Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

While I still disagree with it still in his situation. I’ll agree with you on the possibility of a current spike with sudden on/off condition to ground. I typically see these current spikes with coil induction type circuits where there may be a voltage potential. As far as component failures, I see where excessive resistance creating an voltage drop, resulting in under voltage for said component causing failures.

I’ve never seen it but my mileage is not your mileage. So I can’t say electricity can’t do some wacky shit. I trained heavy into the automotive electrical field back in 08-09 but decided I didn’t like working on cars for a career. So I don’t get to practice daily on it. My current career is completely low voltage I/O Based. I do security, access control, cameras, burglar systems. While much less complicated, I still use DC theory everyday, occasionally dabbling with AC stuff.

I also agree with the grounding and just sending it on these fenders. I painted mine and didn’t want to start stripping or scratching paint off everywhere. I moved all the ground points to a longer bolt and created a stud which I sent another cable to my negative post or another common ground spot.

 

@RonRon23 I have been looking through schematics, and one thing is not adding up for me, every time I put a new fuse in, my wipers start to move, and then stop when the efi fuse blows, so my guess is that if I did cut/break a wire, those two wires where effected. I’ve traced all the wiring and so far I can’t find any evidence of damage and the wiper fuses are not blown, and the wiper fuses are in the cab.

 

And there’s the curveball! Haha you have some pinched wires somewhere I’m guessing. Let me see if I can find wiper diagram.

 

@Cleatus

 

Going to say this one more time. Many of the codes displayed are suggesting open circuits. The number one cause of this is a grounding issue. You either have a ground not connected or a poor ground. I will 100% bet money on it. You can ignore if you wish.

If you clear the codes and they immediately return at key on, this is called a hard fault. Meaning the PCM is not detecting the components that are coding. If that is the case, the circuits are all open.

It’s also very common to have 5-6 components sharing a common ground location. In other words, if that one ground isn’t connected or is poor. You will have issues with everything on that ground.

Have a good evening.

 

But if you blow a fuse then the circuit becomes open......... Like the diagrams have shown all those circuits are tied to that fuse, soooooo......... It's a hard fault because there is a hard short blowing the fuse. You can ignore the wiring diagram if you'd like which it seems like you keep ignoring basic electrical 101 and keyboard diagnosing. As someone who does this for a living you should know that just jumping to conclusions, assuming, and not actually following a diagnostic flow chart is pretty poor practice.

Have a good evening.

 

Do any of the diagrams tell locations or have a key for the locations to help maybe pinpoint where those 2 circuits cross and he can find them easier. Or at least locations of the junctions where he could begin to trace from there.

 

That’s the portion I don’t have unfortunately. I mentioned in an earlier reply if he can locate a connector table diagram. Showing where each connector is on the truck. That would be my next step to see which connectors or sections of wire loom are shared by both circuits. Isolate narrow down the window of where.

 

Well there goes that idea. Oh well. At least you have him on the right track. Either that or the wiper ckt is getting some backfeed causing it to move.

 

I can't even wire a light bar. all this electrical stuff hurts my brain.

 

I appreciate the advice, and I wanted to be sure, I added a bunch of grounds and it still popped.

 

Thank you for all the help with the schematics, still not sure what’s causing it, I took the harness apart we’re the meet up, and there is nothing pinched or broken

 

There’s a hard short somewhere. Have you poked around inside the fuse box? Are you troubleshooting with a dmm? Without all the resources, it’s kind of hard to tell you what exactly and where exactly to check with the meter over the internet. It’s a process of elimination game and jumping around will kind of get you lost chasing your tail for the issues.

For shits and giggles, go pull the 3 relays out that are tied into the highlighted circuits. A/F HTR relay, AI valve relay, and AIR Pump HTR relay. See if you still pop fuses. If you still pop the fuse, your issue is before the relays. If you don’t pop the fuse, add 1 relay at a time until you pop again. Then you can conclude hey this fuse pops when we introduce this portion of the circuit. Leading your troubleshooting on that leg vs the other legs branching out.

 

Installing @SpensirG jd kit and he brought this up. @EatSleepTacos had a issue with the banjo hitting the bypass mount. The spindle hits the cup but can see that deflection may bring that into the mount or if at lock and the suspension cycles it will take out the banjo. Anyone have a cure. I sent Jesse a email with a video so hopefully they get back to me when they open tomorrow

 

I pulled each relay individually, still popped, but I think I’m onto something finally. I removed the tape on the harness where the wiper harness goes into the main harness that is on the driver side, was inspecting everything, and couldn’t find anything, through a fuse in, and it ran better, no cel or track light, still had a few stored codes, and still smelled like it was running rich, grabbed the wires at the harness intersection and the fuse popped and truck started running like crap, going to pull the inner fender and really dig into the harness there in the morning, I still haven’t seen any external damage, at least yet

 

You can run solid rack bushings if you are worried about deflection and what helps more is understanding when the truck is all full lock stop cranking on the steering wheel.

 

Did you recently pass something through the grommet up and to the left of the driver footwell? The coating on those wires are stupid thin. Ask me how I know.... Almost shorted ignition trying to push a screwdriver through to open up enough room for my GRMS antenna wire. Ended up just cutting a hole in a different part of the grommet, away from the wires. Really fun to try to find a wire in there too since they are all glued together with old electrical tape adhesive and something else.

 

Not me with the issue.

 

Bulls eye

 

That’s me, and no, just recently did the inner fenders with a lot of pulling. Pulled most of the tape off, need to pull the rest of this morning and hopefully find the issue.