Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Don't waste your time going to Toyota axles, just go 14b rear and d60 front and be done with it. Especially with how big of a fat heavy pig the 2nd gen is. Plus the steering angle of Toyota axles absolutely sucks compared to an open knuckle d60. One of my regreats was flipping a Toyota axle vs just going right to a d60.

Chop the front frame off where it bends up and build a new front frame for more up travel. If you extend the wheelbase, build the truck taller. The break over angle of having a long low slung truck SUCKS especially wheeling on hill climbs in the SE. You will have great stability when you go full width on tons. If you are trailering go full double ended ram hydro steering.

 

It's not too late to go 1t

 

What about 9” for rear d60 front or is there a 9” with the right drop for the front? I watched a video on shaving a 14 bolt and it was way more than I want to get into right now. I want a solid upgrade from IFS with good geometry I can build on later. Def double ended ram.

 

Make me wonder if SA is the right option..... If shaving the 14b is way more than what you want to get into, the frame chop, misc fab, and stuff like that for the SA is 10x harder than shaving a housing.

 

Maybe. The preheating and cooling down seemed a little intense. I glanced at it, so maybe it’s not as bad as I think. I’ve backhalved and four linked the rear so I’m not worried about the work and figuring things out. Just gathering info and seeing if it is worth it to me.

 

This had me puzzled as well, given every full hydro rig i know has the ram mounted to the front of the axle with tie rods connecting to the knuckles. What other options are there.

 

Maybe I was thinking of hydro assist. Don’t know. I’ve only seen full hydro on buggies and bouncers aside from a couple IFS Tacomas.

 

Hydro assist still has a front ram (takes place of the steering stabilizer). One side is mounted to the axle and the other to the tie rod. Maintains factory mechanical steering. Just makes it easier to turn.

 

A 9" front will be custom housing from Spidertrax/Ruffstuff/Diamond so you can get whatever drop and width you need.

 

I've seen redneck full hydro with a single 8" ram and a regular tie rod setup. Definitely not as strong or reliable as a double ended ram setup

 

What he said. I haven't seen anything different. @Dayman Karate you have any pictures?

This is a ram assist setup

 

I really need to study up on where to find or build axles. I know most regular people aren’t buying 10k 9” axles on busted knuckle online. I just don’t know where to find them or what to build out. I can figure out the links and steering, but I don’t know much about axles.

 

That’s what I’m seeing a lot of with or without the ram I suppose. I just want a ram mounted to the axle like I see on all the buggies. Fewer points of binding and more clearance for uptravel from the little bit of digging I’ve done.

 

For a second gen, just go something not Toyota. My personal pick would be a SD60 axle. Cheap, beef, and the correct drop for your tcase. Second option would be a fabbed housing with a 9" third and 60 outers. @malburg114 has a 609 that tits here. More expensive and there are some driveline angles on a low pinion to make sure that they will work with your given tcase setup. The upside is that they have awesome clearance and are super easy to work on compared to a 60 where you need a spreader and all that other fun stuff to setup the carrier in the housing.

 

95% of average joe rock crawler builds are with ram assist, it's street friendly. If you plan on driving your solid axle truck on the road, I DON'T recommend full hydro. Full hydro eliminate drag link etc and will provide better travel, but not worth it if you drive your truck.

 

For the super duty axles are people keeping the 8 lug or is there a solid way to use my current beadlocks? I see some junkyard axles for about $1k a pair. Not sure what all needs to be done/rebuilt to work. 4.11 in the diff and a crawl box sufficient? Don’t think they come stock any steeper.

 

It’s trailered and only sees backroads if any now. Won’t bother me if it never sees pavement again.

 

Exactly, although i think most mount theirs the other direction lol.

 

You can get re-drilled unit bearings. Not sure of all the vendors for them to be honest. The 8 on 6.5 conversion is more common than the stock metric pattern to 6 on 5.5. What I would do depended on how nice my beadlock wheels are. I've got 2 sets of aluminium 6 lugs so I'd probably convert but 8 lug isn't a bad direction to move in either for spares and knowing that you'll need to do something for the back if you get a matching Sterling or a 14b. 9" stuff is based around the 99-04SD unit bearing and has a bunch of options to stay 6 lug.

Axle ratio would depend on my drivetrain. I'd probably go to a 5.xx ratio but you could get away with less with a doubler and an auto if you don't care about street.

 

I just bought five vision beads, not nice any more, but would like to keep.

I found this in a Georgia group. Asking $2500. I literally have no idea where to start haha still have to figure out brakes and shafts too I suppose. I’m really out of my realm and have no concept of what is a good price to do this stuff or what will work or be too much trouble to make work. I’m in no rush and will keep researching.