What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Thanks. They’ve been great in wet conditions, no complaints. Here’s the Maxxis Thread, hopefully you can get some answers on the Ice topic.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/maxxis-razr-at-in-e-and-sl.687907/

 

I’ve had them for over a year and have had no issues with traction in any winter weather. They do have the three peak snowflake rating too if that means anything to you.

 

I got the XL. Wanted to preserve what ride quality I could, and I don't tow.

 

I put 5w-30 in my taco today. Is it totaled ?

 

That's a much nicer way to say that than how my wife does. I have to remind her I prefer reverse engineer to " **$%^*#^*%&%!(!(&$^%!*# " (such profanity) if u like this, u will love how I deleted the traditional starter on my cummins and replaced it with a hydraulic cylinder from a bobcat, a spring from a muskrat trap and no vacuum pump in sight bcuz diesels don't need it. I will say, she would be thankful to know my kind are few. We rare souls jack up the electric bill running that welder...

 

The crazy people are the ones that always live in movies u know, just saying hahaha

 

You can’t possibly think that one picture is going to be enough for us.

 

It fits down in there just fine, with the use of the adjustment arm from the old toyotas while using the same belt. Had some math to do but was able to make it happen. As for the 220v, I honestly can't say until I aquire that 3 phase diode. It has to be at least 1600 watt capable and I needed the cummins alternator since it had to be rated for minimum of 270 and this one is 320 so I got extra in the event of using 1/8 inch rods. The design is rough right now, but I'm making two mounts for it. One under the hood and one for inside the cab. I've been switching everything to ground basically reversing the system so all fuses go to ground, positive cable won't go to starter, relays are getting switched, etc. I've accomplished alot prior to this just by deleting the factory wiring harnessing. I've put over rides for each system including Anderson type plugs between ecm, the new bcm, all my upgrades, etc. I have a failsafe for each system individually which allowed me to get rid of the gateway module, the airbag module, the immobilizer system entirely including the four chips it was programmed to without upsetting anything. So my LAN/WAN, data network, etc are obsolete.

 

That looks cool.
What wheels are those?

 

Wow. That's commitment. What do you mean by "failsafe for each system"? How does that eliminate the need for these components to communicate with each other?

 

First entry to TW.

2016 SR5 4x4 Double Cab (140k)

What I've Taken Off:
-Mud Flaps front and rear
-Front Air Dam
...I had iBoards running boards at some point, but brackets began to rust, so took them off

What I've Added:
-Leer camper shell
-Yakima towers and crossbars

(not pictured)
-Yakima Load Warrior roof rack
-Center console divider
-3x5 utility mat for the bed (from Lowe's)
-Rear seat cover (pet hammock)

What I've Changed:
-Tires* (Goodyear Wrangler Territory AT 265, 70 R16)
-Fender flares: Bedliner sprayed (to resemble TDR OR and to hide parking lot scuffs)
-Bunch of cool decals

* Not necessarily a Modification since these are OEM on new TRD OR and TRD PROs

...I've buffed any rust from the underbody, sprayed rust neutralizer, and routinely coat it in Fluid Film (lanolin-based protectant and lubricant)

 

Nice!

Welcome!

Parkour!

 

Installed the XL GearPOD, I like the setup. Glad I didn’t do the XL on each side. Nice to have the room for the rotopax or anything else I might want there. Also leaves enough room for the diesel heater to go right back where it was. Also took a measurement between the boxes if anyone is curious. I know I was.

 

I just took out toyotas stuff, put in a box, marked for sale, then built only what was necessary i.e. the ecm that I can control and one unit that umbrellas everything not engine related. Ridiculous new vehicles have modules for each door, a/c navigation, etc. So now, with the hairy stuff deleted (immobilizer, factory headunit and antennas, airbag module, every damn safety monitor and so on) it made it easy to model bcm after one from a 1st gen thus allowing me to formulate the correct amount of power in or out to tie an inline fuse to it. Runs directly to battery not ecm. Ecm is of course simple. No 4wd computer (actuator has been swapped for tool steel handle for time being but haven't run thru floor yet) no elocker, switched for cable, abs block under hood is non existing so no worry there and that included the traction and stability which was a bonus and finally the aftermarket electrical such as lights and radios, which are on their own system that I built with a thermal circuit breaker before the battery. It's been a project but it's almost there, I haven't figured a good mounting solution for my throttle cable yet so it's still electronic but I tested it and Holy hell what a difference. Sensors have been replaced where applicable for mechanical and the transmission is manual so that sums it up.

 

It will if you keep running with it. Our oil is thinner for a reason. Probably at starting in cold weather. Therefore thinner oil needs to get to the overhead cams. That’s where it’ll wear first. As to how long till there’s damage is anyones guess.

 

Does that mean I should stop running shell Rotella 15w-40?

 

Nah your fine. I’d use the Harley stuff for off roading. J/king.

 

Can't afford Harley. I'll run the honda version haha.

 

I think you are totally ok. Just don't tell Toyota.