Still in limp mode after 6 months

Ok so i literally cannot get the box apart i got the plugs and 12v power supply off and got to the bigger plug the 2a you where talking about gonna test it is it possibly the 2b plug gone bad??

 

I have access to Mitchell through the shop I work at, luckily they have OE diagrams for most 2nd gens as their redrawn ones are crap. I learned most of the electrical testing basics from watching Paul Danner's classes and his book applying it to real cars.
I've learned alot about Toyota's from helping people on here.

 

Ok so i get 9.5 v with key on is that normal from the 13 pin??

 

It should be the same as battery voltage if you are on the correct wire so unless your battery is dead that is low.

 

Nope isnt dead so not entirely sure why the voltage would be low would that mean anything??

 

See what your battery voltage is.
Also what do you have on pin 14 of connector 2A?

 

Ok so after putting 2b back i have 12 to the bw wire pin and 14 on 2a has nothing and 13 is still 9 but i have 12 on 2b now

 

Also b/w wire has 13v so is it possible i fixed it by jiggling stuff??

 

Just checked the module by abs stuff b/w has 13v when running and theres power on the ither parts too so i mightve partially fixed it

 

All the Blue/White wires on 2A and 2B should be at battery voltage.
Pin 14 comes from the EFI No2 fuse and feeds power into the junction connector and internally it ties Pins 13, 14, 15, & 18 of connector 2A and Pins 6, 9, & 10 of connector 2B together.

Make sure you are on the right pins, the connectors themselves have the pin numbers at the end of each row stamped into them although they can be hard to see.

 

Yeah im on the correct pins aswell as like i said they all now have battery voltage now im just wondering if i clear my codes will they stay cleared?

 

You may have, did you unplug 2A and see if there is any corrosion or burnt/discolored pins?

 

2a doesnt unplug its actually connected to the harness when i took off 2b though it looked perfect no dirt no burns no corrosion, there was still assembly paint marks just like above and stickers lol

 

Ah I see, I wonder if there's something going on in that junction. or with the wire coming from the EFI no 2 fuse.
Maybe pull the EFI No2 fuse just to be sure it doesn't have a burnt or corroded pin.

Here's the internal schematic of the 2A connector/junction.

 

Efi fuse has no burning or corrosion and honestly im not sure if there is a wiring issue im getting power now everywhere i should im gonna try and see if i can clear the codes if i cant ig ill fix my other car and then send my truck to atlanta to be fixed

 

If power is all good I would expect it to fix the P0031, P0037, P0102, & P1613 but I don't know if it will fix the P0113 or not.

 

Ill have to see when i can clear codes

 

The truck should run better without clearing the codes although you will still have a CEL and Trac Off light on.

 

Ill see tomorrow on the way to work lol

 

Gramps, I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned already even though Dm93 seems to have you covered.

When you have one fault code, it can trigger multiple other codes in the system from that one code. Even though there is nothing wrong with those parts of your truck. You might already know this, so ignore my ass.