What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

How do you remove the visor stickers? Hate them

 

Pre-Michigan winter Cosmoline RP-342 undercoating.

My first attempt, brushed off rust spots (primarily weld points), wiped residual dust off surfaces. Laid out tarp, PPE’d, and sprayed away. Holy $&@t I’m a mess. Dried quick, looks solid.

Tempted to add 2nd coat/touch-up if weather holds, not looking forward to it though!

 

Planning to do the 342 myself, NOT looking forward to it LOL

 

Pro-tip: just friggin pay someone else lol

 

If someone local used the stuff I would, locally its NHOU, Woolwax or Fluid film

 

Installed miller cat shield…pretty straightforward install

 

Flowmaster the system is fine. I ordered a flange repair kit 2.50 inch diameter. It will attach around the y pipe. To the flowfx system then I’ll be all set. But for right now my flange is too far gone to unbolt. I’ll cut em off. And use new s/s bolts.

 

Oh and another donut gasket. Any one have any in mind??

 

@Stg246 Let me start by saying, I did not remove the business card sleeve thing driver side. It didn't seem like an easy battle. As for the warning stickers, heat gun on low, keeping my fingers peeling the corner. Figured if my fingers didn.t cook, everything visor related would be cool. Corner started and pulled heat away and they peeled off like butter. No residue. Should have done this long ago, but i was worried about residue.

 

Thanks!

 

OEM exhaust gasket part # 90917-06076

 

Transmission fluid change, amsoil. Removed pan, cleaned magnets, cleaned inside pan, and emptied and reinstalled screen filter. Installed new gasket on pan, and replaced 5mm Allen overflow nut with a drain bolt.

Obd II port lacked a pin in location 13, so I used laser temp gauge and this was easy. Ambient air was 86° today, truck was in garage all night, started it up and since instructions stated that it takes about 10 minutes to get trans oil temp above 95 I laid under truck for 10 minutes checking temps every minute in 6 different locations of trans pan. Pan area under screen filter port heated quickest with an average temp 1 or 2 degrees hotter than the pans corners. All areas of the pan eventually reached 98° then I pulled the overflow plug. Oil streamed out as expected for what seemed like 2 minutes then finally started dripping , I replaced the overflow bolt at that point. Checked the temp after tightening bolt to 15 lbft, and was 107°. Victory.

I had to jump on the bike to O'Reilly's auto parts to pick up a short 15/16 socket, either I lost mine, or forgot how to use my deep socket in that tight space, didn't want to get fluid temps up right before the fluid change, this was the first bolt I dry loosened before removing any fluids, haha luckily.

Thumbs up to the TW write up on this process.!!

Bought a 3/4" waterline insulation noodle to do the bed to back of cab noise dampening tomorrow.

 

Thanks.

 

may need for newer models



removal of visor stickers:
heated the visor up with a small space heater, or

can use an iron by covering sticker with old tshirt
worked a corner up -fingernail-enough to start peeling slowly,
after sticker gone glue residue left so,

put a clean piece of t shirt over spot and ironed it for 15 - 20 seconds,
one sticker had more glue so re ironed with clean piece of shirt a couple more times till it looked good,

in real life you can not see the spot in photo

 

Ah, I see, a fellow Home Depot quart bucket fan for fluid changes lol. Way better than any oil pan I’ve ever used.

 

What’s with the drill bit??

 

Does the gasket just pop out and you pop the new one in?

 

Yep, the flange on the y pipe has a rounded extension portion that the gasket fits over and it'll stay in place while you bolt up the catback to the y pipe.

 

Pins the thermostat open on the trans so the fluid circulates fully through the trans cooler.

 

Wired up the DRL functionality of the Meso V5 mirror switchbacks.