Long Travel BS Thread

I know right, you have to wear goggles and a mask to get under it

 

Anyone have any ideas for bed cages with a coil over setup? Or tips? And yes it needs a cage but I don’t want to go that far yet. I made landing pads for the tubes and sandwich plates for the tubes to go through the bed. But I don’t think these shock mounts are gonna work, the shocks need to be pretty much up against the back of the plastic bed. I like @glorifiedwelder work here.

 

Couldn’t figure out the miscom with the abs unit and ebrake so I just ran my own idiot light

 

I had to cut the bed out of the way to get the coil over as far as I could forward.

 

Have you looked at dirt kings prefabbed cage?

 

Yeah I like it a lot, that press broken piece looks great! I just bought a tig too so this bed cage is gonna be my first project on it.

 

I love the looks of it, super clean and low profile. I need a tig lmao which one did you get?

 

Mind sharing your tune? I'm about to tear into my 4runner again and change up the valving. Currently up front I have 2.5 Fox r/r coilovers, TC UCAs and Fox 2.0 r/r out back. Rear shocks are mostly .012 comp and .010 rebound, no flutter. Fronts are a full .015 comp and full .010 rebound. Considering mixing in a small flutter front and rear for some small bump comfort

 

I actually don’t know what’s in the 4runner shocks. Haven’t taken them apart yet. This was out of the box from ADS after telling them what I wanted. Only thing I did was mess with the bypass tubes a smidge in the rear.

For you without bypasses I would strongly recommend adding a flutter to the front and rear. It will make a big difference in the smaller stuff

 

I got a prime weld 225x, and I'm also looking at replacing my miller with an everlast cyclone 212 or 312

 

Honestly, I don’t find flutters to be all they are cracked up to be. Bleed is king when it comes to small chop. My fiancés truck has 2.5x14’s out back with a ton of bleed and rate plated. Similar setup up front as well. It feels plush through everything and doesn’t bottom terribly easy. But rate plates take a good bit of time to get right. I always found there was harshness with flutters as they transitioned into the main stack. Maybe I just wasn’t doing something right. But either way, rate plating is where it’s at in my honest opinion. I’ve achieved much greater results that way.

 

Free bleeds are important as well. Every shock I’ve opened up has had all the bleeds open so that didn’t come to mind. That said I have most of mine blocked off on the Tacoma front. Rears are open

 

You can also increase bleed by drilling more holes as well. I've added some holes to the free bleeds on my truck. Makes a substantial difference in the low speed and small chop department when compared to a flutter. Basically get a nice numerical drill bit set and start easing in opening things up until it starts to feel good.

 

Only bad thing about adding more bleed holes is you'll probably get more body sway but it definitely makes fluid flow easier.

 

Oh you do for sure. But if you add more small holes instead of big holes it seems to only make it noticeable in real slow stuff where its not sketch. Thats been my experience at least.

 

Bleed is a useful tool when discussing shock valving but it is not an end all solution. There are inherent cons of running too much bleed as it affects both compression on rebound circuits. Shock valving is rather complex and there are lots of variables to consider.

That's where flutters come in. Assuming we're not discussing a bypass shock, flutters allow you to decrease the cracking point for small chatter while still retaining some heavier valving for heavier hits. You can also retain your low speed control this way but it obviously takes time to find a flutter that works best. Too much flutter may cause you to blow through the shock travel too quickly while pursing small chop comfortability so it requires a lot of trial and error.

Too much bleed is no bueno. You loose low speed control and the valving on the main piston becomes less effective.

 

Definitely lots of truth to that statement. But it is a proven fact that leaf springs do like lots of bleed, and I've somewhat confirmed that myself. Though I'm still in process and will have to start over after the cage anyways. Start small and work your way up. You can alway tap the holes for .050 screws if you go overboard.

 

Not going to go as far as saying it's a proven fact and what's your definition of "lots of bleed?"

Also, @thegame originally asked about valving on a 4 Runner which is coil in the rear. Your response of "bleed is king" is misleading if you're specifically talking about leaf spring applications.

 

Bleed is king for really tuning out small chop. And done right it doesn't have much impact on high shaft speed.

Ever see how giant sets up their shocks for leafs? They have a ton of bleed.

You will 100% get more body roll the more bleed you add. But honestly I haven't seen a negative impact from it thus far. Lots of people just skip over bleed as a tuning method for whatever reason. I assume most aren't comfortable drilling pistons, which I get.

 

I wish I would have just paid extra and got his link killer shocks when I bought the rear SUA kit from him. Probably would have saved me a bunch of time.