Transmission- 5 Speed automatic write up with pics for second gen 4 liter trucks

hi All.
I have a 2005 4 runner with the 5 speed 6 cly eng.
I had dirty smelly fluid and flushed it, rusty lines and changed them with same sized rubber lines for transmission use, and added an oil cooler. Now my reverse does not work, it will work in 4 lo a bit. Goes forward fine in all gears, but in reverse in 2wd will hardly move at all, there are some noises at times. I was thinking something with the brakes, like if I over tightened the caliper bolts when I did the brakes at the same time, or if E brake was catching.
Any tips thoughts appreciated. thanks

 

https://youtu.be/xUFY0L_zFek

 

gearcruncher can I get your input!

* Note: transmission shifting & functioning normal, no issues and I do have OEM cooler. *

Just did first maint on transmission at 160K - drain, drop, new strainer, new pan gasket, clean magnets, crush washers, etc.

Drained 4.7 quarts, added 5.0 quarts and checked level with AT TEMP. Tranny shifting well!

Drove ~ 225 miles, drained 3 quarts out and added 3.5 quarts. AT TEMP mode, drizzle, level good.

Is this to aggressive?? I want to complete the "3 quart" at a time total flush and am at 8.5 new quarts.

First photo, left 160K, right, after adding 5 new quarts and running 225 miles.

 

Looks great to me .
What kind of junk was in the pan and on the magnets during your initial fluid dump ?
The junk on the magnets and laying in the pan is how you determine your fluid change intervals .Its all about determining a contamination level
Obviously if its full of steel , just clean the pan and magnets and fill back up , then in 5k , drain and fill again until fluid is clean .
If the magnets , pan and filter were spotless , its safe to change out all the fluid .

 

The bottom of the pan and magnets had the film normally seen in photos, but was not bad at all, I have seen photos of much worse. Little if any steel particles.

Should I do the 5K intervals from this point on, or is it ok to finish the 3 quart drain & fill until I get to new 12 quarts?

 

If you just had a light sludge on the magnets , you will be good to do the 3 quart drain until you get to 12 quarts . The most important part of performing a transmission service correctly is by removing the pan and you already had the pan off . A lot of guys skip this step and go directly to a flush .Thats when you end up having trouble

 

This thread is a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the info!

 

Hey, this is a great thread with a lot of useful information.
I have 131K miles on my vehicle, and every now and then I when I come to a quick stop, I get a bump like the car behind me tapped my bumper. From what I've read on this thread, I likely need to replace the SLT solenoid. Other symptoms I've been seeing is hesitation on downshifts going up hill, and at a stop, my vehicle wants to pull forward more aggressively than other vehicles I've driven. Fluid was changed by the dealer at 90k, otherwise, no other maintenance.

@gearcruncher Would you recommend installing a Sonnax zip kit with my milage as well, or just replace the solenoid and go?

 

There are other possibilities that can cause this tapping sensation as well .In an attempt to save you some cash ,I would be looking at the complete driveline first followed by a throttle body cleaning and inspection .
Axle wrap , driveshaft splines , driveshaft universal joints , motor mounts , transmission mounts to name a few .
In most cases , when the SLT solenoid gets to the failure point , guys complain of neck breaking engagement .
A new solenoid and zip kit may work but more in depth diagnosis should be done before spending big bucks .
Have you scanned for codes or had your truck connected to a scanner when you feel the bumper tap?

Did you purchase the truck with 90K or have you owned since new ?
These trucks are known for slighty aggressive movement while in drive at a stop light usually caused by the clutch for the Air Condtioner cycling on and off

 

@gearcruncher first of all, thank you for all that you do for Taco owners in this forum, your knowledge has been beyond helpful. I wanted to reach out as I had a shudder issue with my 06 double cab 4.0L V6 2WD 125k miles a few months back. I performed a pan drop, cleaned the magnets and pan (just a film, no shavings or anything), new filter and gasket, adjusted the SLU solenoid 1/4 turn clockwise, filled, performed a full flush and added 12 oz of lubeguard and 2 oz of instant shudder fix. I have now developed a new vibration when decelerating from 40 mph to 30mph. Anywhere in that range causes a vibration I feel in the pedal/seat I think. It's like clockwork and when accelerating/decelerating in that zone, the truck just feels like crap. It does not matter if in overdrive or 4, and I don't think braking/accelerating stops it until I'm further away from 35 mph. This is where the truck usually enters 4th gear so I worry my 3rd/4th gear may be toast as I imagine the previous owner let the shudder issue continue for too long, no clue but truck only has 125k miles, thoughts? I greased 1 U joint of the 3 and that didn't seem to change anything, the rearmost U-joint was the only 1 with a zerk fitting. There is a record of new U joint(s) being installed on the truck April of 2017 at 98k Miles so I don't think it could be that, unless only 1-2 were replaced and 1 is bad? I am praying it's anything but the trans as it seemed so healthy when cracking it open and now having mostly fresh fluid.

Although now looking at this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97Du1APCqKo as an example, the issue was a U-joint and also around decel/acceleration around 35 mph. It's weird because it won't vibrate when accelerating until I've been past 40 mph, then on the way down it vibrates and back up to 40 mph, but when initially reaching 40 mph it doesn't vibrate. It might be getting slowly worse and worse so it certainly and HOPEFULLY is a u-joint issue.

 

All you need is two 14 mill wrenches . Pop that driveshaft off and see how the universal joints feel when you move the joints by hand . Its impossible to tell if a universal joint has a seized cup without removing the driveshaft .
In the video above , you could see rust and a bunch of play in the u-joint which was a dead give away that the universal joint was shot , but in many many cases , a seized universal joint will not be noticeable until you pop the driveshaft off . I have a feeling you are going to find your problem . Are your tires new and well balanced ?

 

@gearcruncher thanks for the heads up! I will look into how to do that. The joints “look” fine but what do I know. I had issues with steering wheel shake on highway speeds but that’s been resolved after a balance. Vibration isn’t in steering wheel from 40-30mph, I feel it in the floor, and my seat, the pedal, etc. tires are within the last year or two.

 

@brian92s - be safe, change all 3 u-joints and the carrier bearing. You're down there, drive shaft is out, just do it.

The peace of mind is worth it. If you solve your vibration problem, good. If not, you eliminated multiple possibilities of the source.

 

@Scott B. agreed thank you. I was able to confirm only the rearmost of the 3 U-joints has ever been replaced. Which would explain why only that one has a grease zerk fitting. I will plan to replace the other 2 or just all 3 again with zerks so I can actually keep up with greasing them to make them last forever lol.

 

$36 Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

Spicer 5-1330-1X joints have zerk fittings in the caps. I run these - easy to grease.

 

Perfect, thank you for the recommendation!

 

@Scott B. @gearcruncher update: I had all 3 U-joints replaced with Scott's recommended

$36 Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

Spicer 5-1330-1X joints with fittings. I also had them replace the carrier bearing with OEM while the driveshaft was all off already anyways. It seems to run slightly "rougher" overall, but that concerning 30-40mph vibration is mostly gone/unable to tell the difference any more! Thanks for your insight guys, cheers!

 

@gearcruncher This is an amazing resource, thank you. Hoping you, or others here, can weigh-in on my issue:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tarved-for-atf-even-after-topping-off.789080/

In short, got P2714 in hilly terrain, suspect pump is being starved for ATF despite the level recently being topped-off.

 

Wish I had found this sooner. 2009 225k 30-40 shudder, sometimes like on the rumble strip. Brakes applied makes it go away. Drive in 4th and never does it. Changed fluid, added lubegard. Changed torque converter (FL torque converters) new fluid again, got a little over 2 gallons in it with lubegard. I blew out the cooler and as much as I could get out of the trans. Fun job without a trans jack. Drives exactly the same. What next? @gearcruncher Zip kit? Lockup kit? Set it on fire?

Edit, I have been checking fluid correctly. Lot of fluid in lines and cooler.

 

How long has it been since you installed the new converter ?
There is a difference between rumble strip and shudder
Any computer codes ?

Rumble strip occurs when the lock up clutch tries to lock against the converter dampner and has trouble clamping , therefore the complete truck shakes like crazy .
For this repair , yes zip kit will fix you up .

Shudder occurs after the lock up clutch has mated with the converter clutch dampner and you feel chugging as you drive .
For this repair , you will have to do a little more investigating .
Last engine tune up , last spark plugs , last throttle body cleaning
With 225K on your beast , I would also be looking at you camshaft timing .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cnc-machined-1gr-fe-exhaust-cam-gears-3°-retard.605925/