TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

My technique is to place a razor blade sticking up a quarter inch (or maybe a little more) in a vice with a spacer the width of what you want to cut off and a taller piece of metal (straightedge) to guide it on the opposite side of the spacer. Like a table saw pretty much. Then go slowly and steadily.

 

Exactly. I usually throw up a peace sign or devil horns to cars I find cool or tasteful. Street or offroad. Even ripped it for a c6 vette last week and surprised him a little.

 

Edit to my last response * gates belt for my serpentine, but rpm for my s/c *

 

I’ll wave if I see ya,
I now commute RSM to Santa Ana off of dyer and the 55 to Del Amo MS

 

No benefit to the gates?

 

That is a gates belt and it offers great grip and traction to your setup.

 

Plus you don’t have to cut the green gates belt. I am also running the gates RPM in a 2.8. Prob will go 2.6 or 2.7 after my fuel pump

 

the green gates belt is 7 ribs. looks like that black one is only 5 which is perfect. not sure what the difference is between the green and the black

 

But you do have to cut the green belt.

Green sucks on these. Black is the only way to go.

 

Alright this may sound dumb but I just bought the cravenspeed mount and speedhut analog boost and afr gauges from a member on here.
I can’t quite see how you attach the gauges into the flex pods.
Came with two set screws but I don’t see any holes in the pods. The little half moon things don’t make sense either.
Electrical tape and friction fit ?

 

I've been running mine on friction fit for years. I absolutely hate it, but there really isn't much of a better way to do it. That or I'm too lazy to run down to the hardware store to match up fasteners and all the junk needed to make it not be friction fit.

 

I went deep and got all the bits and pieces to bolt them in. Took apart the gauges as well. I'll snap some pics tomorrow. I used threaded rod and cut my own lengths so I could put nuts on the back, using the little half moon things. I also had to sand down the buttons on the front of my gauge to keep them from rubbing the back of the steering wheel

 

Quick question for 6spd folks. Does anyone know if the urd EL headers clear the bell housing for transmission removal? Looking to put my headers on but if I have to take them loose to remove the trans. I'd rather install a new clutch kit when I do my headers.

 

Totally out of the way. It's everything else from behind the headers that has to be removed to drop the trans.

 

Great! Thanks! Looks like header install this weekend!

 

I remember we had to loosen the starter and that was it. I also have a URD heavy duty flywheel with arp bolts I want to unload for $200 plus shipping if you need it.

 

I have the LT headers in and did a clutch swap. No need to move them.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/billet-aluminum-thermostat-housing-for-4-0l-1gr-fe.781648/

 

He took my idea and made it happen in AL. I removed the thermostat locating tang on my plastic and grinded everything smooth. Well glad to see another metal option. I think apr had one too

 

Here's the back end. I used the half moon thing as a kind of washer to hold against the back of the pod. Inside is some connecting nuts between the threaded rod from the pod to threaded rod I bought.
And here is inside. I had to trim down the actual mount part to allow the face of the gauge to fit. You can see the shiny part in the second picture.
In this picture you can see the ground down mount allowing the face of the gauge to fit. Also the buttons I sanded down cause my wheel was impacting them.