Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Okay so I temporarily fixed the wire with some 14 guage until the harness comes in. Fixed that issue. Now when I turn slowly the rear wheels chirp. Maybe like the rear locker is stuck. But 4 hi, 4 lo, and the locker lights all go on and off. No lights. Is it the abs or traction control doing some funky things relearning since I put new 3rd members in?

Found the issue. Turns out the plunger sensor for the e-locker needs to be installed before installing the 3rd member. Cool. Looks like I'm re-doing it...

 

might have the elocker motor mis timed and its not actually unlocking

 

The strange thing is there is no lights on the dash and everything works as it should. The locker is just not opening regardless if the locker light is on or off.
Might call ECGS tomorrow. From what I read though seems like it's usually the sensor isn't properly engaged in the ring.

 

Happy Friday guys... just a heads up we are doing a Black Friday sale this year. We have decided to do a 10% discount across the board on everything we make.

The promo code is “Black Friday” and we are running the promotion from Sunday the 20th- Sunday the 27th.

Thank you everyone for the continued support!

 

Well after sharing a car for months I finally have my truck back. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Didn't go as smooth as planned, like always. Next thing on the list is +2 fiberglass and build my bumper.

@wrmathis you were right. It was my e-locker motor. The teeth weren't engaging properly. Thanks. ECGS customer service was also really helpful and great to talk to.

 

Yeah I’ve pulled the hvac out of mine twice and now I’ve got a vintage air setup which I can just unbolt and slide out. The factory unit is enormous…lol

 

I am definitely putting the thing on a diet. Eliminating any and all wiring that will no longer be of use to me. Might even do my heater core and evaporator while I'm in there. My luck is I'll get it all back together and immediately have problems.

 

Be very careful removing wiring and make sure you remove the computer and put it in a safe place. The Tacoma ECU is super sensitive... don’t ask me how I know

 

Yeah, The PCM got put away as soon as it came out. As far as the wiring goes, that doesn't bother me so much. Used to thin out harnesses all the time for tucks etc. I have all of the schematics on standby. Mainly just pulling airbag and ABS stuff.

 

Were you trying to fit 40s with the current trim on the stock fenders?

 

No I damaged the fenders and cut them to remove the dents. It is a lot higher than I would like though. That's why I want to do fiberglass.

 

Would you guys recommend waiting to drill and lock the cams until the suspension settles then realign? Or do you think I am fine to go ahead and bolt them?

 

Have you been running the shocks for a while before the work?

 

I would let it settle first.

 

No they are brand new. That's what I was assuming but wanted to make sure. Thanks!

 

Friendly reminder that this starts today and goes through next Sunday

 

Remaining chassis harness pulled from the truck. Engine and trans come out next. Then tube work begins shortly after. My core support is still cracking pretty good in a few spots on the drivers side. I assume this is simply because of how much I had to cut out for 37’s. Either way, it made up my mind. Engine cage it is.

 

As we discussed the weight of the battery is what’s causing the issue.

For guys that abuse their trucks I strongly recommend moving the battery out of the engine compartment and this is why!

 

perfect time to ditch that whimpy v6 and join the dark side…lol