Rich A/F ratios

2015 Toyota Tacoma 4.0L V6, TRD supercharger among other modifications, I will have more info posted tomorrow.
CEL: P0102 and P2198
Which side is bank 2 again? Passenger or driver?
Attached is a picture of the CEL and Trac off light. Whenever the truck throws a code the trac light comes on as well, weird. Sometimes I need to delete the codes in order to use cruise control.
Again I can give you guys the full run down tomorrow. But I can leave this with you for now. What do you thinks going on? Maybe an unmetered air leak.
Where’s Gadget when you need em?

 

I think you have a MAF Sensor issue along with a possible bad A/F sensor.
What I am NOT saying is that they are bad. And throwing parts at it isn’t the fix.

 

Thanks for the diagram, I’m gonna check the Maf, make sure it’s oriented correctly and not dirty. Maybe even swap the up stream o2’s and see if the code switches from a p2198 to p2196.
I do have an AFR gauge installed downstream of the upper bank2 o2, reading rich at idle and lean at WOT, at less I think it’s lean (on another truck with similar mods and no codes IIRC 12:1 or 11:1 AFR’s at WOT) this one reads in the 13’s.

 

Are you using an oiled air filter like a K&N? Sounds like it could just be a dirty MAF sensor.

I like the idea of swapping the AFR sensors and seeing if the problem follows but I'd want to look at fuel trims on both banks first, if there is a bank to bank imbalance absolutely swap them and see if the problem moves but if they are pretty close the same you likely have a problem affecting the engine as a whole and the rich code is an effect not a cause and the other bank just hasn't set a code yet.

Diagnose your MAF sensor code (P0102) first before worrying about the rich code as fixing that code will likely fix the rich code.

 

I’m using a Momentum GT made by aFe, no K&N here. Stock intake gone (good riddance). No air filter oils either, not a fan of those. Picture below of the set up. Also using an aftermarket computer sold by URDUSA.com, forgot the full name but it’s a v-2 something. Just trying to give as much information as possible for you guys.

 

Pulled the maf. Definitely dirty, Gina give it a clean, here’s some pictures for you. Wondering if it’s possible to put theses in backwards? Like if an aftermarket mount for the existing maf was oriented incorrectly putting the maf in wrong cause some issue for the sensor? Here’s 2 photos of the maf. First photo is the sensors orientation in the intake tube. It is pretty dirty… haha

 

Your running a 7th injector with a ucon. You can disconnect the 7th injector to help diagnose if it is truly rich. You'll also need an actual afr gauge.

 

They definitely can be installed incorrectly and will not work properly if installed incorrectly.
Did these problems just start after installing the aftermarket intake?

 

Interesting. First post, picture shows my AFR gauge. So I can run that diagnostic

 

No, it’s my dads truck. He’s fed up with it cause it’s been a hassle ever since we started toying with it and throwing new parts on it. I had one just like it and did all the same upgrades so I’m pretty familiar with all the systems. Mine never threw codes but He started throwing codes I think shortly after the supercharger was installed which was his first performance upgrade. I’ll have to wait for him to call me back so I can get the full story from him, and I’ll relay all that information over to you guys in this forum. After we get this kink sorted he might want to sell the truck, he’s busy a lot so I try to help out when I can.

 

That A/F code is an odd one.
That code sets during fuel cut when you let off the throttle. Definitely a lot of reading up to do one that one.

It very well could be related to the MAF sensor. As Dm93 said, you have to fix that MAF code first.

 

I went ahead and cleaned off the maf sensor, very dirty. Drove the truck for a few miles, will do a few more drive cycles and if the CEL comes back I can get back to you.

 

I'm probably not gona be much help on this one over the basic checks I've given you, I know stock systems pretty well but all the mods that have been done plus the tuning add in alot of variables over a stock truck.

 

Yea. The curse of modifying anything. I appreciate your help anyways. Still chime in if you wanna stick around, it’ll be nice to hear your perspectives

 

There's quite a few people on here that supercharging, modding, and tuning is their thing, hopefully some of them will chime in.
I don't have much experience yet with diagnosing drivability problems on boosted engines (although I'd like to supercharge mine one day), I'm still trying to learn diagnosing stock turbo engines that are in late model vehicles as it adds a whole layer of complexity over a N/A engine when it comes to certain problems.

I'll definitely hang around and help when I can.

 

Picture is not the best, my apologies. So where is the gauge reading from? Can it read both banks? Most likely your issues are coming from the ucon.

 

I thought the 7th injector was only used/needed on supercharged 1st gen trucks?
2nd gens typically put higher flow injectors in when supercharging.
I'm not really on top of the supercharging/performance thing so please correct me if I am wrong here.

 

So the supercharger and a flash tune is usually what you get in the kit, but the Ucon-EMS v-2 comes with the computer a lower temp thermostat 160degree, and exhaust timing gears (retarded by 3 degrees to scavenge the exhaust gas better) which really opens the truck up. I did a few dyno runs before and after and I found a net in about 30-40hp, and the torque/hp curves change dramatically, really opening the truck up to its true potential. I would recommend the procharger kit over the supercharger, it’s a much cleaner install and the power numbers are better. You can go a step further by shrinking the pulley size on the supercharger, but then you’ll make more boost, and need to upgrade the fuel pump (which you should do before you even install the supercharger imo) and larger injectors, as well as even a 7th which helps with cooling and more fuel for the air you’re pushing. It just turns into a big game of balancing a teeter totter with air on one side and fuel in the other. I think I’m over explaining I know you understand this stuff. But it’s been my experience with the upgrades.

 

The gauge only reads bank 2. I wanted to run it on both banks but I don’t remember if the AFR gauge (AEM) can support two wideband 02’s into one gauge. I think you would need two, or a special AFR gauge with two readouts. I believe the issues with these codes began prior to the UCON install, I’m waiting on my dad to call me back and give me the full run down. Then I’ll post a long response on how the taco got here.

 

Yea I know about the cam gears, I'll probably do those if I ever have the need to pull the valve covers but most of the rest of those mods are beyond the scope of anything I'd likely ever do.