Game Changing LCAs (BTFFabrication)

I'll give you a virtual high five if you try your best to measure ground clearance gains?

 

Any big differences in these versus dirt king lca?

 

From post 1: "These push the lower balljoint forward about 3/4” for better firewall clearance and increased caster numbers"

 

Solo also coming out with an arm, supposedly moves the wheel 1" forward and runs a uniball setup.

 

It’s good to see vendors are paying attention.

 

I plan to actually.

 

No protrusion for the steering stop on these?

 

These gems arrived on Wednesday so I tossed them on last night.



My old LCA ball joints had play and I'd get a pop-pop on bumps - when I removed the LCA I was able to easily pull on the ball joint and get the up-down play - so those needed replacement. The bushings were also shot so rather than new bushings / new ball joint I took this as an oppty to upgrade ... It's probably a mix of the overall LCA, the new ball joint, the bushings, and my general excitement, but the front feels much tighter, in control, and I no longer have the pop-pop and other sounds as I hit the normal bumps on the road. I'll be mall-crawling for a few days and will get to the trails next weekend and will report back on where I get contact.

I tried here to show the difference in the ball joint.


Here is a pic with no shock sitting on my bumps - cams are pushed all the way out (forward) in the rear and in on the front - the same way I had them before these LCAs and how I have them now. It is now very much centered in the wheel well. And yes I plan to cut the end of the front bumper.


Looks good ...


Before these, I would rub the rear wheel well backing out of my driveway on a fairly steep decline with the tires turned close to full lock. Now as you can see I have plenty of room.


I did take a few measurements before and after and I'll note the DS changes below (the PS was similar). For reference I have 315/75/16 MS Patagonias on those method bead grips (0 offset / 4.5 BS) with a 1" wheel spacer to keep me from hitting the UCA at full lock. I also have a 1/2" top hat spacer on the DS with super bumps up front. 5100s with headstrong coils (don't know the specs). Measurements are before --> After . These are all at ride height with everything buttoned up.

• tire to closest point rear fender / wheel well: 8.5 -> 10cm (~.5")
• tire to the front closest point on front bumper that I need to cut back: 14 -> 15.5cm. I thought this would decrease. It turns out the height increased ...
• ... top of the tire to the fender: 21.75 -> 23cm
• the low point on the LCA (just off the wheel): 29.5 -> 30cm
• measured from the ground straight up to the LCA shock bolt and measured to the low point on the LCA through that line: 30.5 -> 31.5cm
• front skid ground clearance: 34.5 -> 36.5cm

Using the scientific flat bar method in the DIY Alignment thread for camber I am at 89.7* on both sides after a few miles driving around.

Overall - I am thrilled and can't wait to hit the dirt.

 

Are you saying that the distance from the ground to your skid plate at ride height is only 36.5mm? Did you forget a zero?

Also, did you happen to take measurements or a picture of the wheel at full lock when the truck is sitting on the bump stops?

What are DS and PS abbreviations for? Driver side and passenger side?

 

Correct - those mm should be cm - correcting my post. 36.5cm ~14.5". Yes I measured driver side DS. I didn't snap a pic at full lock. I realized that mistake this morning. I did hit the front of the bumper first which was good. At some point soon I'm cutting that edge off the bumper and have some tie rod sleeves to install but I wanted to see if I needed more alignment work first before doing that. I needed to get this buttoned up for today and I'm most interested to see how it reacts in the dirt.

 

I can’t see your cab mount. Is it relocated or is it just the angle in the pic?

 

Relocated - Alpine Designs

 

At ok. It would be interesting to me if I could fit skinny 35’s without modifying the cab mount by utilizing these LCAs.

 

Is the $1600 price for the LCAs for a pair or just one?

 

Pair

 

That's my plan. If it doesn't work then a CMC will handle it

 

I think thats another big thing that leads to racks and cvs blowing out, once you align out of stock specs and start moving things around, the steering stops at the arm dont contact, and then the steering rack is doing all the stopping. With arms that push the spindle forward, it changes it even more thus why none of them have stops. You'd have to personally dial in stops per setup.

 

Curious what would happen if you paired the JD Pivot kit with these LCAs? Effectively stretch the wheelbase almost 2 inches

 

Get high centered 2 inches sooner lol

I actually was wondering the same thing. Possibility of putting tire into the headlight area? If I recall Marlin's RCLT is moved forward 2 inches, but also adds width so