Long Travel BS Thread

Might be closer to -12 based on thread size? It looks like King does use the ORB style fitting for reservoir caps. They also make adapter hoses. Like it was mentioned earlier, a good hydraulic shop should get you setup in a matter of minutes. If you want King hoses I’m sure they could accommodate. Their website wasn’t cooperating or I could have looked through their parts.

 

King's web site was down the other day.
From what I've found is they have used several different fittings over the years.
Blue hose would be fine, but not a deal breaker.

 

Just do the 4” ttb kit with inset wheels, the jd link kit and cage kit, tube chassis kit, full tt spec motor package.

keep it a mild build for the wife’s dd

 

Can you go in more detail about the limit straps? What's the reasoning for them on a mid travel?

 

Limit straps are designed to absorb the energy and keep your expensive shocks from having to control the suspension end point and potentially over extending. Repeatedly topping out your shocks can lead to damage similar to bottoming out your shocks. Just like bump stops are important so are limit straps. If you wheel hard enough to get airborne or pickup a wheel and hear a clunk then I would start looking into limit straps.

 

2.25 is definitely on the table. SUA is a for sure. Going to tackle pivots before anything though. Alignment didn’t fair too well after 2 weeks straight of 200 miles of dirt per day….

 

I notched my frame with the dirt king kit and love it, you do have to make some more roof for your tires, but no bed notching for 35s. I think it's worth it if you already have bump stops and want to plate your frame. It makes the truck not ride on the bumps as much, not that it does as often on spring under. The DK bump stop cans are beautiful though

 

i’ve got scuff marks on my bed inners from 35” tire contact when articulated

 

I like mine so I dont hear the little travel I have topping out

 

The bypass res fitting saga continues. As @DocME mentioned, it is a -12 ORB.

First hydraulic shop came up with no real options, and a little incompetence.

The guy at the 2nd shop knew his stuff and set up a series of adapters that would work but was a hideous stack of fittings that were almost 4" long.

So I talked to my welder and he will Tig a modified smaller JIC fitting on the body and make it a much cleaner install.

So I had the hoses made and will get the welding done next week.

Thinking I should remove the check valves so the heat won't damage them.

 

what size JIC fitting is that? I wouldn’t install a fitting that small as you’ll restrict oil flow and get unwanted harshness.

 

Dont get why king changes fittings every time they feel like it

 

Not two piecing a 1,000$ shock is a pretty big benefit too…

 

Obviously

 

It's a -8 JIC. The orifice is 3/8" into the hose. I was hoping it would be enough, as the tube coming off the body is only 1/2". All of the other options were much larger diameter fittings and hoses.

 

Would something like this work for the hose you have shown?
https://www.titanfittings.com/Produ...MIw4yc2POF-wIVaSdMCh0algsIEAQYASABEgKWQ_D_BwE

basically as I understand it the ORB fittings are just NPT threads with some accommodations for the o ring interaction. I don’t know if that’s just a flat surface or a relief?

 

I would recommend you using a -10 at the least with that amount of fluid displacement, especially on the rear where you'll see a lot more shaft speed. -12 is what came on the shock but You could probably get away with a -10.

 

Thanks Shane! I guess I should put a size bigger hose on it as well?

 

Unexpected results. Got an abs/skid ECU from a wrecked taco and all my abs/traction lights are off now but the ebrake light remains off no matter what like it’s getting ground from somewhere else. Owell.

yanked the ECU off the entire assembly and made an abs backing plate.

 

It also doubles as the low fluid sensor indicator. Do you have enough fluid in your master cylinder/do you still have the sensor there?