50 amp heater fuse keeps blowing ‍‍‍

I have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma V6 and the switch that turns the blower on and off doesn't work. I've tried replacing the blower and resistor and that didn't do the trick... I started looking into the fuses and noticed there was a 50 amp blown I replaced with another one and it instantly blew that one as well has anyone else had this problem or not what the problem may be so I can get my blower and ac working again? It's starting to get cold out thanks in advance

 

It could be that the reason your blower doesn't work is that the blower motor itself is jammed up and / or shot. This would also cause the fuse to blow. I'd see if the blower turns over with some assistance first off.

 

Unplug the blower, if it still blows the fuse your gona have to find where the wire is shorted if the fuse doesn't blow with the motor unplugged your motor is bad.

 

@Dm93 okay thank you I will try that

 

A relatively quick test is to remove the blower connector and attach a test light to the connector to test the circuit wiring. Don't forget to put in a new fuse first.

 

Sounds like he already replaced the blower and resistor

I've heard of the plug at the back of the fan switch getting melted I think?

 

He should have noticed that if he replaced the blower - ‘should ‘have’. That was the problem with my inoperative blower, but it never blew a fuse. I re-wired the female blade connectors, I believe with .187” or .125, I forget - it’s the smallest size available.

 

I mean the plug behind the fan speed switch, at the control panel on the dash

 

That wouldn't blow the 50A heater fuse, the fuse feeds the HTR relay which powers the blower motor directly, the switch controls the ground side of the motor.

The only thing that would blow the 50 amp heater fuse is a short on the Black/Yellow wire between the relay and the blower motor or a shorted blower motor.

 

Couldn't he try another fuse with the blower disconnected? That should rule out a path to ground through the fan motor

 

Yes, I said that in my post above.
One can also unplug the HTR relay and blower motor, pull the 10 amp A/C fuse, and take a test light from battery positive to Pin 3 of the HTR Relay socket, if the light lights then that circuit is shorted to ground. At that point you can start wiggling wires and look for the light to flicker or go out when you find the short.

 

I replace the 50 amp fuse unplug the blower motor and as soon as I turn the switch over it automatically blows the fuse as soon as you turn the blower switch on

 

Then you should do the test outlined in post #11 above as @Dm93 stated.
You have a short somewhere.

 

When troubleshooting something like this, it would be good to have a 50amp circuit breaker. I just looked online and saw some for automotive use. Most state 'for Car Marine Trolling Motors' but it should work. Even if it's temporary, after a while the cost of blown fuses could exceed the cost of the circuit breaker.

 

Since the blower motor is disconnected and it’s still able to blow a 50 amp fuse, might as well use a much smaller circuit breaker to do this testing. No sense continuing to let 50+ amps plus flow through whatever is shorted. Same holds true if fuses are used for testing.

 

Use a test light with the circuit isolated as I stated above, then when you wiggle wires you will have a visual indication when you get to the short.

 

True - a short is a short. A lower amperage breaker is going to blow.

 

A test light is cheap. Readily available at most all auto parts stores and also serves as a visual indicator.

Breakers have their place.
But a test light will do in this situation.

 

Someone made the comment to me that it could be a great chance of it being my control panel for my climate control. How much percent of a possibility chance is this?

 

0, if something was shorted in the A/C controls or A/C Amplifier the 10 amp A/C fuse or one of the ignition fuses would blow instead.
The 50A heater fuse only powers the wire going directly to the blower motor and the wire going to the 10 amp A/C fuse via the HEATER Relay.