Change Leaf Springs and Shocks together...or does it matter?

I'm getting ready to change my rear shocks (at least) and I don't know enough about suspension to know for sure....


If I change the shocks, do I need to change the leaf springs at the same time?
I don't do any wheeling and I'm not lifted or heavily loaded, so if I do need to it will just be to make the old new again, not for any kind of upgrade.

OR

Does the suspension not work as a "system" like that and changing one doesn't necessarily mean you MUST change the other.



In my mind***, it seems like if the leaf springs are in good shape...which is to say not flat, or even worse, inverted...then there's no reason to change them. But as I said, I don't know enough about how the suspension components work together (or lack there-of) to know if putting, in my case, old leafs with new shocks will wear out the new shocks prematurely.

Any advice, comments, explanations on how things work, or pretty much anything else is appreciated and welcomed.

Thanks folks


***EDIT: It could be that what I'm thinking is biased by the fact that changing shocks is a half hour, 2 bolt, job...and changing leaf springs is considerably more, from what I've seen/read. So take what "I think" with a grain of salt lol.

 

No need to change if they’re good.

 

Just replace the shocks. . No need to touch the leafs unless you want specific leafs for a certain purpose. Also if the rear shocks need replacement it is likely the front shocks/struts also need or soon will need replacement. Might as well do front and rear same time.

 

.........Thank GOD lol. It's not that I'm not willing to change them...but if it's not necessary, I'm not going to.

As far as the fronts, that's a little more involved, so it will have to wait 'til a have more time...but I'll get there.

Thanks

 

Ok, here's a follow up question. What Bilstein shock would be comparable to the "stock" rears....like I said, no lift or wheeling or heavy loads/heavy towing. 5100 seems to be a popular number I see thrown around here...is that about stock-ish?

 

Yes, the 5100 is a good option that is close to stock-ish. The other popular option is to look for some low mileage take-offs from a 3rd gen in the buy/sell/trade ads.

 

Thanks to all of you.

Keep it coming, of course. Someone else might need more or different information...and I might too .

Thanks again.

 

From what you described, the Bilstein 4600's are a good choice They are readily available and will save you some money. From what I understand, the 5100's were on backorder and more expensive. Please note that the 4600's are not what come OEM on the offroad package and definitely not what comes on a sport package.

Here's a link to a recent thread that may help. Don't worry about the 4x4 reference.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4x4-shock-absorbers.781117/#post-27933557

 

I'm in a sport, DCLB, 4x4....if that matters.

You said "definitely not what comes with the sport package"...does that mean that the 4600s are beyond OEM or not as good/strong/etc as OEM?


Thanks for the info and link

Oh, and right now Amazon is showing 5100s in stock for $103. I didn't really compare anywhere else because my options for online buying are limited (No credit card....for Amazon, I can go buy gift cards and "gift" them to my own account lol)

 

That is a good price for 5100's. I guess the supply crisis is over. Oh yeah, mid-terms are coming up.

In the link from my previous post check out post #8 and then read post #27. They will answer your question about the 4600 shock compared to the stock or OEM shocks. Post #8 also has a pictue comparing the stock(OEM) shock next to the 4600 shock.

From what I understand the sport package has Hitachi shocks that are said to be pretty bumpy and stiff. Here is a link that covers that subject.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-a-sr5-trd-sport-trd-off-road-limited.446240/

Once last word, do your homework before you plop down any $$ for shocks or anything for you truck read as many threads on the subject(s). There are plenty out there. I actually find a google search will yield better results that will lead right back to TW.

 

Here’s what I wrote a couple days ago re 4600 heavy duty vs. 5100’s.
If you are not lifting your truck go with the Bilstein 4600’s. Internally they are basically identical to 5100’s but are made for non-lifted trucks. 4600 heavy duty and 5100’s have the exact same body size, piston size, rod size, same body and rod material and same internal nitrogen gas psi (360 psi). The only difference is minor internal valving differences. The exterior finishes are different and again the 5100 are for lifted trucks. The 5100’s have a slightly stiffer ride.
The heavy duty 4600’s cost a little less than 5100’s. So again if you are not lifting your truck the HD 4600’s are just fine.
I replaced my original shocks with HD4600’s and they are great. I do a lot of off road travel to get into my hunting and fishing spots. I tow a 3500 lb boat and do a lot of highway driving. The 4600’s perform well for all my different driving needs.
And lastly HD4600’s are recommended as replacement shocks for original shocks but are nowhere even near the same as oem shocks. 4600’s are a huge improvement over oem shocks.

 

Thank you gentlemen. When I get a free moment (more than 2 minutes to read and catch up), I have some reading to do. Post 8 and 27....got it.

So 4600s are better than OEM....when you said "not near" I assumed that meant worse than. I'll do some more reading, but it sounds like 4600s will be the way to go for me (non-lifted).

And I think the sport shocks (at least mine) are the same blue and yellow, whatever-the-hell brand that is, that you see on here a lot. Might be hitachi...no idea.

 

4600’s are basically the same as 5100’s except the the 4600’s are designed for trucks that aren’t lifted. OEM shocks are completely different and lesser quality than the heavy duty 4600.

 

Ok...last question. Hopefully........................for now

When I do this job, is it possible to do it without jacking up the back of the truck? OR....if I don't, will it collapse so much I can't get the new ones on anyway, so I'd have to lift it regardless. I wouldn't think the shocks would be holding up SO much of the weight that it would drop that much without them, but I don't know, obviously, or I wouldn't be asking .

Thanks for this and for everything guys.

 

I'd look into getting new springs for the front depending on your mileage... a little easier to replace a coil over versus just the shock as well

 

for the rears? I did mine a few weeks ago and I didn't have to lift the rear or even take the back tires off...

 

Yea that was the plan when I do the fronts. I'll be ordering them assembled, if that's possible. I think it's been said on here that someone (a member/vendor here maybe) will sell them together. If not, I'll have a shop put them together...I have no desire to try to build 2 rockets in my driveway...even with the right tools, I don't have the right know-how.

Sounds great. Thanks man.

 

you can look for 3rd gen take offs for your fronts...they fit no issues..if you want your front "lifted" a little, maybe an 1 1/4" or so, look for 3rd Gen Off Road take offs..the blue and yellow ones..

 

That sounds like a good plan. Sounds cheaper too. I don't mind spending if necessary.....but ya know.

Thank you sir