Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Lol, I wouldn’t even make them for myself. I’m a solid seat mount kind of guy

 

Sheesh, what’s wrong with some sliders?!

 

@Dayman Karate I'd think the caveat would be, are you using your 3 point seatbelt, or running a harness. Harness = no need for airbags, OEM belt gives in an impact, so you're dome needs a cushion. You can assume if you're going caged, you have seats and a harness, but these things aren't linear, and not everyone goes the same path all at once. That's my unedumacated $.02 anyway.

Also, on the flip side. If you put in harnesses and no cage, you're gonna have a bad time.

 

Thanks, I wasn’t really sure how it all works together. I’ll be doing a cage, harness and seats all at once, but I’m going to finish the SAS first. I’ll be researching in the background.

 

Picked these up from Harry today. Just got to hold them up to the frame a little while ago. They really have thought this all out. It self locating and seems pretty nearly bolt on.

They’re really making this 4 link stuff plug and play. Lower link pockets bolt through right where the carrier bearing cross member rivets are. The upper link locates from the underside of the frame.

Hopefully this Friday I can work on mocking it up. I’m shortening my wheelbase from last measured 142” to 132-135” and I’m using their higher motio ratio links, so coilovers are pretty much going into the cab. Just from looking at it right now, I’ll have to do some frame and cab notching, cutting the frame farther back than the end of the cab and the rear cab mounts will have to be completely redone. I haven’t chopped flush with the cab yet, I was lazy to drop the tank so I left it for now and will be cut at least flush with the cab

Using the Tacoma specific links don’t seem to share the same list of hurdles I’ll be facing.

Can’t wait to get this thing progressing.

 

Just whack the back half off and start over. Be easier and more bang for your buck at the same time.

NVM sounds like youre already doing that. Full cage too?

 

Yeah. We’re going full tilt. I’m in the process of selling my house so it’s been worrying me to get this thing rolling asap. We’re hoping to get at least axle located, frame back half started so I can lay it on “bump” or keep part of the frame sticking out temporary go through a very temporary shock hoop that I can upright the truck with just to move it around. Going to be doing cage and back half. If the sell and move works out, I’ll be smog exempt too. Possibilities open up at that point.

 

Sounds like a win on the move.
Slap her together!

 

Got to replacing these and I think I’m just gonna ditch the whole coil bucket..

 

Who made those?

 

Do you think notching out that front part of the bucket had anything to do with the deflection? At least from that pic it looks like a lot was removed.

 

Yes, the is no material left there so the bucket bowed and broke everything apart.

That is also the wrong shock top cap. On king shocks we use -6 fittings and with Fox they have a longer top cap so the -8 fits underneath.

 

My thought as well. Taking out that downward bend right there removed any strength of that bucket.

 

Especially with how much the frames flex the shock is also most likely being used as a bump stop too

 

Guaranteed. The amount of inward twist on the towers is insane with just the weight of the truck set down on the bumps. A brace would likely stop that. Personally I'm probably going to do a basic engine cage on mine.

 

Is this from notching the bucket? I remember correctly someone told me it would be okay to notch the bucket over the phone

 

If the shock wasn't acting as your bump stop it wouldn't have happened. I just don't see it any other way honestly. And who knows, maybe the IBP's played a role on yours. After all they are basically a coilover with a built in bump stop.

 

That makes no sense, I have a “bolt on kit” with the required 8” stroke shocks, with wheelers super bumps. If I need to add a spacer because after market bumps maybe that should be put out, or at least not be my fault for “incorrectly setting shocks”. Which I don’t get how that works, you just bolt the shit on

 

That’s from thinking you have a trophy truck when you have a bolt on Tacoma kit with a single coilover and not enough valving. The driver of that truck failed to realize he was blowing through the stroke and constantly bottoming the truck very hard. As @906taco said the towers flex a ton and under hard abuse the factory bucket can only take so much. This is why adding a bypass mount and a 3.0 shock is so important for hard abuse.

At the end of the day you have 12-13” of travel in a heavy truck with a factory coil bucket... it can only take so much abuse.

And if I recall you were told to use a 1/4” spacer to lower the shock down for the fitting clearance coupled with a very small notch and to the weld the bridge to the top of the bucket

 

As the installer YOU are responsible for knowing if its right or not. NOT JD. You have the completely wrong mindset on this one. Hate to say it.