Broke down on road. Truck just stopped running. (Formerly a HELP post, now a Getting It Towed post)

120A is good.

 

X2

 

Yeah thanks to that dat'gum switch I had to break out my brandnew 4yr old tow strap for first time.....and call a friend with a chevy.......

At least until I figured out to let it cool for an hour and half before putting in a new fuse.....

Now I keep a backup $20 switch off ebay in glove box along with efi relay, start relay, and open circuit switch(fuel pump relay).......

With that switch I could steal any your trucks without a smartkey.....
takes less than minute.....

 

I’ve never had any of those relays or switches go bad before, my fuel pump on the other hand has gone bad twice on me, once going down the highway and completely stopped and rolled to the side

 

I didnt realize you need to replace that switch at maybe 150k from factory....
and every 100k after that.....

A lot of juice goes through that switch.......thousands of cycles......
.....a brown out past that switch could be bad for a number of reasons.....

 

Another timing belt vote.

 

Is it cranking faster than normal?

 

Cr

cranking at normal speed/intensity/sound.

 

Silver taco can you please post the picture of the part and number?

 

Thanks all for the input. I had my wife pick me up. Looks like it’ll be AAA for me in the morning. I’ll update the post once I hear from the mechanic.

 

Buel- maybe a clogged or bad fuel filter?

 

95-04 TOYOTA 4RUNNER AVALON TACOMA IGNITION STARTER SWITCH USED 84450-41010 OEM | eBay

84450-41010 | eBay

Or if you got to have it now.....

Duralast Ignition Switch LS765 (autozone.com)

 

thats what I’m hoping for. Potentially important detail: yesterday on my way to work, I ran as low on fuel as I have in years. Reserve light didn’t go on, but I expected it any minute. I usually never let it get below quarter tank because I live 30 minutes from the nearest gas station, but a miscalculation on my part meant I basically coasted to the gas station yesterday. If there was any debris living in the bottom of my tank in the last few years, it might have been low enough to factor in. Could also be coincidence…

 

If you haven’t ever changed the fuel filter, I found it to be an easy DIY. Then again I have no rust and I don’t know where you’re located. Even with no rust, I still used a line wrench and didn’t rush the process.

 

Running the tank low or on empty can burn the fuel pump up, especially if it’s an old pump.
The fuel around the pump acts as a cooler for the fuel pump so it doesn’t over heat

 

Minimal rust. Central California truck all its life. I prefer to DIY when I can but since I’m having it towed to a shop for a diagnosis I’ll probably have them do it if that’s what it turns out to be.

 

A lot of mechanics say consider 1/4 tank empty for an import with an in tank fuel pump....
there's no quicker way to test an old pump.......

Denso's are unusually high pressure to begin with......

 

I say clogged fuel filter !! Or the sock on the pump is blocked with rust and dirt.

You did fill the tank when you made it to the gas station ?

 

Just got a call from the shop. Timing belt is broken. Have to wait until Monday to find out if that caused any additional damage.

 

It didn't, rest assured there. The 5VZ is non interference and survives broken belts all the time.

As for running your tank low and burning up fuel pumps, that's an old wives tale. If there's fuel for the engine to run your pump is cooling as designed. Fuel literally runs over the armature and through the body of the pump as it is pumped, any fuel is enough fuel to cool it (doesn't get particularly hot anyway).