TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Gonna be emailing you for that canned tune and then customizing it for the 21 Tundra here in the next month!

 

So we can finally get a little more aggressive on the wife’s 4runner tune you say

 

Great. Got a Cylinder 5 misfire the DAY that I want to take this thing to get smogged. I swapped out the coil for my old ones and no dice, same thing. It's been a while since I did the spark plugs and have some put some miles on this thing since. I hope that's all it is. If not this is going to get really expensive really fast.

155K on the clock.

 

Check the injector too. Run some redline fuel system cleaner through it, change fuel filter as well.

 

I just did because I found it oddly curious that it started running like shit the moment that I changed the hose routing to the FPR, so when I inspected the injector connector closer I found that one of the wires came dislodged out of the connector. I put it all back in and it's holding fine. As soon as I fired it up, problem solved. Now I gotta run the monitors all over again so they can clear and then I can smog it. Oy...

 

Ah in that case you probably need to retune

 

I may make a dedicated thread about this, but y’all are the biggest motor experts on this forum anyhow so…

My girlfriends 2012 R56 Mini Cooper (non turbo, base model) burns about a quart of oil every 1k miles. Not a ton but I’d like to stop it if I can as she’s horrendous with maintenance.

• I checked the rubber PCV valve and it’s clean and not ripped or anything.
• Coolant looks dark, but I know BMW/Mini used dark blue stuff from dealers and it doesn’t have any overheating problems or anything, nor dropping coolant level.
• no CEL and it just passed the OBD2 smog in CA last week.
• Oil looks sooty pretty fast after a change.

I’m thinking it’s the piston rings that may be stuck or built up with carbon.
Just watched a YouTube video where a guy used Berrymans B12 on a Toyota Corolla and it went from burning 1.25qt oil every 300 miles to every 1k miles.
https://youtu.be/EG70jHiT-S0
https://youtu.be/84MylatwpN8


Think I may try to run a can of B12 through a tank of gas, and put a bottle of cleaner in the oil pan to see if I can clear some crud.
If that doesn’t help, I’ll try the method he used in the video (much more involved, soaked the pistons/cylinders in B12 for 24hrs.

Anyone have suggestions on how to stop oil burning without breaking the bank ?
Additives to use in the fuel or oil?
I’d like to not have to tear the engine apart and replace pistons or rings, I do not have the time to do so, nor the money to pay to have it done at the moment.

 

I’d also highly consider an engine flush with one of the big name manufacturers like amsoil etc…..pour it in the oil and idle it for 15 min then change the oil immediately.

 

Could also be leaking valve stem seals. Miles on the motor? Stuck rings are pretty unlikely unless the car sat for a looooong time

 

Like 102k if I remember correct.
The car cat have sat when she went to college for 4 yrs.. maybe drive once in a while. I’ll double check.

 

Something like
Amsoil engine & transmission flush ?

 

If it sat for years you definitely could have rings stuck. Maybe time for an Italian tune up haha!
When you park a car it is highly likely that at least one valve will stay open somewhere. Leave it parked long enough and condensation could build rust on the valve stem (just like the ring lands). That rust can compromise the stem seal when you start driving it again

 

she said it didn’t get driven semi-frequently. Not a ton of miles but It didn’t sit for multiple years or even 1 in storage or something.

May do a compression test real quick but I’m lazy unless it’s a Tacoma
Maybe order a borescope and take a look inside the cylinders too while I’m at it.

edit: it’s been driven daily for 18 months or so. Had the leak for at least the last year, since I’ve known her.

 

I believe it is just called engine flush……definitely the kind that you pour into the oil and idle for 15 min then immediately do an oil change.

 

No I'm totally good to go.

Just re- running the truck so everything can clear then I'll take it in.

 

Prob just referring to the FPR mod change but glad you go tthat figured out. im due for a smog soon as well.

 

Oh I gotcha (and him). I just run it either way with the same tune. Once I'm done I just re- arrange the hoses and it's good to go. I can't remember how Justin explained it to me when it is not FPR connected vs when it is but I definitely notice a huge difference in the way it runs when it has the FPR hooked up vs. when it does not so I opted normal running condition to be with the FPR.

 

Having some trouble with urd long tube install. The driver side will not go in, I have the steering shaft separated and the rear header studs removed and it still hits the upper portion of steering shaft that goes thru the fire wall. Any ideas? I looked thru a few threads but didn't see anything helpful.

 

Try it from the underside? I haven't personally ever dealt with headers on this truck so I can't say one way or another what will work, so maybe my suggestion is moot if the underside is worse than the top side. From what I recall on these trucks you have to finagle headers around though.