Warming up the truck still necessary?

Oil clings to engine parts by way of oil additives. Take an engine apart. You will find a film on components that usually requires serious wiping and a cleaner to remove. This additive is added to prevent dry start cranking. It will push out if run too long without oil flow from the pump.

 

are the additives in the oil ? also im not too sure about amsoil it reminds me of avon of the car industry

 

You’ve just changed the subject. I was addressing the claim oil passages remain filled with oil. The link I provided addresses that.
To address your different point, true oil clings to surfaces. But you better have oil flow start soon or you will have engine damage, that surface film won’t protect for long.
The Amsoil link provides good information regarding the importance of oil flow on a cold start.

 

i just read the link.they do make a great point though “Thick, cold oil can fail to flow through the tiny screen openings on the oil pickup tube, starving the engine of oil for several vital moments before the oil begins to heat up and flow throughout the engine” -per amsoil website

 

I start and give the engine about 5-10 seconds bouncing off the rev limiters to get the piston rings fully seated. Then good to go! Emissions and oil dilution problems solved. Obviously make sure to do it in neutral

 

Yes, the additives are in the oil. Added during the refinement process.

I never read the link. I was just countering the post that was provided based on information from school and experience rebuilding a couple of engines over the years.

This is where multigrade oils come in to play. A

$52 0w20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w20 oil will have a viscosity index of zero when cold allowing better flow and a viscosity index of 20 when at operating temperature so the oil isn't too thin and flow too easily.

 

thus giving you better mpg and less wear on the engine?

 

Here, argue with this guy:
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/532/around-around-where-oil-goes-in-your-engine
“After lubricating the camshaft and the related components, the oil flows by gravity back down channels in the head and motor block to the sump, ready to begin another journey.”

 

To be clear, those are not oil passages. They are not on the high pressure (lubricating) side of the oil system. After lubricating the various components the oil leaks out of the bearings and from there it falls back to the pan by gravity.

It's worth noting that some engine components may be spray lubricated or receive drip oiling. They are not the major components we worry about wear in in these discussions

 

Multigrade is to allow oiling when the oil is cold and thick. Cold oil is still MUCH thicker than hot oil however a multi grade will be much closer than a straight weight.

A lower hot viscosity may provide better fuel economy. Its argued immensely as to if it increases wear or not.

Two different things

 

Brush off enough snow by drivers door to get in. Start truck, turn on defrost, turn on seats, turn on mirror defrost. Get out, shut door. Grab push broom from bed of truck. Sweep snow off starting with roof. Put broom in bed, grab scraper to remove remaining ice. Warmed up enough, leave.

 

Back to your original question.

It is undesirable to ask for max power from a cold engine. You should have the engine at full operating temperature before asking for high power levels and or high rpm.

You can however DRIVE it with cold oil, just drive it sedately. There is nothing wrong with turning the engine on and leaving, even in the coldest of climates oil pressure will be at normal in less than seconds. You can see this in the low oil pressure light on your dash

 

i actually tried that yesterday and today, there are exactly two stop signs and two lights (in the early morning there usually green) before i accelerate to merge on the freeway to make a 8 mile trip to work

 

i have only seen the low oil light turn on once , it was when i pressed the engine ignition switch and immediately put in drive (of course i only do that once i already warmed up my truck) i didnt give enough time to start ,the truck turned off and that low oil light appeared

 

I'm not going to let it warm up that much before driving. That being said I do let the engine oil, coolant, and trans all come up to temp before stressing things too much. Take it easy till it's nice and warm.
Scan guage 3 rocks.

 

yes i was about to say
picture lol

 

As someone who lives in the frozen tundra of MN, many times I warm my truck up for a bit before driving, when its -20 degrees out the oil can seem kinda thick (even though its not). Though this year I got a oil pan heater and a block heater. So there wont be much of a need for me to warm up my truck anymore.

$52 0w-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w-20 oil is rated down to -40C (-40F), but running a block heater and the oil pan heater should let that motor start and get up to temp real fast... and thats good for me when I want the heater on.

 

You could try taking out your drain plug after your engine has been sitting and measuring the amount of oil you get. Other than what’s in your filter you will find it’s all there.

 

Well you kinda do. If you add 6 qts and 5.5 come back out it’s pretty safe to say .5 qt is still in there. If you add 6 qts and you drain 5.9 well then… actually with your expert math skills you can probably figure that one out on your own.