What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Truth

 

Let us know how that drive shaft works out for you. With the $$ I've spent rebuilding mine I could have purchased one new, like you did (and still may do so).

 

@Nessal is running the same I believe... A few others as well. I will update once I have some time with it.

 

I installed mine back on 08/26/21 and logged about 13k miles on it including a few trips through Death Valley, Hollister OHV park, and driving roundtrip from CA to TX.

The diameter of the tube is much smaller than the OE driveshaft which leads me to believe that the OE shaft will be stronger. Of course materials and thickness of the metal plays a part so this is just my assumption between the two. I don't think it would make a huge difference in our low power trucks. Fitment was great. Perfect swap. I removed all of the grease in the slip yoke and replaced with my own.

After about 4k miles on the driveshaft, I lifted the truck's front end by 1.5" and the rear 2". One of the U-joints in the double cardon started to squeak immediately. It goes away if I shim down the CB so that the shaft is straight from the CB to the rear diff. That tells me that the needle bearings did not like the articulation. I'm going to open it up one of these days and replace it. I figured the u-joint was probably some made in china junk but I called wholesaleimportparts and they said that they use a brand that was made in the USA. I can't remember the name at the moment. I think the name started with the letter C. Anyways, their website does say that they aren't for use on lifted trucks. I don't know if this is just to cover their asses or if there is really an issue. Maybe it is just my luck. Who knows.

Overall, I'm pleased with them minus the u-joint squeak. BTW, the u-joints are sealed so I can't just pump grease in there to see if it will fix it.

 

Was this shaft from wholesaleimportparts?

 

Yes. Box has a bunch of 'Dura Shaft' stickers on it.

 

The one that you got looks very close to a OEM driveshaft whereas mine looks completely different. I figured that they(wholesaleimportparts) are just the middleman and don't actually make them. Mine was made by driveshaftpro.com. The one that you got is much beefier with greaseable u-joints. On face value, I would prefer the one that you received. Let me know how it works out.

 

Will do. Calling it a night. Have all the electrical disconnected from the 340E. Throttle cable free, coolant lines removed, driveshaft removed - all that is left is to unbolt it from the engine and drop it down.

Tomorrow I'm going to compare side by side the two driveshafts and will take some measurements. Will pass them on.

 

Took a heat gun to some plastic

 

I noticed a huge difference at first when i took my swaybar off, but after a day or two my driving style was completely adjusted

 

215k chores
Oil/filter/grease/tire rotate, sent oil sample for checkup
Replaced corroded tail light assembly
Replaced missing ash tray
Replaced antenna assemply
Replaced spark plugs and wires
Next up replace 02 sensors and get rid of CEL

 

The bumpsteer is pretty bad. New rack on the way. Although I'm surprised it's not leaking. Seems that when most have PS racks fail, they start pissing fluid out the seals into the boots.

 

That last (or first if you start on the driver's side) bolt to remove the inspection plate to get at the torque converter bolts - ROYAL PITA if the diff is installed. I refused to remove the diff and everything else - made it happen with skinned knuckles lol.



Almost there - next up the 6 tc bolts, remove crossmember, remove starter and finally 6 bolts and 340E is outta there.

 

I just have to plug this youtube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/c/ToyotaWorldRunners

They're putting a '76 Toyota Chinook on a Land Cruiser chassis with a 5VZ swap, and they're almost there. I'm in love with the build, and the content is pretty great.

 

After 10 years of Old Man Emu struts it was finally time to replace. Some new Bilsteins, shining like silver gold!

 

Thank you! The destructive testing is done, and I'll be able to post the results soon, once I do some more data reduction. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ed-about-lower-ball-joint-bolts.772506/page-3

 

new headlights and corners. Maybe i’ll be able to see on the way to work now.

 

I'm sure someone here has rebuilt a J-shift T-case before.

I'm looking at options for when I do dual cases this winter. Does anyone have the list of bearings and seals needed to rebuild the J shift? I want to rebuild the J shift while I have it out to mate it to the gear drive case.

I've found a bunch of info on the rebuild kits for the pre 95 (gear) case, but I'm not finding a good source on the J shift parts.

 

I replaced all of the bearings and seals in a 95 transfer case. I'll put together some info for you and update. I used partsouq to track down all of the replaceable bearings and seals. If you have the VIN from the truck your tcase came out of, it can help. If not no big deal. Will also update with teardown info.

 

I'll have to find the sheet from ToyAuto Mart. It had the vin for the donar truck.