FS: Fuse block mounts for behind the taillights $59

If you want to put a fuse block in the bed of your Tacoma, you can use this fuse block mount to keep it dry and free of dust and dirt behind the driver's side taillight. A mirror image version of this fuse block mount is also available for the passenger side.

I ran 10AWG to the back of my 2022 Access Cab & used a fuse block from there for various lights and accessories.



I started by looking at prefabricated project boxes but none fit my exact dimensions and all would have required extensive cutting for all of the holes I need. In the end is was easier to pre-fab what I wanted in cardboard and then print the fuse box with all of the holes right where I wanted them.




This fuse block housing was designed for a fuse block I found on Amazon


$17 WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Included
WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block that I got on Amazon. It is slightly more compact than the Blue Sea fuse block that I used in the cab. It has a negative bus which is handy for this location. The ground wire can be run back to a factory ground point located on the frame above the driver's side rear tire. Its' only about 3 feet away.

Here the fuse block housing is installed behind the driver's side taillight. I'm using existing holes for the bolts that hold this in place.




10AWG wire from front Aux fuse block



And starting to run wires from a switch panel in the bed to the new fuse block:


In addition to the 10AWG wire, I ran multiple wires to power lower amperage switches and relays. Here I'm wrapping that wire harness with multiple layers of sheathing. The copper pipe is just used to make it easier to add sheathing to the wound wire harness by running the wire though the pipe and the sheathing over the outside.

If you are going to the trouble of running primary power to the bed & will probably want a couple of wires for relays for rear lights, its only a few bucks more to run more wires than you currently need & future proof your work.




The fuse block housing was designed using FreeCAD software and 3D printed using a Prusa MK3S 3D printer:

Now with improved space for wires that connect to the fuse terminals.

I used these

$26 irhapsody 5 Pack 40/30 AMP 12V DC Waterproof Relay and Harness - Heavy Duty 12 AWG Tinned Copper Wires, 5-PIN SPDT Automotive Relay

water proof relays from Amazon



Once every thing is installed I add a cover to keep dirt and water out.



Note: new version has translucent cover so LED lights for blown fuses can be seen without removing the cover.

Also available printed in mirror image for passenger side.


For sale on Etsy
or by PM on TacomaWorld

Includes stainless steel mounting hardware and grommets and free US48 shipping.

 

Nice job!

 

Thanks!

This was another one of those projects where I couldn't find anything that fit exactly where I wanted & so I just made one that fit my need. And then I thought "with a little more effort I can make available to other Tacoma owners who might need the same thing".

 

I dig the solution! I am mounting an 8 position bluesea back there with a 4awg feed. Mine isn’t as user-friendly though . But I love not only people coming up with a great idea, but making it available to others. That fuse holder is good to 100A, so you could feed it with 1/0 gauge to use that full 100A (or 4 gauge for 35ish amps like me) if you wanted to. It also has a ground buss, which is a nice feature. For anyone who may not be aware, if you look behind the drivers side rear tire, on top of the frame, there is a factory grounding point. So you could run that same gauge wire down to it.

All in all, I really like this. If I hadn’t already done mine, I would be one of your first customers.

Now, if you really want to get really stupid, you can mount a GEP power distribution block on the other side of that sheet metal

Edit: Also, for anyone going this route, be sure to fuse the 10awg (or 1/0awg or whatever) within 18” of the battery as well. Fused accordingly to wire size and amperage you plan on pulling, whichever is less.

 

I love this and mentioned it to Johnny.

The problem with a GEP on it's lonesome is no ring terminal and a bit harder to replace fuses. The GEP and micro relays, however, is a great way to stuff more switching gear into a compact space and retain waterproofing.

 

Yeah, I was thinking more about a GEP in addition to this. Use this for the distribution (where GEP falls short) and then the GEP could handle relays. The issue is going to be space though. It starts getting too tall, and you hit the taillight. I’m sure there is a way around it that someone much more creative than me could come up with though

 

Newest version now has more space for wires that connect to the fuse block screw posts.

 

Great idea, for those looking for that kind of solution! My only recommendation would be to add a window to the cover, so that you can see the status leds on the block, without having to open it up.

 

That is a great idea! I could at least print the lid in clear plastic, which I have. It would be translucent not clear but would be good enough to see the LEDs.

So yeah, using "clear" filament: the cover is translucent enough to see the LED indicating a blown fuse.



I can easily do translucent fuse box covers going forward.

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

This is a really cool solution, nice work. Only downside for me would be running long wiring to anything I want to do that isn’t at the back of the truck. But, it surely is an option and I actually already own that same fuse block that I’ve never used because I never found anywhere I could mount it that I actually liked in any of my vehicles.

 

Yeah, the whole point of this location is powering stuff in the bed. I wanted redundant lights and accessory power in the bed so I used separate fuses for left and right sides:
1: Interior LED strip lights (right)
2: Interior LED strip lights (left)
3: Exterior LED Pod side light (right & left)
4: 12V cigarette adaptor & USB ports (right)
5: 12V cigarette adaptor & USB ports (left)
6: Rear lights in steel bumper

My suggestion for your unused 6 fuse block would be to put in the cab behind the break pedal. So only one wire is needed through the firewall instead of several.

 

Thanks. I’ll have to see if that doesn’t interfere with the manual trans pedal setup. That would save a decent number of wires through the firewall, although I’d still have quite a bit more than one to control all the things. Switch and relay outputs and such.

I’m going to look and see if I can bring wiring up in through the floor like the power tailgate lock kit does. If there’s a matching drivers side grommet, that would be great for my needs.

 

https://mavenspeed.com/products/radlok-connector-bulkhead

 

@switch this is an overkill idea of what you could do with a GEP distribution block. This is a 96 position, so it is more of a recessed mount, so not as idea as a 48 or 72 would be, but hopefully it helps you get an idea. This one also has almost 100 wires feeding into and out of it, so the box is little bigger than a normal person might need.

And if you want to see what’s going on inside so far:

and @daveeasa just so he knows some of the stupid things I do
This could be made to be watertight as well if you used cable glands on each hole I suppose, but I was aiming more for water resistant and just a place to stuff everything. If (when) water dies get in it, everything will be able to withstand it.

 

Double posted, sorry

 

No Worries!

 

@switch thanks for making this, just ordered one via etsy.

@daveeasa let me know this existed. Now I can go wild with stuff out back.

 

It’s really cool.

@switch , I wonder if I might be able to get you to make something weatherproof for my yellow box speedo corrector on my 2002 Tundra? It’s meant to route into the cab but the only time you’d ever futz with it is changing tire size so all it really needs is solid weatherproofing and it could be fine stashed on the frame rail.

 

I didn't think there'd be much interest in this but it is almost as popular as my engine bay mount. Can anyone tell me if this would fit in the 2nd Gen Taco?

 

Just picked mine up today from the shop. Will you please harass me till I answer the question? Hands frozen from cleaning out gutters, can’t go outside again.