Long Travel BS Thread

I should of added I already have all the mid travel stuff.

 

My statement still stands. What are you really gaining for thousands of dollars? Also I wouldn’t necessarily consider uniballs an upgrade, just another increased wear/maintenance item over a sealed ball joint.

 

And again this is just my personal opinion. If you find value in it for the cost, by all means go for it. It’s a nice part.

 

My fiancés truck has dirtking arms. There are benefits to a fabbed arm. Less deflection leads to a better ride quality, delrin bushings that rarely wear out (but oh boy if they start making noise….) and Provisions for limit straps which mid travel setups really should have. Coupled with moving the tires 1” forward it’s a pretty decent investment. But ONLY if you never plan to long travel.

 

I have a set on my 1st Gen. I like them a lot but no grease zerks on lcas so there’s that.

 

No I am totally on board with what you are saying. What peaked my interest about them was based off their price of their other LCA, it would be close to $1200 a set. The $2k plus price of the Total Chaos ones is much harder of a pill to swallow and makes sense to just go LT. What's the cheapest I can get the JD Fab kit I've been drooling over? $5kish with 938s?

 

This is another option for stock length lower arms that also move the lower ball joint forward.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/game-changing-lcas-btffabrication.766413/

 

After seeing that other guys LT thread and dirt king showing off the c notch bumpstop kit…it got me wondering.

How many of you have c notched the rear frame? I’ve done that with a couple of bagged cars but never thought about it on my truck. Could use a couple more inches of uptravel.

 

A couple of guys have done that with the JD SUA. Even harry from JD says it’s not worth the effort for a couple more inches of up travel. I’m sure those that have actually done it will chime in.

 

Will you have to redo your bed cage to take advantage of it though ? Won't do you any good if your rear shocks bottom out at axle / frame

 

We have had great success with notching the frame, I dont think there is anyone in this industry that would argue that 3-4 hours of labor isnt with 1.5-2" of additional bump travel. Our bump stop kit is self locating and can be installed in a half day.

You would at the minimum need to redo your shock mounts on a truck that is already setup with a SUA. Notching the frame would yield no benefit if the shock is collapsed before the axle goes into the notch

 

Am I trippin or why does it look like the axle doesn’t go all the way up into the notch? It looks like it bumps at the factory frame height?

 

I’m just repeating what he once said. His viewpoint may have changed.

 

My view hasn’t changed because the cost of the kit, hydro bumps and labor isn’t worth it to most people. Also 35” tires bumped 2” higher than the factory frame will be into the bed tub and will require fiberglass fenders. Don’t get me wrong the Dirt King kit is nothing but top notch (no pun intended) like all of their products but if a customer is asking me to do it I would recommend against it for the reasons above.

I always try to stress value for your money and if gaining an extra inch of up travel ends up costing $1500+ in parts and labor not including fiberglass glass I tend to shy away. With that said would I do it on my personal truck? Probably for the same reason a dog licks his balls

I also want to say again I have nothing but respect for DK, they make excellent stuff and are a really great company.

 

Nah. I’d just have to move the shock mounts. Maybe. I haven’t crawled under the truck to see if I have room to move them down. Just a passing thought after I saw their post.

I don’t know how others trucks are but how my cans and bumps are positioned they bottom out with at least a couple inches before axle/frame contact.

 

Then just remount the cans so the axle bumps on the frame.

 

I think its just the angle, the u bolt and top of the axle tube are well above the lowest part of the factory frame. I originally tried to find a pic with a good side view and didnt have any

 

I thought about a bit because part of me wants to lower my truck a bit but I’ll lose the precious uptravel I have. This kit solves that but never thought about it before.

Plus I like messing around with different things too.

 

Oh come on. You expect me to do the easy solution?

 

No you wouldn't, you would just back half it with trailing arms. Because as you said.