Elocker doesn't make a THUD engagement noise

how's it going guys!! I have a really sick 2003 tacoma prerunnered out with long travel and all the works. Im constantly beating it worse than Chris Brown and its always stuck in shops 90% of the time so decided to finally have the under taking of wanting to learn the vehicle and fix it myself after I break it. The first issue im getting into Is the failure to engage the rear diff eLocker. When its in 2H and I press the button nothing happens and it blinks quickly on the dash. When I put it into 4L and press the button, it blinks much slower and I hear a little spinny faint noise from the rear like its trying to engage but there's never a THUD. it sounds like a half second little gear type/vacuum noise but theres no THUD or engagement clearly and the light on dash doesn't stay solid. I can send you a video if you text me it won't let me upload video- six oh two four three two seven nine six one

Im trying to fix this because I spent 3 hrs stuck in the sandy wash over the weekend where I discovered my 4WD isn't working either. I was planning to go to Glamis sand dunes for Halloween so im busting chops to try and get this issue resolved in the next week.

 

How are you going into 4H?

 

maybe you should invest in the drivetrain instead of the bling.

 

FWIW, my diff lock dash light will fast blink when I first press the button and then transition to a slow blink when the locker engages. Even though it is fully engaged, the light never goes to solid on.

There has never been a thud noise associated with engagement of the locker.

 

Might be different between years? My 02 will blink/flash if the button is pressed but actuator not engage. Once the elock is locked, the light turned solid/stay on. But on my 04, it will blink/flash and not be solid/stay on even when the RR is engaged.

 

Before the regear, mine would go solid when engaged. After the regear, engaged is a slow blink.

 

When I put it into H4 and hit the elocker button it flashes way faster if a blink and doesn’t make any elocker noise when u hit the button. Also when in H4 the shifter knob will freely be manipulated left and right it doesn’t POP and hold in a fixed position like it will if I shift into any other gear or neutral

 

didnt realize these functions didn’t work until I was stuck in a sandy wash this past weekend

 

Is it automatic or manual?

 

that us useful info my ex gf blew up my rear diff and had it rebuilt I believe it was a fixed locked rear when I got the truck but I think the rebuilded diff ditched the perma locked rear

 

5sp manual 4wd factory supercharged

 

Ah okay man true !! Same here it’s a way faster blink in H4 and in 4L when I hit the elocker button it’s a much slower blink!! In H4 there’s no elocker sound though. And I was totally under the impression that there would be a solid gearing thud sound when correctly shifted when I get off work I’m gonna try and do some bum stunts to see if the diff is really locking

 

By default, the elocker does not engage in 4hi, has to be in 4lo to engage.

 

Way too much focus on the blink.

Some basics - here are the owner's manual page(s) on the locker. On 4wd models (without the grey wire mod) the locker will only engage in 4 low.


Once you press the button and the light is flashing, you need to slowly drive forward while turning (to create some difference in speed between the left and right tire) for the locker ring to mesh and actually lock the diff, at which point the light should go solid. Without the slight turn, or some wheel spin, the locker won't engage.

Timmy recently released a video of a diff rebuild @ ECGS, and they detail out the "inner" workings of the actuator and internal locking mechanisms. It's well worth a watch to understand exactly what's going on.

Re Grey wire mod- You would have to look this mod up, and see if it's been done to your truck. But it allows the locker to be engaged in 2 and 4 hi in addition to 4 low.

It also should be noted that if you engage the locker on a high traction surface (pavement, concrete) and you try to make tight turns that you risk blowing up the diff or damaging another drive line component.

If you still have issues getting the locker to engage, then the actuator likely needs some attention. But you can temporarily remove the actuator (don't operate/press the button with the actuator free from the diff housing) and manually slide the gear over to the locked position. Try it with the axle supported on jack stands so you can spin a tire to verify the engagement. Again, see the Timmy/ECGS video to get an idea of what's in there.

 

Dude this comment is beyond helpful man thank you so much you deff just gave me the resources to make these repairs and diagnostic possible to get the truck dune ready. I’m about to try the circle turn method in the neighborhood to see if I can feel it lock in and hear wheels doing the chirp over spin to know for sure it’s locking. I’m deff going to do the grey wire mod this weekend I for sure need eLocker 4H for the dunes. I’ll post again once I get in there and get some answers

 

I would swap in a non e-locker axle with a Detroit locker or straight up spool for that truck

 

It does not (and probably should not) be a circle, just a slight turn to get the wheels to travel slightly different distances.

 

that works me now I just put it in 4L and do a slight swerve on the road and it kicks in. Today I tested to make sure it works then I disengaged the locker and did a slight turn and heard a BIG thud like something broke it sounded bad but couldn't find anything broken and it still engages/disengages like it should after the huge THUD breaking sound

 

Im gonna attempt the grey wire mod tonight I looked at the wiring where that is and its far from factory appearance a whole lot going on aftermarket but im going to attempt to find the correct harness and do the mod myself right not

The 4wd for sure isn't working either so I ordered a new diff actuator for the front. Should be here tomorrow im going to try and do the installation myself does anyone know off the top of their head if the rack and pinion has to come off first to access the actuator or can I slide it in and out without further disassembly of other parts?

 

this is in there too I thought you guess might enjoy it. I haven't had a chance to get to mess around with it yet but it seems like you have to pull VERY hard on it to get a response im curious if they're supposed to be more responsive