Warming up the truck still necessary?

Cuz the fluids didn’t even have time to circulate. At least give it 10-15 secs and start driving.

 

he buckled up. construction workers don't buckle up...

 

Lol it takes me 30 seconds because I have to readjust all the mirrors, steering wheel and seat cuz my wife drives it to work...She on the other hand gets in it and hits the fucking afterburners the second her beautiful but crazy ass backs down the driveways all while making duck lips in the mirror and talking on her phone..

 

Nope.

 

That's the longest "ok boomer" I ever read.

 

6,000rpm is 3,000 ignitions per minute.

 

In the interest of learning something, can anyone who actually knows something allude to gas blow-by in the cylinders? I was under the impression that a cold engine revved and put under load will have more blow-by and wear because the piston rings and pistons don't expanded at the same rate as the block, as well as the oil not having had time to make a good seal. I was always in the "let the temp needle move" camp, but this is also my first modern vehicle, so my ideology may be antiquated.

 

Per cylinder.

 

I won’t argue if it’s needed or not but I always give it time to get warm before I drive especially in cold temps. Your engine is made of different metals plastics and rubbers. All these materials expand and contract at different rates. I also like to give the fluids a minute to circulate and come up in temp a little before I put everything under load. Do the same thing for every engine I own.

 

High loads / high RPMs is not what the 1st Post was about. Driving away in a sane manner and accelerating at a normal pace will warm an engine within a minute versus 10min+ of idling.

As a reference, the first tick mark on the temp gauge is about 140F.

 

This is so wrong, all the oil drains back into the oil pan, when you start it, the pump has to pick up the oil, then pump it to the extremity of the engine.......Nice miss information there pal.

 

That's 50 per second per cylinder.

 

In theory you could do some math, the volume of the total oil passages, against the output volume of the oil pump at idle the work this out. The trans I actually don't think you can hurt though, because all the clutches are oil actuated if oil hadn't reached them yet when you shift to D they just wouldn't shift.

 

So wrong, Say what you want, it's wrong. Gravity drips almost all of the oil back into the pan, the only anti drain is in the filter.

 

I might be completely wrong in my theory but I just feel better when I let my truck idle for 30 or so seconds before I take off.

 

Not necessarily a anti drain valve in the filter. On the 4.0 they're helping you out by mounting the filter upside down, it'll drain in about 5-10 minutes, less mess to clean up

 

I think he means “Start driving”.
It’s a common term used here in the south.

Actually it means different things depending on how it’s used.

“You boys about ready to take off”. = It’s quitting time.