicely. when I put the new airbox on today and got the vacuum back to that little black hose it definitely felt better. drove around a bit, parked, started back up and code came back.

ill try the carb cleaner - is that similar to throttle body cleaner? a person would just spritz any joints while it's idling?

 

Carb cleaner and tb cleaner are pretty much the same. I think you have listed the problem though. I'm fairly certain you'll want a gasket on each side of the manifold spacer. That's where I would start

 

yea, that makes sense. do you know if the orange OEM one that goes on the manifold will work? or is there a different piece/product you would recommend?

 

Depends a bit on brand of spacer and if it has a slight bevel for the gasket or not. If it does- oem or off brand gasket should work...

if it doesn't have the cut out and is smooth faced- I would probably use a small amount of permatex gasket maker. My less preferred of the two options.

 

yea, unfortunately it does not have any bevelling. I guess permatex is the way its gonna have to be..