Long Travel BS Thread

Furick Starter Kit 9/20 torches (FU920-SK) – Furick Cup

This is a great kit to get your feet wet with gas lenses. IMO they are a requirement. Just make sure of your torch size before ordering.

 

Too hot, dirty and looks like mild steel which I'd never tig weld

 

If that's your first time running the tig torch, then you are already ahead of most. In addition to what was mentioned about heat, cups, and cleanliness, work on consistent torch angles to the material. Its tough on a curve like that. Also, I will say that low frequency pulse settings can help a guy that is just starting out to be able to reposition on the fly without over heating the material or having those puddle deflections. Also need to ramp down on the end as you left a crater due to abrupt with drawl.

I'm not sure which machine you bought, but if there's an option for the liquid cooled torch that is a game changer. It really allows you to not worry about your hand temp and focus on the torch position. Especially with that higher amperage.

 

Good call. Luckily the rear shocks are way easier to pull and mess with.

 

They are old old old Fox 2.0 RR with compression adjusters. Steel body that’s zinc coated and the pistons definitely have bleed holes, 2 of them in fact.

 

One thing I’ll note is the undercut on the edges. Definitely running hot and fast, or going too wide. Try not to let your arc go past the gap or fill area (sorry it’s been a long time since I used the proper terminology) other than that pretty much what everyone else has said. One trick I learned in school was to “walk the cup” I used a #10 and crept a good angle and every one of my welds passed the bend tests. That’s what worked for me anyway.

 

Perfect, then you don't need to worry about bleed shims.

 

Thanks everyone, I have a fupa 12 cup but didn’t know I needed an adapter, never holding a torch before. I just ran a 7 cause that’s what it came with. It’s a primeweld 225x. I didn’t clean cause I was just trying to focus on getting rhythm down and wanted to be able to weld more. Obviously on a real part I would. Good point on cleaning filler and tungsten, as well as ramping down for no crater. I tried pulse but got confused and wanted to just stick with pulsing with the pedal till I at least learn the concept of the amperage control with my foot. Thanks again

 

I have the same welder with water cooler setup for my personal use. Having always been a Blue guy, I'm surprised at just how much I like it. You can still use your foot pedal to adjust the amperage when in pulse, but what you're working on is good. I think you'll find that you'll want to clean it all even if its practice as you'll be chasing your tail and cleaning your tungsten all too frequently.

 

Between a 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0 shock; the upper eyelet is the same width correct?

 

Learning pedal control is far more important than figuring out pulse. Forget pulse even exists right now. To me it looks like your travel speed is just too slow for the amperage you're running. Back off the amps, watch the puddle and use the pedal accordingly. As you get faster you can bump the amps.

Also, clean everything. Even if its practice. You will find things go much much better.

 

This will save you a lot of time and re-doing things:

get deaver 62 /64” springs . Do the spring under conversion with either a kit from jd fab/ dirt king/ camburg / giant ,or weld on your own hangers. Try to run a bypass shock with the first stage fully opened up.

You are gonna want 9-10” (or more) of just uptravel, then the rest being down travel . 16-19” total travel . Don’t waste time and money pretending, or being forced to drive slowly through the woops because your rear end keeps bucking up.

 

There are definitely work arounds for not running bypass shocks , like running more bleed for lower speed hits , and flutter stacks for a more progressive rate , but hard to actually substitute the benefits of a bypass shock. Bypass shocks are position sensitive , so no matter how hard or slow something is , it will comply softly for that first bit of travel. Conversely, as you approach the end of the travel range , a bypass will always be “firm” no matter how slow or hard the hit (for example, a G out , or a jump, or just a big woop).

with just a flutter stack or so , you might bottom out over G outs, or if you are packing up through successive hits.

 

Yes nice shiny metal is best to weld, and even grind back from the edges 1/2" or so because the weld puddle will pull impurities into it. Definitely a travel speed issue here though, too hot, too slow. D1.1 MIG and D17.1 TIG welder here checking in for duty

 

I had my D1.1 for a while but never used it lol didn’t need it for the shop I was in.

 

I did a few more quick beads for a friend that is well certified and he said my arc was way too long and I am putting my filler on the wrong spot. I didn’t realize you’re feeding the hot metal filler, not right on or next to the tungsten tip. Also my fupa 12 adapter comes in tomorrow so that will be nice

 

Yeah you definitely don’t wanna touch the filler to the base and the tungsten at the same time either. Lol

 

I’m awake!

Been there done that…. Always in some messed up position.

 

Wondering if I can get some info from anyone who has relocated their fuse box from out of the engine bay because of an engine cage.

 

the whole fuse box? thats quite a feat with how many wires there are. most the ones i've seen people just build some new brackets to hold it up. I'm gonna start tackling the same issue after thanksgiving, gonna cut my whole fenders out and not put anything back so gotta figure that part out as well. Eventually i wanna go full haltech PDM modules to power everything but thats expensive and takes alot of time to wire and figure out.