1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Idk. I prob won’t outsmart cheapness but I watched a guy on you tube do beautiful welds. If he can, so can I. I’m gonna start tomorrow prob so I’ll let you know. I’m pretty all in on making it happen though.

it’s 3” so it’s pretty beefy btw.

 

Are you TIG brazing?

 

nope. Straight slow pulse dc. No filler

 

Intercooler piping in copper, huh. Lol. So you'd be using vent line for sewers?

 

no pressure sweat fittings and chop the flare

 

I’m disappointed. I wanted to see mountain dew cans welded together.

 

It would be bud light cans. I’m not that talented though.

 

I just dont like this. Is single sided anti wrap the normal way to do it???

 

It's fucked; send my way for disposal

 

might Send you the anti wrap kit. Don’t wanna permaweld something I don’t like. I’m thinking a link setup to both sides of frame from a dom truss. I swear, NOTHING I buy works.

 

Winter just got here. It’s cold af.

 

My man already knows



@BartMaster1234 doing a setup like that, I would recommend adding the bottom grate for the top oven and the top grate for the bottom oven... set parts on that top grate, and hang parts from that bottom grate.. that way you can leave controls the same and just turn the top wnd/or just the bottom on (or both together) and not burn out the coils while trying to heat the entire space. That's assuming you're keeping the face controls the same

So I've done powder coat in the oven. (Funny you auto assumed his shenanigans = shenanigans I've already done


It'll turn out okay. But the best "at home settings are 450F to 500F... sure the MSDS says it cures at 350F, but that's 350F on an INDUSTRIAL oven. The at home shit MacGyver solutions need to get up to, and hold, a bare minimum of 450F to make sure the shit bakes proper.


@BartMaster1234 pay attention to that yemp rating. I recommend buying a cheap "sits in the oven" temp gauge to make sure the entire cavity can get up to and maintain 350F minimum... don't pay attention to what the dial on the panel says you're at, pay attention to a 3rd party certified temperature reading

 

Interesting, yeah just let me know.

I still need to weld that armor to my front diff.

 

Making it a convection oven could help to distribute that heat?

 

Fair enough... I appreciate your realism in that regard.



Just understand, for me, I'm..... I'm the kinda guy that buys a $100 dollar steering rack from a junkyard + a $35 seal rebuild kit to avoid spending $500 on a certified Toyota, complete rebuilt rack that comes WITH inner tie rods.


I still have yet to buy inner tie rods and install my rebuilt rack and it's going on, almost, 2 years




I've mostly avoided it because I found a work around, AND I can't be mad at myself for rebuilding it incorrectly ... if I never install it to figure out, if I've rebuilt it incorrectly.








Point being, back on topic, you're a better man than I for replacing the whole radiator!

 

Lol I won't go as far as to give me that much credit.

I see a radiator as a key component I shouldn't skimp out on.

The steering crap?...why do you think I refill it with ATF every 3 months

 

There's a reason why it's parked in front of the house and not in the driveway

 

First bolded response, .... my man! Free.99 is the best price ro make ANYTHING work, fuck sometimes I build shit just because I can, only because I got the components for free.


Second bolded point... in my industry all hydraulic heat exchangers used to have copper cores with aluminum fins. (Sometimes copper fins, but not regularly)

They were the best, longest lasting (unless destroyed) fluid heat exchangers on the market... today's day and age everything has moved to 100% AL being the "best thing" but really it's only the best cause corps have needled the market to make the longestlastingbutstillmadethecheapest thing the " best available"


I'm jealous and I want to make copper cored heat exchanger

 

Was the highlighted section done TIG or MIG?

My gut instincts says MIG.. and if it's MIG you don't need to whip it so hard, from my independent 3rd party research, run the trigger straight, with plenty shield gas and amps, is structurally more sound than the aesthetic looking welds

 

That would drive me bonkers, I haaaaaate leaks.