Techstream Brake Bleed - need some details/help

I picked up a techstream to try doing the ABS brake bleed.
I'm a little confused by the instructions.
First step seems to be to bleed all brakes, with a normal bleed.
2nd says to go to FR or RR and do the 2nd bleed, which activates the ABS pump. I'm not clear if that should just be one of the two, or if I'm supposed to do both.
3rd step says to connect a tube to ANY line. Press the brake pedal and hold it. Loosen the bleeder, and press next for the next step. I hear a click, but no fluid moves. And I'm not sure if I'm supposed to do this on all 4 wheels, or just choose one.
I think that is the last step..

So basically, step 2, is that one or both?
And step 3, is that 1 or all 4? And should the step where you click next and it counts down for 4 seconds be doing anything? As I said, step 2 it definitely moved a lot of fluid.. Step 3, nothing.

Thanks for any help.

 

I found the service guide about doing this, and now understand it a bit better.
Step 2, still not sure if it's one or both, but I did both.
For the 3rd step, I was doing this by myself, using a board to hold the pedal down. And, I think I drained all the fluid from the line, before clicking "next" on the techstream, so it wasn't doing anything. I think I need to be pushing the pedal down, during that 4 second countdown. And, I need to do it to all 4. I think at that step, I'm forcing fluid through the solenoid for each line.
And I forgot to mention the very last step above, which is another standard brake bleed on all 4.

 

Basically if it doesn't work I repeat, then always finish with a manual bleed.

I usually have an apprentice follow the tech stream while I bark at them from below.

The manual shows RF LF then RR then LR.

It's conveluted and stupid, it's not you. The hybrids are 5x worse. Absolute garbage to understand.

As long as you get a good boost and pedal push on each wheel you're good.

I usually finish with a proper bleed.

Are you having a brake pedal issue? Did you replace the accumulator? I never do this process unless there's a new accumulator or major issues.

 

I have a soft pedal.. But I bought the truck used, and it has always been like this. (I bought it about 3 years and 35k miles ago. Truck had about 90k miles on it when I bought it). I cannot lock up my brakes on dry pavement. But... I have the camper rig in my forum photo.. The truck weighs almost 7k lbs. So... Maybe the brakes are as good as they can be.

When I bought the truck, a toyota dealer had just done a huge 90k service on it, which included new brake pads and a fluid change. Then a couple weeks ago I changed rotors and pads. Adjusted the drums. Got a pressure bleeder and changed the fluid.. and did get a section of bubbles out of my rear passenger line.. No change in performance.

I saw a suggestion to go to a gravel road and slam on the brakes a few times to activate the ABS, and see if that makes the brakes feel better. And, it did.
So, that leads me to believe, maybe there was air in the ABS system somewhere. Figured it was worth a try.

 

I also picked up TS for this purpose. But IMO the only real value of it is to cycle the ABS module to refresh the fluid inside it. Otherwise, a standard manual or Motive power bleed for each line should be the ticket. I will look into this when I do the job to jump to the ABS part and skip the rest.

 

I had recently changed my fluid the regular way (well, with a pressure bleeder) a couple weeks ago.. And during this techstream one, when it activated the pump, the fluid that came out was really cloudy.. So, definitely some old fluid in there that a normal bleed didn't get. (what I called step 2).

And in what I called step 3, I think that one is probably important, too.. That's where I believe we're forcing fluid through a valve that's usually closed for each wheel, and purging those lines. I don't know, I didn't do it properly yesterday..
I'm heading out now to give it one more shot.
(I don't actually expect it to make any difference.. I think this is just how tacoma brakes are)

 

Agree, Tacoma brakes kind of suck for pedal feel. You can help a little by snugging up the rear adjusters. I don't follow the official procedure on that... leaves the shoes too loose, IMO. I try to adjust them a few clicks tighter every few months or so.

 

Well yeah.. Now I can confidently say.... This is just how tacoma brakes are.

 

To be fair, you are super overloaded per your posts Also go back and double check the drum adjusters / give them a few more clicks like Raylo said

 

I know.. The trucks a bit overweight, heh.
I lifted the rear wheels off the ground and adjusted the drums a couple weeks ago.. Tightened until I could just start to hear dragging. Left them like that.

 

I tried to find the answers to this a long time ago but never located the full set of instructions. Can anyone share either the steps from the manual, steps for TechStream, or both? I'd like to find the 100% by-the-book correct way to do this someday just as a sanity check.

I don't recall which TechStream version I have but it's v14 or something from memory. Used it to program some keyfobs and reset TPMS fine but feels like mine was missing the ABS stuff. Very weird.

 

2010 Toyota Truck Sienna FWD V6-3.5L (2GR-FE)
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Brake Bleeding Service and Repair
SERVICE AND REPAIR
BRAKE: BRAKE FLUID: BLEEDING
HINT
If any work is performed on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air out of the brake system.
NOTICE:
Wash the brake fluid off immediately if it adheres to any painted surfaces.
REMOVE COWL TOP PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY OUTER FRONT See: Steering and SuspensionSuspensionSuspension Strut / Shock AbsorberService and RepairRemoval and ReplacementFront Shock AbsorberRemoval
FILL RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID
Fluid:
SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3
NOTICE:
Perform the procedure after confirming the sub-tank at the upper of the master cylinder assembly is filled enough.
BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Connect the vinyl tube to the bleeder plug.
(b) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal depressed (*1).
(c) At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal (*2).
(d) Repeat (*1) and (*2) several times until all the air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(e) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.
Disc - Torque : 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 73 in-lbf)
Drum - Torque : 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(f) Repeat the above procedure to bleed the air out of the brake line for each wheel.
BLEED MASTER CYLINDER
NOTICE:
When the air is bled from the master cylinder (3rd chamber), be sure to run the engine.
HINT
If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air out of the master cylinder.
(a) Run the engine at idle.
(b) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper bleeder plug.
(c) Open the brake caliper bleeder plug or wheel cylinder bleeder plug.
(d) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the master cylinder (3rd chamber) bleeder plug with the pedal held down (*3).
(e) At the point when the fluid stops coming out, tighten the master cylinder (3rd chamber) bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal (*4).
(f) Repeat (*3) and (*4) several times until the air in the master cylinder is bled out.
(g) Tighten the master cylinder (3rd chamber) bleeder plug.
Torque : 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(h) Tighten the brake caliper bleeder plug or wheel cylinder bleeder plug.
Disc - Torque : 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 73 in-lbf)
Drum - Torque : 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Connect the vinyl tube to the bleeder plug.
(b) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal depressed (*5).
(c) At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal (*6).
(d) Repeat (*5) and (*6) several times until all the air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(e) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.
Disc - Torque : 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 73 in-lbf)
Drum - Torque : 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(f) Repeat the above procedure to bleed the air out of the brake line for each wheel.
BLEED BRAKE ACTUATOR (w/ VSC)
NOTICE:
After bleeding the air from the brake system, if the height or feel of the brake pedal cannot be obtained, bleed the air from the brake actuator assembly with the Techstream by following the procedure below.
(a) Depress the brake pedal more than 20 times with the ignition switch off.
(b) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3, then turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
NOTICE:
Do not start the engine.
(c) Turn the Techstream on and select "AIR BLEEDING" on the screen.
NOTICE:
* Refer to the Techstream operator's manual for farther details.
* Perform air bleeding by following the steps displayed on the Techstream.
(d) Perform air bleeding according to "Step 1: Increase" on the Techstream display.
NOTICE:
Make sure that the master cylinder reservoir tank does not become empty of brake fluid.
(1) Connect a vinyl tube to either one of the bleeder plugs.
(2) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug connected to the vinyl tube with the pedal depressed (*7).
(3) When fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal (*8).
(4) Repeat (*7) and (*8) until all the air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(5) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.
Disc - Torque : 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 73 in-lbf)
Drum - Torque : 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(6) Repeat the above procedures for the rest of the wheels to bleed the air from the brake
line.
(e) Bleed the air from the suction line according to "Step 2: Inhalation" on the Techstream display.
NOTICE:
* Bleed the suction line by following the steps displayed on the Techstream.
* Make sure that the master cylinder reservoir tank does not become empty of brake fluid.
(1) Connect a vinyl tube to the bleeder plug at the right front wheel or the right rear wheel and loosen the bleeder plug.
(2) Operate the brake actuator assembly to perform air bleeding using the Techstream (*9).
NOTICE:
* The operation stops automatically in 4 seconds.
* At this time, be sure to release the brake pedal.
(3) Check that the operation has stopped by referring to the Techstream display and tighten the bleeder plug (*10).
(4) Repeat (*9) and (*10) until all the air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(5) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.
Disc - Torque : 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 73 in-lbf)
Drum - Torque : 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(6) For the rest of the wheels, perform air bleeding in the same way as stated in the above procedure.
(f) Bleed the air from the pressure reduction line according to "Step 3: Decrease" on the Techstream display.
NOTICE:
* Bleed the pressure reduction line by following the steps displayed on the Techstream.
* Make sure that the master cylinder reservoir tank does not become empty of brake fluid.
(1) Connect a vinyl tube to either one of the bleeder plugs.
(2) Loosen the bleeder plug (*11).
(3) Using the Techstream, operate the brake actuator assembly, completely depress the brake pedal, and hold it.
NOTICE:
* The operation stops automatically in 4 seconds. When performing this procedure continuously, an interval of at least 20 seconds is required.
* When the operation is completed, the brake pedal goes down slightly. This is a normal phenomenon when the solenoid opens.
* During this procedure, the pedal seems heavy, but completely depress it so that the brake fluid comes out from the bleeder plug.
* Be sure to keep the brake pedal depressed. Never depress and release the pedal repeatedly.
(4) Tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal (*12).
(5) Repeat (*11) to (*12) until all the air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(6) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.
Disc - Torque : 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 73 in-lbf)
Drum - Torque : 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(7) Repeat the above procedures for the rest of the brakes to bleed the air from the brake line.
(g) Bleed the air from the brake line again according to "Step 4: Increase" on the Techstream display.
NOTICE:
* Bleed the brake line by following the steps displayed on the Techstream.
* Make sure that the master cylinder reservoir tank does not become empty of brake fluid.
(1) Connect a vinyl tube to either one of the bleeder plugs.
(2) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug connected to the vinyl tube with the pedal depressed (*13).
(3) When fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal (*14).
(4) Repeat (*13) and (*14) until all the air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(5) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.
Disc - Torque : 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 73 in-lbf)
Drum - Torque : 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(6) Repeat the above procedures for each brake to bleed the air from the brake line.
(h) Finish "AIR BLEEDING" on the Techstream and turn off the Techstream.
(i) Disconnect the Techstream from the DLC3.
(j) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR
(a) Check the fluid level and add fluid, if necessary.
Fluid:
SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3
INSTALL COWL TOP PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY OUTER FRONT See: Steering and SuspensionSuspensionSuspension Strut / Shock AbsorberService and RepairRemoval and ReplacementFront Shock AbsorberInstallation

 

Mine didn't have the "utility" button, which is how you get to brake bleeding, when I was trying to use an old 32 bit computer. I installed it on a newer one, w/ the 64 bit drivers, and then it worked. But this is a really common issue, and people keep trying different drivers and different versions of techstream to get it working..

I am on an older version of techstream, which works like a 5000 day demo. The one where you click a little crack file to connect to the vehicle (the newest version of techstream) didn't work. But I have to admit, I never tried the new version on my newer computer where I got it working.. So, 32 bit computer, neither old or new techstream showed the utility button. Newer computer, w/ old version of techstream did work. (I can't tell you the version at the moment.. I'm away from that computer).

I work in IT, so trying version after version after version is something I'm used to.. If you're not.. Don't give up. It feels like you keep doing the same thing over and over expecting different results. That usually means your crazy. But it could also mean, you work in IT....

 

Hmm that is very interesting, thanks. I am also in IT so doing repetetive iterations is nothing new to me. I'll give that a go, cheers.

Still curious if anyone has the documentation on specific bleeding procedure for the OffRoad with the electronic booster or what not. I have a bunch of links to old threads but doesn't seem like any of them are in agreement. Link below is to my knowledge the best/most accurate one I could find and I'm still not sure it holds true:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ssue-trd-off-road.599796/page-3#post-25653390

Edit: Sorry I didn't see the other reply quoted below. Will read through that and compare to what I said above, thanks for sharing!

 

The instructions I posted are specifically for the ABS system bleed.. which is different than normal.

For the electronically brake boosted trucks, I believe you just start it. Fill your fluid reservoir. Connect a tube to the bleeder and loosen it. Press and hold the brake pedal for no more than 100 seconds. The pump will automatically pump the fluid through. Don't need a techstream to activate it. That's what I've read. My truck is a base, so it's not something I've done.


Edit, I read the instructions you linked to, and yeah.. That's the basic bleed for your truck.

 

you need better brakes. Weight is the biggest killer on these trucks. at 7klbs you need more brakes. I went T4R setup ten went to a willwood and now have Stoptech F/R. the truck stops way better but still had some trouble. You may never get a good break feel until you change up your setup at least better pads and rotors to start, steel lines then decide if you want to go all in on better brakes.

 

your correct on the E booster. it does all the work for you. I added speedbleeders as well to mine. loosen then pedal no risk of air back in. Or you can press the pedal down as the OP did and loose off/on but no risk of air. nice add if you swap them in.

 

I put on the steel lines, new stoptech slotted cryo rotors, some super duty truck pads that are supposed to be very grippy. And adjusted the drums. None of it made a difference. I guess it's marginally better, but not much considering all I changed.

I currently have 16" wheels, but might think about going to 17" and upgrading the brakes, whenever I decide to get new tires.. It's not horrible.. I get thrown forward in my seat if I slam the brakes. It just rolls to a quick stop, though, w/out ever locking up or activating the ABS. (unless it's wet or gravel, etc, then ABS definitely works).

 

Dare I delve back into the stock drum arguments. But I had the same shitty feel. I am way overweighted also, but with a Tundra master, booster, rear disc and GX 460 front brake disc and rotors I can lock up 37s. My point in this post is…I too had some serious struggles getting the ABS to purge. I use Techstream as well. I thought good enough was the best I could do but only realized how strong the brakes would get when the ABS preps for a rollover in hard turns. When you hear the pump prime and then your brakes are amazing. This was my key that I had air trapped in the system.

 

Well that's frustrating, because mine definitely get better after the ABS has been working.
But I put about 2 quarts through the system the past two days, at least 10 ABS techstream bleeds.. No change.
I'm done for now, heh.. But maybe I'll give it another go sometime.

I think we need to get some barium in the lines and look at it w/ an xray..