1GR-FE Bank 1 VVTi issues P0011 P0012 & P0016

Going to act like there was never a problem, as soon as they arrive.

 

Finally have a minute to update.

The new correct part (15330-0P010) arrived last week from Toyota. Got it installed late Sunday night, cleared the codes with my new OBD reader, fired it up and the CEL came back immediately. It ran fine, so I let it warm up a bit and cleared the codes again with my old ScanGauge and all good. Im assuming that was just an error on my part with the new NT630 code reader I ordered but idk.. Between a good test drive Sunday night and a 50 min round trip commute yesterday I feel pretty confident I met the trip logic if the problem still existed.

To recap, the old OCV ohmed out at 7.9 Ω which passes the 6.9 to 7.9 Ω test, but would not move when powered. I could manually move the spool valve however.

A few pics of the old OCV vs new. The new was 7.8 ohms right out of the box.
Old OCV resistance


New


Old vs new. Looks like the return spring was getting weak


New OCV fully closed


New OCV fully open (9v battery)

 

Well done.

 

Great job man.
Nice of you to include the Open/Closed pics.

 

Thanks. Hopefully this thread will help someone out in the future.

 

Good job !!

 

Jumping in on this thread. I have a P0018 error so I'm thinking (hoping?) its the same issue. Its a 2011 Taco v6. My question is can someone help my by showing/locating where said sensor is? I see from the diagrams "about" where it is but when I look for it I can't seem to readily locate it. Also (and please no comments about my ignorance) but given that this part appears to be on or around the top end I assume I don't have to drain the oil first. I appreciate you folks and your willingness to help.

 

You have to take the top engine cover off to see them, I'll try to get you an actual picture this evening when I get off work.

 

No need to drain oil. The sensor is located just next to the OCV itself. OVCs in red, position sensors in blue. Note throttle body lower right to orient yourself.

Make sure to put some oil on the oring and clean any debris out from the area before reinstalling.

 

Thanks folks. I'll work on it tomorrow but wanted to acknowledge the assistance.

 

Folks, So I was able to remove the OCV... sort of. What I got was the "top" portion of it. It looks like the actual body of the valve is stuck inside the block. The pix below shows around where it appears to be separated. My question is is it possible that on a 2011 its actually several different parts? Or is it that the body has just mated so firmly with the block that its not coming out? I've tried tapping it pretty hard and its not budging (actually chipped a piece off).


FYI, I pried the rusted housing away after I got it out, it was crimped around better when I pried it out and it separated.

If its really one piece I'll continue to tap away and see if I can free the remaining parts from the block. If not, well, so much for that, looks like I'll be buying snows for the Camry

 

@sbrennan The OCV solenoid on the single vvti 1GR-FE engine is definitely a single piece. Yours snapped off and based on the amount of rust seen on the bracket...rust probably compromised the integrity of your solenoid.

 

Damn.. Id imagine its a lot of corrosion around the opening, similar to what my position sensor looked like in the pic above.

Id assume that shoulder is enough to keep it from falling into the block, but still Id be real careful with that removal. Snap a few shots when you do get it out

 

@SUMOTNK and @SR-71A Thanks for the confirmation. At least I now know I didn't screw it up by not asking y'all this question before I started. I guess I'll work on it a bit more and see what I can come up with but it really looks like its a "metal mating with another metal" kinda thing. I was going to try some heat but given the proximity to other flammables I decided against. I'll take a pix of what it looks like now. The "flange snapped off whilst I pinged it with a thin blade and small hammer so you can see the inside where the metals seemed to fused. Wild crap, if it didn't piss me off as much as it does I'd think it was kinda cool to see. Once you see the pix I'd love to hear ideas about how to get it free (aka "un-marry" the metals)

Also, I said this before but I don't think folks always say it enough so I'm saying again... I'm appreciative of everyone's feedback and advice

 

I dont know the after effects.... but I would think about spraying a shit ton of PB blaster into the OCV solenoid cavity. I'm guessing the PB blaster will eventually drip into the cylinder head and mix with motor oil so you'll probably want to flush everything thoroughly.

I agree. I've seen rusted metals "bond" (LCA eyelet and bushing sleeve) and thats probably what youre experiencing.

....or pull the cylinder head. The remaining piece of the solenoid is just pressure fitted at this point.

 

Waiting on the pictures. I had a similar scenario, years ago.

 

There are some dings around the block itself but hopefully I can keep those to a minimum. I don't think (?) those are a o-ring surface anyhow as I believe I'm seeing the o-ring that seals the solenoid interior to the block fitting. Nevertheless I'll clean that surface up when (if?) I get this SOB out.

 

Dings are fine. PB blaster or any other penetrating lube. Doesn't need much. Then tap the "flat" edge to rotate it one direction a little. Then the other "flat" edge to rotate it the other direction. Add a squirt of penetrant again. Repeat. It should help it on the O-ring and make it then easier to get a screwdriver between the lip of the actuator and the head.

 

Folks, an update for those that contributed to this thread (thanks again BTW) and for others that might search for this.

So despite my efforts I wasn't able to pry the housing away from the block nor tap it on the edge enough to get it to "spin" (wiggle back and forth) to eek it out. So after the proper swearing, my neighbor came over (likely to save his children from learning a new set of words) and with an easy-out and a set of vice grips attached to a slide hammer we literally popped it out on the first (very light) tap. If you look at the photo you can see the threads from the easy-out.

Probably should have thought of that process first .

So now I'll order the replacement part. Does anyone have the part number by chance and, is there a forum vendor or two I should check to see if I can get it from? It is a 2011 V6 and this is the drivers side, although I'll take the PN for both sides, just in case.