Footwell Lights That Don’t Suck

Drink some more coffee...

 

Ok, realized you were talking center console light....I think.

 

Más café...

 

I’m not sure I understand, I might need more coffee

driver from existing footwell light



to passenger.


From passenger extension would had to have been female to male rear pod. As the pod is a female connector.



I bought my kit for the tundra before it was offered for Tacoma and dim module as it already had a footwell light. I think a 74 base connector?

 

For Taco, no coffee. (cutting)

Two way splitter at module, extension to rear console Max Pod.

 

Yes

I put my two remainder footwell strips in the front of the Tacoma. (tapped cargo) I thought about doing the same rear console in the Tacoma but don't have (bottom) back seats, so figured it would be a waste. I just leave the upper back seats laid down for space to put me crap.

I also use the flush mounting bracket

 

So no module, just ON with unlock/lock and door open and no fade off...

 

Yeah, no module, no fade, but I like to be able to turn them off during day use and detailing etc.

 

Anyone have their lights start flickering? My overhead MESO leds are flickering too, but not the puddle pods. Not RPM dependent, but I don’t tend to notice it later in the day.

Going to check grounds when possible, but I thought I’d poll the community as well.

 

Anyone have an issue with the front foot well LED’s back side tape failing in warm weather? Wondering if anyone has attempted a more sturdy install idea instead of just tape to hold them in place

 

Did you clean the surface first with rubbing alcohol?

 

So I just finished installing the footwell lights and this is happening. Trucks locked, doors closed, and overhead interior light switch is off, but the interior lights are staying on

I bought the new overhead wiring harness that was recently released by @kmorgan3

Edit: I have unplugged everything and plug it back together to make sure the connections were solid. No change. With the footwell lighting disconnected from the harness the overhead lights remain dimly lit when in ‘off’ position, and fully bright when in ‘on’ position. When the footwell lights are connected, there is no change to the brightness between driving and having the doors open. Turning the screw position on the footwell module between + and - has not effect in changing anything

I have disconnected everything for now and put it back to stock as I am to frustrated to keep continuing

 

Unplug the PWM and just connect high mode. See what happens. There’s a chance the PWM is bringing the high mode to ground constantly and leaving it always on. If that doesn’t enslave the lights to the overhead switch, then the high and low mode ground wires are reversed which would also result in it being always on. Give it a shot and let me know and I’ll get you a warranty for whichever one is the problem.

 

Working deliberately here. I have installed the VLEDS switched footwell kit (so no A-pillar harness), the Meso V5 switchback mirror signals, and @daveeasa 's V5 T harness & LED headlight T harness. I started working on hooking up the V5 to the DRLs and began to wonder if I want to add puddles, what is recommended to pull this together? Is the diagram from the post below essentially it - forgo the puddle A-pillar harness in favor of a VLEDS 3-way splitter? I'm guessing the V5 DRL wiring has to come through on its own, so it plus a puddle wire through each door boot. Thanks for any tips/insight.

 

The most straightforward way to go is puddles + v5's through the door boots at the same time. Not massively more work than just the puddles. But I do have a way to deal with puddle injection of DRL too if someone needs that.

For the T, I defer to Kyle but I am pretty sure you don't need more than one. My footwell kit got stolen by a fraudulent change of address so I haven't done my own install of that one and I aborted on the v5's myself as I didn't like how they look.

 

Okay

so I’ve had Meso turn signal drl since 2018.

you can run V5 power to the interior door panel (not through door boot) although I’ve redone mine to run off the passenger for my own preference. I can turn them off with window lock. Was also my own wiring for my liking in 2019. Don’t feel like redoing now and how I want it.

would make more sense as Dave said when wiring puddles. And maybe more desired.

also I have my footwell light on my cargo light switch. All of my wiring was based on before other solutions.

you have a lot of options now to do pretty much what you want. If I was in your spot not I might have my set up different but I’m happy with what I’m at now.

try not to over complicate what you want. There is more than one way to accomplish everything

 

The puddles by default are 4 wires, ignition, parking light, dome neg and +12v. You need the last 2 for the puddle itself. You already have parking light and ignition in the door so it's kind of a waste but it's also cool to have them fully independent of OEM wiring. The v5's are 2 wire, red and white, red for DRL or ignition, white for parking light. So, with puddles and v5 harnesses you have 6 wires with parking light in each bundle, though you can send whatever you send and really, to get the v5 drl's exactly matching OEM LED you might prefer the low beam signal since the OEM LED headlights say bright C (DRL mode) with parking lights on until low beams are on.

As the 'spike notes, lots of ways to do this. But if pulling wire through the boot, provided it fits, more is better. I ran 12 gauge speaker wire at the same time so that plus puddles was enough, I yanked the v5 stuff after I decided not to proceed with them.

 

Can you elaborate on why the puddles have all 4 of those wires if you only need the last two? Is it just for other expandability like V5s and such? I have footwells and puddles, and I want to ditch the A-pillar harness. I’m trying to figure out how I should rewire the puddles and whether or not I actually even need all 4 wires on each of them.

already switched to the overhead console harness for the footwells, so if I could tap in up there for the puddles that would be ideal. I’m pretty sure caribe outlined it all for me at one point but it took a bunch of splitters and adapters and I’m not sure I really want to go that route.

 

^
Dave

I’m an amateur / novice but this is the way