Archive Hammer Hanger Install Experience

Installed Archive Garage Hammer Hangers yesterday and just wanted to comment on the process. Also installed Energy Suspension bushings in Dakar HD leafs and buttoned back up with Accutune flip kit. Also should mention the Archive guys were available all weekend for some small questions I had.

Should also note that Iv got Fox 2.5 Elites and Deaver stage 2 on the way. Yes….I know, I should have waited for this stuff to come in to do the thing. Given the time demand of the HH, doing all this separate fits my schedule best for the upcoming weeks. Used factory shackles for now and will switch to the AG shackles when I do Deavers with prothane grease.

Overall the HH’s aren’t technically difficult to do but they are time consuming. I just watched a few of the currently available videos and pretty well followed that. This isn’t a how too, just adding some suggestions I don’t think I saw much about in the videos.

Some tips I can suggest include the following. High torque and high speed electric drill, the battery powered simply won’t do it, or will at least take 3 times as long and eat a ton of batteries. Next, I would say, in addition to having the stubby 1/2” bit, I would suggest an extra long 1/2” bit or a 6” extension for it. 1/4” bit is fine at standard length but absolutely need a 6” extension. Unlike the videos where guys were back and forth between 1/4 and 1/2 bits, I also suggest drilling the 1/4” whole completely through first. I did both ways and this was definitely the fastest way to do it. Also, when cutting the rivets off, if you cut to close to the factory hanger it won’t be obvious exactly where the center of the rivet is. Same goes for grinding, if you grind to much the center of the river disappears. Did also notice once I got 3 1/2” holes drilled I could pry the factory hanger off and give much better access for the last. So do the 3 rivets that have best access first.

Can also say the passenger side is more challenging from an access standpoint. The factory exhaust is absolutely in the way but drill extensions will negate this. Leafs don’t have to be completely removed but might help on driver side if no drill extensions. I did remove mine because my OME Dakar bushings were simply gone in almost all 4 corners. See below. Also recommend loosening U bolts almost all the way, but not necessary to remove.

Of everything, I would say the electric drill and the proper length drill bits is what minimizes the difficulty of the project the most. But be careful with the high torque drills when that 1/2” breaks through. That SOB will break your wrist or smash a finger when it does!

On to the OME yellow bushings….they were simply gone in almost all four corners. The photo shown was literally the best one and it’s totally f#%cked! The others were simply gone or just a few crumbles left. As mentioned above I replaced with Energy Suspension and their grease. Gonna sell the Dakars when Deavers get here. Since the Dakars are so squeaky, I have sprayed them with everything under the sun to get them to stop, so maybe all these chemicals is what degraded them, but I can’t recommend the stuff given this experience.

Again, wasn’t super difficult to do but was time consuming. I’d say it took me about 10hrs including lunch and clean up by myself to do the whole thing including removing the leafs, new bushings, and flip kit didn’t add any time over stock. Also had seized bolt on front passenger leaf that I farted with way too long and just end up cutting off. You will have extra from the rear since AG included bolts with HH’s.

Any questions, il be happy to give advice.

 

Wow on the OME bushings. That common for them?

 

Link??

 

I installed my HH's earlier this year along with my Icon leaf packs. I ended up following @EatSleepTacos Randy's method for the most part with the air hammer and the ball joint press. Actually the ball joint press got most of them out without issue. I drilled out a couple of the rivets out when the press couldn't fit. For me, using my battery Ryobi drill worked fine. It was a fun project to do on my truck.

 

I love that method. My current record is like 3 hours for a HH install.

OP, keep an eye on this bolt. The exposed thread on the other side may dig into the hanger.

 

will do…actually gonna swap to the AG shackle when my Deavers come in and I can flip that bolt around.

 

going to do this install soon, would appreciate any other tips. going to fo it with air hammer chisel and ball joint press/drill

 

need to install mine. I wonder if Milwaukee titanium drill bits are lifetime warranty. I’m guessing no and is a consumable.

in that case I should probably replace the few I already melted drilling out a broken exhaust stud prior to the job.

plan is use a Milwaukee cordless grinder, M18 drill, with some extra batteries if needed.
I wonder how important an air hammer is, and if there is any convenient portable air sources.

not only do I not have an air source (unlike a shop with constant 100psi overhead lines), I made the mistake of selling my Snap On anti vibe handle air hammer PH3050B, one of the strongest air hammers.
Only one I have is a weaker mini air hammer I specifically got for tight spaces working on passenger car suspension.

I know there’s small pancake compressors out there. Small air tanks. Both likely don’t have the high flow nor total volume air to power an air hammer well.
I don’t know if ear muffs and 4lb mini sledge with a punch could do it.

 

the air hammer chisel makes super quick and clean work of removing the rivets. both ways work, just matters on what you have for tools. you can see how fast they can be removed in this video, he sped it up a little bit but you can still tell how quick and effortless it was: https://youtu.be/-WiPlb-iL5k?si=GyPosjxA97CPNTJW

 

Link to that method please?

 

has anyone had someone else do this for them, such as a shop? What did it cost?

weighing my options here. Gonna see what reputable places I can find in my area and ask them for quotes

I can DIY. Hopefully it would go well. Only concern is the PITA aspect of it, and neighbor noise
ordered a ball joint press from Amazon
I have a

$123 Milwaukee M18 Cordless Lithium-Ion 6-1/2" Circular Saw - 2630-20 - ( MILWAUKEE ) - BARE TOOL

Milwaukee M18 drill with their titanium bits, but no air hammer and compressor
Milwaukee cordless M18 grinder with cutting and grinding wheels

hopefully it's not a whole entire days worth of loud ass noise,
but then again, maybe that's not a problem. If it's on a weekday during work hours.

Or not to mention other noise that happens outside; doesn't make much difference what the source is

 

1970

 

If you do decide to DIY, I would return that one you bought before you use it. You can rent the press from any auto parts store for free. You buy it, but then get a full refund after you're done with it. I got away with always renting, never buying one and I probably rented it a dozen times.

 

Woods off road in San Marcos

 

Does anyone know what shop rate is to have a shop install HH

I have the kit just trying to find out what it would cost and weigh out options

only workspace right now is outside apartment parking and don’t know if it would turn into a shitshow

otherwise I do have:
-M18 Milwaukee grinder
-cutoff discs
-grinding flapper discs
-ball joint press
-M18 Milwaukee drill and titanium bit set

 

Guaranteed it’s going to turn into a shit show. I did it at my shop with access to everything and it was still a few hour job

 

I figure. Right now only have a small air hammer and no compressor.

hopefully the cutting and grinding isn’t enough to turn into a noise complaint.

I’ve heard some places have the best time using a plasma cutter. Looks like HFT sells them for a reasonable price to plug into the wall regular outlet.

Bigger concern is having any errors such as grinding the rivet head flat and unable to see the outline, ending up drilling a hole into the frame accidentally in the wrong location.

 

@Superdave1.0 you done any hammer hangers yet?

 

Depending on where you are in SoCal, @GHOST SHIP Sergio would be the guy I would trust and turn to for HH installs. Wouldn't be his first rodeo.

 

I’ve installed a few sets now. Cobalt beats titanium. Low and slow with cutting oil and you can get them all drilled with one bit.

If you pre drill a pilot hole in the center of the rivet, about half way, you’ll still see the rivet after grinding and it gives the air hammer something to push on. Keeps it from walking.