Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

I adjust mine on vehicle in maybe 5 minutes per side. Loosen jam nut for the heim, pull the uca bolt, and lean the Uca out a bit and spin the heims and then bolt it back up. Do it without removing anything else

 

Anyone running DK tubular UCA with 35s? I have a cmr, pinch weld cut/hammered and fender liners cut up. Looking to avoid cutting fenders/flares but will if I have to. Also, wheels are 17x8.5 -25 offset

 

Thank you for this OP thinking of going bigger on my truck and didn’t know how much a pain it would be

 

Relocated spare tire hoist for more clearance. My 35 10.5 r17 was rubbing my diff

 

It takes me longer to shine my tires than to wash the entire truck

 

It will make its way back to its old home if you ever do hangers. Diff rub is a way of life. Lol

 

damn I thought I did some good lol

 

why is it that hangers allow it to slide forward? Do they allow more clearance as far as the space from hanger to other hanger?

I’m probably going to go with DRT fabrication hangers

 

The hangers are just a little tighter and since the tire is a circle, it moves forward where it was before relocating the spare tire hanger.

 

Would a spindle that increases track width by .75” work? planning on doing a spindle and don’t want to HAVE to run spacers, thanks

 

Anyone use the solo motorsports tundra rack?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/modified-tundra-rack-swap-preorder.625844/

 

Not from Solo, but the link shared above my post. Just received my boots, so I'm going to get those put on too.

 

did you need to notch the frame for the steering shaft? Have to shorten the factory steering shaft? Any other clearance issues?

 

Still need to actually tub, but tbh I’m not going to for a long time. I did so much heavy hammering for the 37’s that I briefly drove around the street that my 315/70/17’s on -38 wheels clear really well. There has been one time at full bump, turned almost full lock, that I heard a quick rub on the firewall but it wasn’t much at all. The truck has a very low lift up front with the 8112’s at their height out of the box. Here is my height to the front frame rails right at the sway bar bracket. Right at 22” I think I’m around 2” just a hair over 2” lift. These trucks do so well with 35’s especially lighter 35” wheel and tire combos. No regrets whatsoever. Would never want the truck to have a much taller lift & bigger than 35’s is a fun game to play if it’s not your sole vehicle and maybe you have a trailer. Hahaha. Pics to show my lift height FWIW. To note - I’m getting a fresh alignment in 2 weeks. It’s been a while! As I recall my castor is around +4 give or take on each side. TC UCA & marlin LCA brace kit only

 

How many degrees of steering do you lose with this setup?

 

I didn't do the work, I had a local friend knock it out while he was doing my gears, and front e-locker.

Still getting work done.

 

I know this is an older post but just wanted to point out that this is slightly oversimplifying the physics.
shopping carts have no caster angle but they have mechanical trail.
the oscillation that happens is probably due to compliance (or in this case, "wobble" of the bearings, or lack of in the bearings) and a moving contact patch.
this trail is what actually provides the stability of following the direction of travel.
shopping carts rely on trail to keep the wheels pointed the way you are pushing it.
caster angle is just one part of the equation that defines the trail. tire diameter and kingpin offset are others.
so something no one really talks about much is that you gain trail with the same caster angle when you go to a taller tire.

 

Fine... See the bike analogy

 

bikes typically have caster angle, and then they decrease trail by increasing offset (wheel axis is forwards of the headset axis)