What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

oops. LOL. sorry. dont worry.. the brake line junction for the rear lines is NLA.. i need to find a clean one.. because the OG one will not survive removal

 

I'll look tomorrow. Remind me mis day.

 

Mine did that, it's the gears in the cluster, I used some white lithium grease. They are the cause of the cable breaking, went thru two of them before I figured it out.
The gears cause the cable to bind and then it breaks.

 

Thanks Dan. My money is definitely on the trans seal (9031140007). Blasted thing is so easy to damage getting that tcase to line up. If you end up replacing that one and have the

$101 OTC Race and Seal Driver Set,10-13/64" L

OTC Race/Seal driver kit, it's #5 in the kit.

No experience at all with the rear diff and that seal.

 

Excellent. Great to hear. I will tear the screaming banshee apart!

 

Can you take the carrier out of a diff with ADD and plug it right into a diff with manual hubs? Or is there more to it than that?

 

Carrier?

 

Found my answer: Never been into an IFS 4x4 front diff, so it looks like the construction of the diff is quite a bit different than I'm used to. On our rear diffs, the "carrier" is this:

 

Way to go UPS! From Utah to California then back to Utah and now on its way back... Guess my wiring harness is going to wait.

 

Liked. Just so that I could unlike. What a pain...

 

First time in months I’ve had time to fiddle with this thing. On the cusp of finishing the work lights and toolbox lights that I started sometime in 2021. Or was it 2020?

 

Holy hell. I read this and I swear my mind just can't wrap around it. It's like reading Einstein speak... Can one of you make this a little easier for me lol. The driveshaft from wholesaleimportparts has some generic looking CB so I'm swapping it out for the spicer which has been sitting on a shelf for a couple of years. Have no issue with swapping CBs, its this center line business that's screwing me up.



Out with the generic, in with the spicer...

 

1. Make sure the taco doesn't have anything in it while you're adjusting the CB.
2. 3 joint driveshafts have 2 sections. The front section connects to the transfer case. The rear section connects to the diff.
3. Make sure the CB is perfectly square to the front section of the driveshaft (sorry if "square" means nothing to you, but being a woodworker I find it's a better word than "perpendicular". Here's a description: https://www.outoftheww.com/projects/what-does-square-mean)
4. Adjust the CB so that it's centered in the housing front-to-back. Within 1mm.

If the housing isn't square to the front section of the driveshaft, this could be tough.

 

Its the lining up and the entire .04in which is literally nothing. I'm sure it will be a little more apparent once I have it in place on the vehicle. There is also the dirt marks from the stock CB. That might also help with lining up.

Thx for the info and explanation.

Unloading the vehicle though, ouch. Shell and rack are definitely staying on, no room to manuever it off the vehicle while in the garage.

 

Yep, big difference in quality.

Spicer CB


Generic POS

 

Eh even if it's not 100% square, I'm sure it'll be fine. I've never checked that spec and it's been fine with a whole buncha miles and my CB is still on the truck in 1 piece with no vibes.

 

Installed a supercharger and new steering rack this last weekend

 

Looks like your spicer is already in the housing. I think the manual is talking about replacing just the bearing and keeping the old housing. I wouldn't worry about centering it.

And like Ian said, just eyeball it for square when you install the new one. I think they just wanted to make sure people weren't trying to line it up with the rear section, or splitting the difference. If it vibrates, you can always adjust it.

 

What supercharger kit is that, the LCE? It's so low-profile, I had to look like 10x before I even saw it. What a beauty!