5w-30

The minimum HTHS (Hi temperature/hi shear) of an oil is generally considered in the 2.6 -2.9 range. This represents the very low end of the spectrum in terms of protection but is within an acceptable level. That's where 0w20 falls.

In The States the EPA mandates that manufacturers "recommend", not require the viscosity that the engine was certified on. So to eek out a bit more MPG (at least on paper) 0w20 was used.....thus is recommend.

You'll notice that Toyota also includes a footnote in the manual that an oil of a higher viscosity may be used under "blah, blah, blah conditions". That's Toyota's way around the mandate.

Other countries do not have CAFE (corporate average fuel economy). Therefore Toyota defaults to a more standard viscosity recommendation of multiple weights.

There are no specific "US engines with different internals or tighter tolerances" has is often said.

0w20 simply allows for a slightly higher CAFE rating while offering what's considered acceptable protection. Using a 5w30 will do no harm to your engine and under certain situations may offer better protection in the long run.

 

I use bacon grease. Sure, it's a little thick on those cold mornings but it's gotta be better than that thin watery stuff Toyota calls for. Right?

As a bonus my oil changes smell heavenly.

 

Crazy. I always kinda accepted the argument that the engine was designed for a specific oil. Well if that were true, which one was it design to work the best with???

 

Im sticking with the 5w-30

 

I thought the same, till a came a crossed this manual, same truck, same engine but much broader oil types. I think the answer is it doesn't matter, besides the temp requirement on the heavier stuff use what you want. Maybe 0w-20 has like .05% better MPG than the others but that's about it. There's no way the Mexico Tacoma has different engine tolerances the accommodate the thicker oil.

 

All 2GR Tacoma engines come from Alabama or Kentucky....most from Alabama. There are no engines built differently for any countries in North America

 

Screw oil, use KY.

 

Your beloved Toyota lets us run up to 15w-40 depending in other countries.

 

Also....some may not realize....but 0w20 at cold startup is considerably more viscous (thicker) than 5w30 is at operating temp. So if that heavier 5w30 is going to hurt your engine, imagine what that "thin" 0w20 must be doing at startup and the first several miles of driving!

 

Oh no! That cold 0W won’t “fit” into all the tight ‘passageways’ in my modern engine!

 

I’ve been using 10W-30 synthetic blend in TX for 8K miles. I’ll stick with that just to prove a point.

 

I mean warmup is when most engine wear occurs. Think you can drive from full to empty and not wear as much as when you start up, so this is technically true.

 

Ya do what the manual says.... that will show'em.

 

The engineers only had a partial involvement in that decision. What is looked at is....what oil can reduce the internal drag on an engine (improve MPG) while still providing the minimum level of acceptable protection? That would be 0w20.

That's not to say 0w20 is an bad choice....not at all. 0w20 oils are all GF6A synthetic and some have a KV100 rating approaching lite 30 weights. 0w20 is a fine oil for all around protection. But If I towed, haul heavy loads, wheeled hard, etc., etc....I would use 5w30 myself.

And for those concerned about cold weather starting....the difference between 0w and 5w at cold startup is negligible. You would have to see air temps in the -35°F range to really even begin to measure the flow difference

 

That myth has grown 10 fold since the internet became a thing.

I'm certainly not suggesting that some one dump in 20w50 if they live at The North Pole. But there is so much natural variation in oil viscosity depending on air temp, engine temp.....even between different brands of oil. A 5w30 viscosity rating is not single point.....but rather a spectrum. There is a range of KV100 rating that fall under one viscosity. In other words, there are light 30s and heavy 30s. This is the case for all viscosity ratings.

My point is....moving upward a single viscosity couldn't possibly hurt anything when it basically occurs naturally depending on conditions and oil brand.

Also....I challenge anyone to find a single warning in the manual anywhere about imminent engine failure with a heavier oil.

There isn't one for a reason.

 

The big reason I push for 0w in cold climates like mine is oil pressure and cranking effort.

Less strain on the battery/starter motor when cranking when stupid cold.

Then the big one, faster reduction is oil pressure. This prevent seal blow outs.

Again cutting hairs with 0w to 5w, but I want every advantage we can get, fairly often we see -20c or worse during the winters here.

 

Be careful! In Mexico, Quicksand is called "beige". Instant depreciation.

 

I am one that did not know this. Thanks, I am interested to know more and will look into it.

 

I saw a oil thread and I KNEW you would be here…

 

And you too I see.

But oil is oil, right?