Bilstein 5100 Settings for dummies

awesome, thank you!

 

You're welcome!

 

Did this to both of our Tacomas. The DCLB is on the 4th with a one inch rear block for a slight rake. The other is a DCSB on the 5th and a one inch rear block and is level. Both trucks have a 1/4 inch shim on the drivers side, no lean and both had the ECGS bushing added. Its hard to see the differnce in the two but looking hard at both of them from a side angle then you can see the slight difference. Headon th stance is the same and lift looks the same. Not much difference unless looking at the trucks from the side. Both ride the same and since the short bed got some new Toyo AT3s it rides better than the long bed.

 

Same setup as my DCSB! Running Toyo AT3s as well. I just upgraded front and rear bump stops from stock to Wheeler's Superbumps. Once I get my Icon RXTs, I'm swapping stock leafs to stage 1, extended brake lines and 5125s extended rear shocks.

Bumpstop upgrades has made a difference, in my opinion, to ride quality.

 

Update, I just had the shop put mine up on the 5th setting, new alignment and left everything else alone. The truck is taller, harder to see on the longbed as the shortbed looks great lifted. The 285s fit even better as the wheel well doesn't look stuffed, when the 285s went on it looked like I lost some lift. To me with the 285s and set on the 5th perch it rides better, very little to no rake depending on how you look at it. Wish I did 285s and the 5th setting from the start, however I wanted a new alignment after the new tires so why not raise the front up some. For me it rides better than before, maybe the tires but going up onto the top setting did not hurt my ride.

 

I have since went to 285s and up on the 5th perch now. I think the ride is smoother and feels better as it may be the new Toyo AT3s as my AT2s only had 20k miles which rode great but the 3s are better. The truck now sits more level but not like the DCSB as I think the longbed hides it better.

 

Awesome thread thanks for everyone chiming in.
After reading for hours and hours, I’m going with 5100 all around. Stock coils and UCA’s. 5th notch for 2” in front. Rear AAL 1.5. Should give slight rake to compensate for an occasional tow or when bed is loaded.
Truck is mostly on pavement.
This set up should accommodate for 275/70/17. Will get wheels that have close to 0 offset and should avoid any rubbing based on all information I’ve gathered.

can’t wait! Seriously. Thanks to all!!!

 

If you are lifting the rear, standard 5100s are the same extended length as the stock shocks. You should look at the 5125 part numbers. They only a few dollars more and give extended travel.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I will do that. Consider me part of the dummy group, but what’s the benefit of the extended length and travel?

 

You're welcome.

You're lifting the rear. So, when flexed at full travel, the 5100s will limit it. The extended travel 5125s will give you more droop. If you have the right bump stops to support the longer 5125 part number, it could be that the leafs are the limitation of travel.

For the longer 5125 part number, you'll want to verify that the main and parking brake lines are good for that much droop also.

This is the info that I have:

​

Also note that the sleeved that comes with the 33-230337s needs to be cut down to fit the lower mount on the axle. That's the part number that I have. I don't know what the situation is with the other part number. Likely the same.

 

5100s all the way around. Set at #3 on front. 265-75-16 all added today. From the floor to bottom of fender 37" on all 4.

 

Need some advice!

Got 5100s for the front and rear and went ahead and installed the rears along with a pair of sumo springs for when i occasionally pull my trailer (1-2x per month tops, daily driving an empty bed though). I want to have the fronts installed by a local shop since I really don’t have the time with our 3rd kid just showing up. I know that above the 3rd setting it’s ideal to have a block or AAL to keep from being nose high, but in 6-12 months when I have the money saved up, I am just going to get new leaf packs installed. At which point I know I will want to be at the 4th setting up front to give me a full 1.5”. The question is do I just have them install on the fourth setting now and tolerate the slight bro lean for a little bit? Or do I pay to have them installed twice technically-now at the third setting and adjusted to the fourth when I do the leaf packs in the foreseeable future. Shop estimated $225-250 for the front install. Is the bro lean bad enough that I’d should be willing to pay that twice? Thanks!

 

If you have tools and some mechanical skills it will literally take you maybe an hour. I did all 4 shocks and swapped springs in no time.

 

@tndriver unfortunately I don’t have a spring compressor. Did you just use the weight of the vehicle?

 

Why not wait and do it all at once.

 

Just figured I have it, might as well enjoy it!

 

Yes I did. I have spring compressor tools but using weight of truck was easier.

 

I've got a brand new set of 5100's for the front and rear. I'm gonna use the Westcott Designs Billstein 5100 Preload Collar Lift kit. Will give me a 3" front lift and 1" block in the back. Westcott Designs advised me to use the 2nd clip setting on the driver side and bottom clip setting on the passenger side to account for the driver side lean. May get to get it installed next weekend hopefully.

https://westcottdesigns.net/product/tacoma-tundra-4runner-bilstein-5100-preload-collar-lift-kit/

 

Okay boys, based off of this I was going to do clip 5 on drivers side and clip 4 on passengers in hopes of getting 1-1.5” of lift with no taco lean.

thoughts?

4 cylinder access cab 4x4 metal bumper + winch

 

It says not to use 5th clip on 4x4 access cab.