Another Around the World Tacoma

It's crazy that your leafs twisted so much. Did you retorque your U-bolts after installing the new springs?

 

Yep, I checked them twice after install, and then just before we drove up to Utah.

I noticed they have shifted slightly in the past, but never this far. Though I have never pushed the suspension quite like I did in The Maze.

 

I fixed the rotated leafs yesterday afternoon.

Tacoma Work - Rear by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Pulled the tire and dropped the axle after removing the lower shock bolt. I loosened the U-bolts, worked a flat bar in between the leafs and was able to tap it back into place.

One of the nuts felt just a bit looser than the others. Maybe that's why they rotated.

Anyways, torqued them all back down, and checked the drivers side, and it was reassembled.

Tacoma Work - Rear by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I then went on a cleaning spree, using the pressure washer to work all of the dirt off of the truck. Chemical Guys Bare Bones undercarriage spray is fantastic stuff.

Tacoma Work - Rear by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

My brake line wrenches arrived, so I installed my DMZ fab extended lines.

Tacoma Work - Rear by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I had an issue with the Exped that I purchased years ago, and thankfully it was still under warranty. The replacement arrived yesterday, so I unrolled it and put it up in the camper to expand overnight.

Tacoma Work - Rear by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I am contemplating making the switch to a Hest Duelly mattress, but man are they pricey. I still am not decided at this time. If the price was more in line with an Exped I would be all over it. But almost $600 for a foam mattress is steep to me.

 

Consider the Hest right now too.
What issues did you have with the exped?

 

Did it get a hole? Man my expid is super comfortable to sleep on.

 

The Exped is massively comfortable, I agree.

Mine was many years old, though less than 5 years old, thankfully. A portion of the upper skin near where my feet go had delaminated from the main foam core.

Delaminated Exped by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Exped warranted the entire mattress, sending me a brand new one, with a new bag and pump, in 8 days. I was very pleased with that.

So I have that mattress up in the camper now.

The Hest removes the need to pump up the mattress with air. I laid on a friends, and it was really comfortable too. Also, the way we climb down from the bed in the camper has us crushing the two valves, unless we are very careful. That's my main concern. That we may damage those valves in time. I am installing some more storage down in the bed, and we will be able to step on it as we climb down, so this may help with the crushed valve issue.

For now I will stick with the Exped. The Hest is just too pricey. I know I buy other pricey things for this truck, but 1) I don't already have something that accomplishes the same thing, and 2) there is only one option, so you pay what it costs.

Saturday was a busy day!

I took a trip to Flagstaff, and myself and two friends got to cutting and welding. It was time to upgrade from the old, puny shocks, to something truly magnificent.

Rear Towers plus Misc. by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The truck barely, and I mean barely, fits in Ryan's garage. There was 1" to spare.

Rear Towers plus Misc. by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The install of these monster 12" shocks require the removal of the OEM upper shock mount from the frame, and the OEM lower shock mount from the axle.

The mount on the frame came out relatively easy. Use a cutoff wheel on a grinder to scour the edge welds on the mount. Also cut the mount into three pieces. Then use a BFH to beat it back and forth until it breaks off. Clean up the welds on the frame and the top is done.

The mount on the axle is a little different, as it is seriously welded to the axle. It takes a lot more time to remove. Even with a plasma cutter, the remaining metal takes forever to grind away with a grinder.

But, working together, we got it done and removed. Ryan cut off the main chunks with a plasma cutter, and I ground the remaining metal down to the axle.

The Archive Garage Rear Relocate Towers are a thing of beauty. Well packaged, quality construction, and easy to follow instructions. Plus, you do not need to remove the bed (all but impossible on this truck now) to weld them in.

Rear Towers plus Misc. by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The main reason I went with this upgrade is because the top of the tower ties into the wheel well with two bolts and a plate, per side. This 'trussing' of the composite bed to the frame does wonders for redistributing the stresses caused by the camper, through the bed, and into the frame. I'm always concerned with the longevity of this build, so adding this extra set of connections puts a smile on my face.

After a handful of hours, they were in. Massive 2.5" shocks and resi's from Radflo.

For my future reference, the rear shocks are valved as follows: 8 Flutter, 8, 10's/8's

Rear Towers plus Misc. by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I also had Ryan weld on limit strap tabs to the frame and the axle. I need to get the truck fully flexed so I can determine the required limit strap lengths so I can get them ordered from Kartek. I'll get some measurements of flex when I do that.

I am determining where and how I will get 5.29 gears into this thing, now that the rear shocks are done. That's the next big thing.

I have some more parts ordered, some backordered, and others on their way.

I am also in the process (slowly I must admit) of writing the Trip Report for our trip to The Maze. I'll keep working on that and get a link to it posted here once it's done.

 

It took a while, and I will probably regret not doing it earlier, but my gears have finally arrived.

5.29 Gears by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I went with 5.29 Nitro Gears from ECGS. The box was a bit beat up on delivery, but everything inside looks fine.

Tomorrow they go to Cryo-One here in Phoenix to be cryo and REM treated. This increases their durability (a must) and remove the 500 mile break in period (not a necessity, but desirable).

After that I'll pull the diff and third member and take everything to ZUK to have him work his magic.

That should happen in the next couple of weeks.

Other than that, I took the time to clean my synthetic winch line, as it had been a while.

Tacoma Work 10-22 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The winch is in good working order and the line is in great shape. I tucked it all away after it was clean.

A portion of one of the charging ports in the ACCC stopped functioning, so OK4WD sent me a replacement under warranty.

The install was straightforward and easy. OK4WD was really easy to work with, as they have always been, and I'm really glad they are the company I need to keep in touch with with regards to my camper. Their customer service is extraordinary.

Tacoma Work 10-22 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Finally, I added a Sherpa Animas 36" roof rack to the top of the truck. This is a model that is specific to a DCLB Tacoma with an AluCab Canopy Camper on the back. It fits very nicely.

Tacoma Work 10-22 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Tacoma Work 10-22 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I wasn't going to add one of these, but after planning out the types of things we want to carry with us, I realized that that space is too useful to ignore.

So I hopped on the bandwagon and added some more stuff to the outside of the truck. I'll add a weatherproof case up there to hold some lighter, potentially messy stuff (muck boots, etc.) in an effort to keep the inside of the truck a bit cleaner.

Tacoma Work 10-22 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The fit is very nice and there is no wind noise at all up to 70 mph. The front aero of the truck was already ruined due to the camper, so it really couldn't get any worse.

I have finished all of the 80/20 super structure in the back of the truck for our storage. Now I need to top and side it. That is next on the list.

Ah, my recent trip to The Maze made me realize that it was finally time to upgrade from my beginner DSLR (Nikon D3300 with 18-55 kit lens) to something capable of doing a better job of capturing the places I am likely to see on my journeys. So I stepped up to a Nikon D7500 with a prime 50mm lens and a zoom 24-120mm lens.

The difference is massive. I am also learning a lot as well, specifically on how to shoot in Manual mode, so that I can get the image I want, not the image the camera thinks I want.

My brothers cats make pretty good test subjects, sometimes:

MAR_0776 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

MAR_0741 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Until next time.

 

I've been tiptoeing around an Animas rack for a while now.
Have you noticed any reduction in wind noise or buffeting coming from the gap between the camper and the cab?

I've gotten to the point in our build where I want to call it done
But it does seem like a perfect place for a waterproof case and a set of Maxtrax

 

I have not noticed any change in wind noise. When it's cool enough, I drive with the rear window slid open due to the air movement through the cab.

I have never noticed a buffeting at all.

Agreed. It was expensive, but when we were discussing where things would go, we realized we had no place to stash potentially dirty stuff. This solved that problem.

 

We took a short trip this past weekend up to Sedona, AZ to canyoneer and mountain bike its beautiful landscape. It was cold at night, down in the 20's, so we used the Dickinson furnace the entire night. I need to investigate the orifice that lets the gas escape, as the furnace is tuned for sea level. It didn't pump out as much heat as I was expecting, and the incorrect orifice may be why. Still plenty warm in there, just not a sauna like I was expecting.

Storage Build Out by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

We had a great time, but Sedona has closed a vast amount of their disbursed camping, so our ability to go up there to easily camp has been greatly reduced.

I took some time recently to continue working on the storage setup inside of the camper.

I started by using some chicken wire to screen off a section so that things won't get jammed against the fridge, hindering its ability to cool our food.

Storage Build Out by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

It worked out well, as the thin wire can be pushed down and into the bed rug, keeping it in place.

With that taken care of, I started on the shelf that separates the lower storage, where kitchen things will be kept, from the upper area where clothes will be stored.

Measurements were gathered and then transferred to the 1/2" thick plywood.

Storage Build Out by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I used M5 button head bolts to secure the plywood to the aluminum extrusion. I ran the piece all the way to the edge of the wheel well to keep things from falling down below.

Storage Build Out by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

To keep the 'back' closed I again used the chicken wire to build a lightweight wall.

Storage Build Out by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I stapled it to the top of the plywood sheet, and pushed the bottom pieces of wire into the bed rug. It is nice and secure.

I also worked on two of the three top panels.

I added a panel to the top of the propane tank, as this panel needs to be removable from time to time to swap out the tank.

I added a second, small panel that is basically underneath the electrical panel. The large open area will be a hinged panel, for access, and that panel couldn't go all the way to the edge while still being able to open. So hence the smaller panel. This one won't ever be removed. A small surge protector will be affixed to it, so that we have an easier time plugging in our AC appliances.

Storage Panels by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The wonky shape of the square panel is that way so that the hinged platform can get some support at that corner. We will be using these panels as seats, so they need to be rigid enough to stay put under our butts.

I also finished one of the side panels, but it's drying currently and I'll install that tomorrow.

Also, my 5.29 gears are at Cryo One getting REM and Cryo treatment done to them. They said they'll be done by the end of this week, so I am planning on two weekends from now to disassemble the truck to have the gears done. I am excited about this!

Until next time.

 

Any concerns with keeping the propane tank inside the shell like that?
I know my frige started working better when I made sure to have some clearance around the exaughst areas, that's a good idea to use the chicken wire.
Trucks looking awesome as always!

 

Thanks Chris. I look forward to the next time we can do a trip together. Missed having you on The Maze trip.

Good question, and I don't have any concerns. Even if I stored the tank outside, some lines would still have to run inside the camper.

The air quality monitor is a nice touch, and that's what gives me confidence. With the camper closed, if we open the valve on the stove to light it, within three seconds the monitor starts blaring.

Even with the camper fully open, we cracked open one of the hose connections to position it better and the monitor immediately started shrieking.

So far, I have no reason to be frightened. The main issues with leaking propane are very unlikely to occur in such a small, poorly sealed, space.

 

I have completed another round of work on the Tacoma.

I cut down the bolts that the Archive Garage Relocate Towers use to mount the tower to the composite bed. I used a Sawzall and it took forever, the bolts are a high grade and therefore hard to cut. But I got it done.

I covered the exposed nut with an M12 plastic nut cap.

More Work by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

In that same photo, I also added a water shutoff valve to the rear water spigot. I want to be able to close it to avoid having any water potentially freeze in the rear cubby, if we are camping in the extreme cold. I need to add one additional M5 nutsert to hold it in place a bit better, as it's a little heavy.

I replaced the COM10T bearings that are in the lower front shock mounts, but I didn't replace the misalignment spacers, as I didn't know you needed to.

I had a squeak up front that was fairly pronounced, so I purchased new misalignment spacers (the old ones were aged, had some very light surface rust) and coated them in anti-seize. Reinstalled everything and thankfully the annoying squeak was gone!

More Work by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I also measured my rear droop so that I could order the correct length limit straps for the rear.

I had 21.5 inches from the axle tab to the center of the upper mount. According to Kartek this is the distance you need.

You take out 4.25 inches for the adjustable upper clevis. That left me with 17.25" of strap.

The straps elongate under load at 1" for every 12" of strap length, so 1/12" per inch.

A 16" strap, under full load, will extend to 17.333 inches, which is just a smidge longer than 17.25".

The clevis is adjustable, so I can take out that .08 inches with the clevis.

While doing this I realized that the center wiring at the differential was holding the axle up. Even with the upper connection disconnected it was still tight, so I had to unclip both of the mounts in order to get slack into the wiring.

More Work by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I also noticed that my OEM exhaust on the passenger side was keeping that side of the axle from reaching full droop. It stopped it about 1" shy.

I think I will end up cutting the exhaust back a bit, right at the point where it is facing down, behind the axle, before it bends back to level with the ground. This will keep the heat from the exhaust gases from being blasted on anything, and I now longer have to worry about ripping the end of the exhaust off of its mount. You can see how stretched the rubber mount is in the photo.

More Work by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The small outlet I purchased arrived, so I used two small screws to mount it to the fixed panel near the inverter. This will make it much easier to plug things in. Before you had to aim blindly into the bottom of the inverter, but not anymore. Something simple, but it will make a difference over time. It has (3) outlets and (3) USB ports.

More Storage Work + Limit Straps by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I was also able to finish the hinges for the large pivoting portion of the storage area. It pivots easily now, and all I have to do is source out (2) struts to hold it open. I'll get on that soon.

More Storage Work + Limit Straps by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The limit strap package arrived this afternoon, so I unpacked it and got to installing the straps!

The clevis's are a thing of beauty. Expensive, but they're the only option to get the job done with the mounts that I had welded to the frame.

More Storage Work + Limit Straps by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Installed. The strap cannot touch the wheel no matter its orientation. I purposefully installed the lower tab at 90 degrees from how it will be when taut, as I want to know when and if I ever engage it. So that's why it's positioned that way.

More Storage Work + Limit Straps by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I have the final storage panel in paint now, so once it dries and is edged I will bolt it in and that part of the build will be fully complete!

My gears are done at Cryo-One tomorrow, so I will go and grab them. I will text ZUK and see if I can bring the gears to him this upcoming weekend. If he's available, it will be a busy weekend!

 

Gears finally finished up at Cryo-One here in town, so I went and picked them up.

2 weeks and $380. They are beautiful though. The two processes, which increase abrasion and wear resistance, improve heat distribution and dissipation, increase ductility and reliability, better fatigue life, lowers friction, reduces drivetrain loss, and increases efficiency, take a long time.

Cryo + REM 5.29's by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I think it is worth it.

Texting now to see if my gears get pulled out of the truck this weekend, or at a later date.

I guess I need to figure out how to pull em!

 

This little guy was a huge help when I did mine. Mainly for the front. I'm guess that 3rd gens are somewhat similar.

 

I have confirmation that the gears can be done by ZUK over the Thanksgiving holiday, so I will be pulling them out tomorrow!

A bit nervous. Not of the disassembly or of the reassembly, but of cracking open the diffs. I just hop everything goes well when it's all buttoned back up. Lol it drives fine now, I don't want to go backwards!

 

Third members are cake...you pulling the whole front clamshell?

 

I have read that the third member is easy, especially if you loosen the rear brake line mounting points to avoid having to drain the fluid. This one is cake for me.

Yes, he wants the whole front clamshell, minus the tube that's held on with the E14 bolts. This one is a bit trickier. I think it's just loosen lower spindle bolts to pull CV's, then disconnect diff wiring, then undo front driveshaft then unbolt the diff itself.

I'll look up a guide (found one a while ago, just need to re-find it) to follow. All within my capabilities, I just like to be super prepared the first time I work on a particular system.

 

Sounds about right...I assume by "fluid" you mean brake fluid, because you'll absolutely need to drain both diffs.

Do you have a copy of the 3G FSM?

ETA: Depending on when you'll be doing the work, I may be able to give you a hand.