Rich A/F ratios

Well you can always shoot me a reply when you’re ready to upgrade. It’s all pretty straightforward. It’s not like building something yourself like picking out heads headers and intake combos on any small block, Everything is neatly laid out for you with instructions. It took me about 12hrs to install the computer and timing gears. A little long but I’m no ASE mechanic!

 

Here’s the run down from my dad, sorry for the all the side chit chat, he wasn’t getting any codes after the supercharger install, but after he put on these emissions compliant headers that had cats, the cats ended up loosening and clogging the exhaust, which caused an excessive heat build up, and destroyed the piston head of cylinder 2, wish I had a picture it’s cool to see, anyways we had the motor rebuilt by a mechanic, and everything was fine again, we took those stupid headers off and threw on some proper headers, as well as a 7th injector, larger injectors in the rail and a smaller pulley 2.6 or 2.5” quick change. That’s when we started having codes pop up, almost likely the injectors are throwing in too much fuel. As of today, I drove the truck a bit and that code hasn’t popped up yet, but I have a feeling it will pop up again. We’ll see. Truck is still running kinda rich at idle, not completely stoich. Might have to give gadget an email and see if he can remotely dial in the UCON. We ran diagnostics with him over the computer where he had remote access to the ucon’s output data on the east coast, (we r Midwest). That was back when we blew cylinder 2 apart. Truck still ran believe it or not. Just had a dead cylinder. We did a compression test after that rebuild and got around 210 psi on all cylinders. Like I said the code hasn’t popped up so I can’t really say any of this is helpful until/unless the codes come back. You guys know who I’m talking about when I say Gadget right? I think his name is Steve, sells all the parts on URDUSA.com website and works with a guy named Tom I believe, who was a master tech for Toyota, who designed the UCON engine management system.

 

Install post y pipe for one gauge or get two afr gauges one for each bank.

 

The supplied injectors get taxed once you step down a couple of pulley sizes. 7th can help compensate for this but mostly the benefit of the 7th is to help lower the iats.

 

Tom is the tuner for gadget and made the boards for the ucon.

 

Yes that’s right, thank you. We had the orange injectors that came with the supercharger kit, but switched to a higher output injector, I think a Bosch injector? We had to buy adapter terminals to hook up the injector wires to the new injectors.

Do you have experience with installing the AEM wideband in the y pipe? In the instructions for installing that sensor, it says to have the sensor no further than 18inches from the collector. If you ran it at the y-pipe your A/F wouldn’t be as accurate given how much further downstream it will be. At least with the exhaust set up i have, it’s all slip in clamp on (minor exhaust leaks and possible ambient air contamination of the AFR sensor after these joints) and the y-pipe is further back near the tail of the trans. Not within 18in length specification. Side note: personally I dislike the exhaust this truck has, It sounds like an alien shape taking off. URD exhaust kit, cat back, that is, cat back from the bank 1 and bank2 cats, not the third in the middle that one is gone (actually all the cats are gone(long tube headers)). At a certain speed the muffler resonates and makes your ear drums oscillate/tickle. Think I will change it.

back to the CEL, I have been driving it around and it hasn’t poked it’s head up yet. Only done 20miles of various driving, but it usually comes on way before then. If this problem turned out to just be a dirty maf, it’s about time something went my way. Time will tell.

I got another question for you. I’m running long tube headers, with the air injection system still connected. Seeing as I’m catless, that system no longer serves A Purpose. Yea I could leave it alone, but don’t wanna look at it anymore and would like to at least cap off the air injection tubes that are part of the long tubes I have. Deleting the air injection system… (wise?/unwise?)

another question. From what I researched years ago, there are two types of superchargers for the tacomas with the 4.0L. One of them has the TRD badge, and the later version doesn’t. Both made by magnuson of very similar design. I have heard that the magnuson (no-badge) s/c makes more boost with the same pulley diameter as the TRD badged s/c. My other Tacoma has the “no Trd badge” magnuson s/c and made about 7-8psi on a 2.85” pulley, this TRD badged s/c makes about 7psi with a 2.6” pulley. Is this simply a difference in the internal s/c designs? If not I probably have an unmetered air leak, But only present under boost. I do have a vacc/boost gauge but it’s a AEM electronic one. I do not recommend buying it. Personally I like watching the analog needles bend. I’ll have to hook up a separate vaccum/boost gauge (analog) and see what kind of readings I get. Even if that check engine light never comes back, there’s something about this truck that just doesn’t feel right. Like it’s holding out on me, like there should be more there. My other truck was a manual, not an auto like this one. Maybe that has something to do with it. If you read this far I appreciate it. I know I ramble but It’s nice to have someone to bounce ideas off of, see if their experiences were any similar, Someone to keep me anchored from running on a Wild goose chase!

 

Also my CEL came back. Damn. Just code P2198 this time. I’ll try switching the 02 sensors and come back to ya