What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Might be a stretch to go that far but I agree with your train of thought that it should help, how much, not sure. I also struggle with their justification that it was ready for production. 2 years and 35k miles send like a small sample size, but I do understand the limitations of a small company....

 

Yeah but the force is always there, it's not just when the arm drops out fully. Every bump you hit is putting force on the ball and cup of the LBJ.

 

The force is there, but if the strap keeps the LCA (and thus LBC bolted to it) from travelling down far enough to disengage the ball, then it sort of solves the problem, I think - at least, largely mitigates it.

 

Haven't seen limit strap shredded like that. Did the strap rub into something?

 

Not as far as I know. It broke at the sewed seam, and it has... ~80K miles on it, so it doesn't surprise me that it would need replacing.



The other one shreded at the buckle.

 

It's 1k to still have a problem that exists due to neglect. I don't feel that the ball joint is weak. It, like everything, wears out.

 

Eh I don't think so. Even stock the shocks are limited the LBJ from that sort of "top out" force you are refering too. And even then the UBJ binds and would lock up first before the LBJ, even with after marker UBJ. Then the CV. So the LBJ doesn't see those shock forces really. No matter what the design is setup in a way that it's literally being pulled apart basically all the time. Every time you rebound at least all the pressure is put on the bottom edge of the cup. And a lot of it. Its not shock force sure, but its constant forces and always changing too.

This is why the 2nd gen have a capped joint.

 

agreed.


I think I've seen more bolts fail than joints. Including my own explosions.

No way to get around that other than some custom spindle thing. Have wondered if you could get a modified boxed spindle from a 2nd gen to fit. Need custom CVs though.

 

Agreed. As long as you're periodically checking them for play, shouldn't be an issue.
For as "weak" as these lbj's are, I've never had a joint failure. Only had 1 bolt almost back out once, but otherwise the joints have held up to a surprising amount of abuse.

 

There aren't many things I can think of that I cannot stand about the first gen taco but.... Skid plate bolts. to hell skid plate bolts. Probably why I left the damn thing off the truck for the last couple of years.



/rant

 

Screw it. Was going to wait until tomorrow, but decided to start removing the transmission today. Here we go.

340E is coming out. Front drive shaft/correct bolts for tcase to transmission should be here tomorrow, and then this will go in.




Will wire up the harness for the 4WD indicator light on the weekend when the connectors arrive. The swap is almost complete.

EDIT: I removed the stabilizer bar for a bit more room to work and I have to say, you folks who run without it - don't know how you do it. I took it for a quick drive without it on and damn if it didn't feel all over the place. I'm sure it takes some getting used to but for me, it's going back on.

Also unpacked the rear driveshaft. Trying to decide if I should run with the CB they assembled with it or if I should swap in the 3 year old Spicer I have sitting in its box on the parts shelf.

 

If you're not on newer shocks and coils it's terrifying for sure. Haha but if you have decent shocks and not trashed coils it's soooo much better. Just a small adjustment to driving style.

 

I hardly noticed a difference with my sway bar off, but I removed it when I put my Kings on with 600# springs.

 

Well, 881s with nitros and less than 5k on them and that's over estimating really. Definitely not the high end of course but better than stock. I'm sure it's just an adjustment period. I didn't really give it a chance though, just a quick run around the neighborhood.

 

Sway bar made no difference for me...then again as suggested, quality shocks changes things.

 

Yeah go hit a pot hole a speed now and you'll understand

 

Get some!

 

Eeewwww... A340E draining away. When I pulled the dipstick tube, found it interesting that where they join together it was covered in oil build up - as in engine oil. Now the VC gaskets are leaky and I do need to tackle that next but makes ya wonder if any slipped past that 20 year old o-ring gasket.

Another interesting observation, the original dipstick tube is slightly shorter than the one I ordered for the 340F. Odd since when I pull up my VIN on partsouq they list my prerunner as using the exact same oil pan, dipstick tube and dipstick as the 99 4Runner 340F which is the transmission that I'm putting in. Going to have to double check everything to make sure I'm not using the wrong size dipstick. Have to have the correct fluid level. When I get the 340E completely out, will be able to compare pans better. They do look the same at first glance, same amount of magnet places as well.

 

Truth

 

Let us know how that drive shaft works out for you. With the $$ I've spent rebuilding mine I could have purchased one new, like you did (and still may do so).