Shifter stuck in park, key stuck in ignition

My 2004 Prerunner (150,000 miles) has developed an issue that is baffling. First the key was stuck in the ignition. After disconnecting the battery it came out easily. A YouTube video showed disconnecting a wire module under the console curing the problem.

A couple of days later the shift lever was stuck in Park. Another video shows that pushing the little white button next to the shifter releases the shifter from park.

My mechanic replaced the shift interlock solenoid (neutral safety switch) & all was well for 2 days. Then the problem started again with the key being stuck. Shifter worked fine. So I disconnected the wire plug again & out came the key but now the shifter is stuck in Park again. Any advice?

 

I’ll bet your shifter bushings are just about gone. I’d replace all four. Not a bad DIY.

So far you and the mechanic have treated the symptom and not the cause. Replace the shifter linkage bushings to fix it properly.

 

I'd also suggest getting a new key cut at a dealer via your VIN number.

 

Yep sounds like shifter bushings. The shifter should not have any side to side or diagonal play, just a bit of forward & back.

Although I didn't not have the key stuck or shifting issues I can't believe what difference the new bushings made. I replaced mine earlier this year. One was completely gone, another one in pieces, other 2 were fine.

 

he has an automatic. I dont think there are bushings to change.

 

Autos are the ones that commonly have this issue.

 

Both automatics and manuals have bushing/cup issues- same, same, but different.

Automatic:

Manual:

 

I used the 3d printed urethane ones from a member here.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...er-bushings-now-for-sale-95-5-04-2022.605409/

 

Two up front and two in back. All the same bushing.

 

I'm not sold the bushings are causing the stuck in park reason.

Please let us know if the replaced bushings solve the issue.

I got no problem being proved wrong. Ask my wife.

 

I second this ^^^

 

Check your brake switch.

 

Solved my exact problem. Without replacing the bushings, the only way I could remove the key was to disconnect the battery.

 

I think the bushings might be the issue here, but there is of course a possibility it's something else. I had some issues with the key sticking, but not chronic.

Bushings was one of the first things I did after buying the truck a few months ago, and it really did make a world of a difference. Immediately felt years younger since all four were completely disintegrated and the shifter would rattle incredibly loud once the RPMs got over 3k or so. Definitely worth taking the shot here first as it's a cheap repair.

Out of curiosity, how much does getting a new key cut cost, roughly? Been thinking about getting a fresh key from the dealership.

 

I could be wrong, but I recall it being pretty cheap- around $10 bucks. I'd like to do it as well, but I haven't been by a dealership in awhile. I want one of the keys with the black plastic that breaks in a few months again

 

I am 99% positive the bushing are causing the problem. There is a shift interlock mechanism that is actuated by the shift lever being in the P position, when the bushing wear there is enough slop in the shifter handle to not push the electrical switch to release the electric key lock mechanism that is attached to the key lock assembly in the steering column.

 

If I wasn’t just as sure I wouldn’t have been so to the point in the first response to OP.

 

I have the same issue and replacing the bushings didn’t help. It was the shift interlock mechanism.

Another way to get your key out is to pull the acc fuse instead of the battery.

The issue with mine is a metal pin in the shifter that keeps working itself out of place when pressing the shift button to move from park to drive, reverse, etc. I haven’t taken it apart again to fix the issue. Just left the acc fuse out for now, but you won’t have a radio if you do that.

 

C

While it’s certainly possible it’s not just the bushings (my money says it is just the bushings), they’re pretty much guaranteed to be well worn if original. For a sub $20 investment in parts for OEM replacements, just get after it and assess the rest of the situation while in there.