Haltech Stand alone ECU supercharger 3.4, SILVER BULLET TUNE www.snpspeed.com

Wow, just wow. I have an MS3Pro just sitting on a shelf, its so tempting to wire up with a PNP harness...

How do you like your transgo VB kit?

 

Did you get your innovate gauge to work with the Haltech? Or do you have 2 separate wideband gauges, 1 for the haltech and 1 for the gauge?

Did you get the charcoal canister gas smell sorted? I've run into that a couple times but on my OEM ECU.

 

I have two separate wideband O2 sensors.

The innovate gauge is only there for me to easily monitor what is going on. The Haltech has its own WB O2 sensor so it doesn't need any of the data from the innovate WB.

 

Gotcha. That's what I figured the setup would be.
Have you found the innovate to be accurate compared to the afr reading that the haltech is getting from it's O2 sensor?

 

I've found the innovate to be accurate enough, tho I rarely compare the two sets of data side by side. Also, the Haltech is feeding the software on the laptop which could introduce some variances. For example, I have noticed a consistent .5VDC difference between what the OBDII port (via the scangauge) and the Haltech software.

FWIW, I am running the older version of the Haltech software on the laptop.

 

Gotcha. I have the PSB-1 gauge that just showed up to install so that's good to hear.
My scangauge OBD voltage reading has always been off from the true battery voltage. I have one of

$20 12V USB Outlet 2 Pack, Dual Quick Charge 3.0, Socket Waterproof Aluminum Charger with LED Voltmeter and Power Switch, Adapter for Marine Motorcycle Truck Golf Cart RV, Car etc.

these hardwired that I use to monitor voltage since I've never found the SG reading to be accurate. I would assume that to be true as well between what the Haltech sees versus OBDII.

 

[QUOTE="betterbuckleup, post: 28034295, member: 222483"



Did you get the charcoal canister gas smell sorted? I've run into that a couple times but on my OEM ECU.[/QUOTE]

I did and Gabe made some adjustments and now I don’t have any gas smells unless it’s above 80 degrees outside,
So today it’s 30 degrees and 80 plus temperatures will not be till summer and then he can make another adjustment

 

[QUOTE="I did and Gabe made some adjustments and now I don’t have any gas smells unless it’s above 80 degrees outside,
So today it’s 30 degrees and 80 plus temperatures will not be till summer and then he can make another adjustment[/QUOTE]

Do you know what he adjusted in the tune to fix that issue. It also only happened to me when it was really hot out.

 

There is a setting for specific adjustment in the drop down tab for this adjustment for the canister valve
Sounds like we both are in the same boat, only when hot.

 

So question for those that got the SNP kit and had Gabe do the tune.
I understand that it comes with a base tune already on it and then you get I think 2 tuning sessions on top of that included in the original purchase to get it more dialed in.

If after that you have issues (like the flashing check engine lights, crank sensor, etc.), will Gabe help with that or does that fall under additional tuning time at which point you get charged for it?

 

The 2 free tuning sessions thing was a typo in the instructions, I got those instructions too and was a bit disappointed when I received a bill after tuning. I paid $350 for my first tuning session and then have had a couple shorter tuning sessions to work out the kinks, both of which have been free.

 

Oh damn. Well that's good to know.
So out of the box you only get a base tune and that's it?
How long did your first tuning session last?

 

That falls under a separate bill unless you work something out with him or any other tuner.

The problem with these tunes are that these trucks are 25 some years old and 720,000 miles like mine so there are numerous issues that can be an issue for the tune and sometimes no issues with the tune I’ve seen with others.
So it depends on the condition off your truck and it’s electrical system.
The haltech has zero tolerances it seem for errors.

Things you should do before you do the remote tune to not wasted time and money are listed below if your truck is not at 100 percent
1) upgrade ground wires to 4 gauge and use dielectric grease on each connectors.
A) ground wire from battery to fender
B) ground wire from firewall to engine
C) clean OEM ground wire from battery to engine block.
D) run the “STAR” ground loop
E) star ground continues the ground from the engine to the frame and then back to the negvside of battery.
2) the haltech ECU ground wire is attached to the supercharger on the drivers side,
A) Make sure those wires are wire brushed and the metal on the supercharger is cleaned for full contact.
3) battery terminals need to be cleaned and making perfect contacts in excellent condition.
4) alternator has to be working at 100 percent
A) make sure battery is working at 100 percent.
5) the haltech uses more power volts than the stock ECU,
A) run a voltage meter across the battery when the engine is running, it should read 14 plus volts,
The haltech computer program for some reason shows .5 volts lower or so.
6) Check the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor wire connectors and put dielectric grease on the connectors.
A) check the condition of both these sensor wires.
7) two step cooler plugs
A) spark plug gap

Start off your tune making sure you have done the things above 1st.

The problem with trigger and engine lights are if ANY of these are not perfect you WILL have problems.

The problem with the stock electrical components are that if they are not at 100 percent you will have issues,

You might need to replace these if they are not at 100 percent
A) spark plug wires
B) camshaft sensor
C) crankshaft sensor
D) engine coils
E) there is a chance the wire harness is damage and you might need a new harness from Gabe for the two sensors.
Another haltech buyers problems were the wire harness.


Most of the issues are a ground issue or a sensor issue,
It’s super frustrating if there are issues that are not at 100 percent on your truck tracking it down

 

Appreciate the feedback. I did just order the big 7 upgrade kit that you got from jeepcables.com. I do also already have a diode in the alternator fuse so that it boosts the output to 14.2-14.8 charging volts. So both of those should help on that front, but who's to say what kind of issues 270k miles old sensors will cause.

Did you upgrade any grounds outside of the kit you got and cleaning the ground on the supercharger?

 

I added a 4 gauge neg wire from the ground wire at the engine to the frame , (there is a threaded bolt hole on the inside of the frame on the drives side) then ran another 4 gauge wire from the frame to the battery for a complete loop.
I had lots of issues probably because I have 700k plus miles,
I did replace both sensors, plugs wires and coils and ground wire upgrades then everything came together,
35k on the haltech and she's running perfectly,

Yeah, the old sensors and maybe coils work fine with the stock ecu with less tolerance but not with haltech

 

Noted.
Yea there's no real way of telling what sensors/things the haltech is going to have issues with until you actually install it and find out.

 

All of this. I personally would replace the crank sensor before even trying to tune. I also had to replace the crank sensor wiring from the stock ecu harness connector to the sensor, when I discovered a factory splice in the harness that connected the ground side of the crank and cam sensors together. I eliminated that splice, I don’t think Tacomas have it, my truck is a T100. Tacomas are connected within the ECU I believe. Before doing that, the engine would not rev past 3500 rpm and would pop and backfire.

 

This is why I have been big on getting the perfect piggyback as I love the OEM cold start, cruise etc and non need to change anything up when smogged.

Greddy EMU with Split Second o2 skewer has been a pertty good combo.

 

I had an Apexi SAFC on my IS300 and it worked pretty good, but compared to my friends IS on a Haltech PNP, yeah I was lacking a ton under the curve. But there are bigger differences with higher boost turbo setups vs very low boost small superchargers so I can see the Greddy doing the job well.

I have the same turbo you have for your IS for my taco, looked like the right size ripper.

 

Yeah for big power setups i think one needs standalone for that fuel and timing accuracy- no OE ECU 'moving the map' shinanigans.

For moderate boost piggies are really nice to keep OEM idle, cold start etc.

The Greaddy EMU died on the IS300, I need to inspect the board but I full intend on being piggybacked even after the GTW swap as I don't intend to make "big" power.

All future ICE cars/trucks I get, it will be a huge decider if the OEM ECU has flashing options. Tired of this EMS crap.