The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

Show me the dyno. Would LOVE to see dudes in FL with 50-60more HP than me. The internet says 3% per 1000ft so would be curious. I've lived over half my life at 10,000 feet, maybe im just ignorant of those kind of power losses (30%?)

Read post 2. I show a loss of 1mpg from gears alone, no other changes.

 

Gotcha, you have no idea how emissions are tested, your post makes more sense now. Those old two speed tail pipe test you mention are all about engine speed and parts per million. Gears dont care about engine speed when it comes to emissions

 

I mean you just quoted what most people claim ~3% per 1000 feel gained. I should be pretty simple to understand even without a dyno sheet. There is less air at elevation. You can’t get around that on an NA car.

So yeah if you are at 10k feet you are you going to see ~30% decrease.

Try timing your 0-60 in Colorado Springs vs your 10k’ spot. I bet you’ll see a difference assuming same conditions.

 

I’ve also read that the 3% is pretty conservative too so likely way less. Would like to see some dynos though if there was a reasonable way to get them.

Theres a good stretch up by Fairplay around 10k I could try.

 

Would be interesting to see though. I spent maybe ten minutes searching and found one thread where some guy did this with dyno sheets. The images were broken of course.

 

5.29’s in a 8.75 elock. Figured I’d share.

 

Finished up the front this morning. Solid collars both front n rear. Pinion preloads are tight at the top of the spec

 

Very nice. I debated doing the regear of my 80 but after doing a set on a D60 and 14Bt, I'm not sure I ever want to do another set of gears lol. Not sure how those compare to Toyota

 

dana 60 is much different than Toyota. Toyota solid axles you can pull the pumpkin out and work it on the bench. IFS is slightly different because the modern ones are clamshells. To a newbie it can be almost impossible without home made specialty tools to work the clam

 

I've been looking at Eastcoast Gear Supply to get some preassembled. Looking to do 5.29's , already have the TRD OR rear elocker and looking to add in the Eaton to the front. Can anyone be kind enough to steer me in the direction of what I'd need? I'll be sending my stock parts back for the core charge. My mechanic said he can install prebuilts but I was hoping to get some enthusiast yota assistance on here?

 

you’ll need 2 tubes of green rtv, 7 quarts of gear oil, and drain n fill plug crush washers for both diffs.

 

And final notes of both builds.

 

yea I liked your data. It looked like you weren’t doing an identical loop and just looking overall. 1 mpg loss makes sense, more teeth thicker oil more friction. There’s an explanation there that makes sense. 4 mpg better there is no explanation that makes sense. These people claiming 25% improvement in mpg from gears makes no sense. Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to do my loop before regearing to know for sure, but taking more general measurements it has been the same about.

for hp loss I agree 3% is too much 2% is more what I would think. But what I know is the MAF detects air flow and with thinner air you get less air volume. This corresponds to less oxygen for combustion so the direct injection reduces fuel to get a complete burn. If it didn’t you’d get gas blowing up your cats. If they were removed you would get flames out the exhaust/pops. Only real evidence is watching TFL they always get 1-3 seconds worse 0-60 than manufacturers vs sea level sometimes people get better or close. Forced induction is appealing because it would keep pressure of boost more constant so you wouldn’t see a drop off in hp. Not really worth the expense of a blown turbo which is inevitable. Also nobody does pikes peak without forced induction these days from what I can tell. Probably could ask those guys they would know

 

Well said, agreed. As far as pikes peak, those guys are all switching to electric LOL

 

What is the labor on this usually like and would you trust a random shop for changing gears?

 

would not trust a random shop. Where you at?

 

Jackson, MS.

 

maybe someone in this group knows of a place near you. Another option is ECGS fully built diffs. They come with 5 year warranty, which is damn good.

 

[QUOTE="This isn’t the 1980s with carburetor engines. Computers are able to adjust fuel/air mix from 0 feet up to usually 12,000 feet….

People in Florida have the same HP and MPG as those in Utah.

Altitude is often oversimplified as mountain driving and in those cases it’s not “altitude” that kills mpg it’s the changing grades and if the road such as steep ascents and hill climbs.[/QUOTE]


So to be as clear as possible, no one said the horse power or standard rated MPG was different per state.

Let me oversimplify it for you in 4th grade terms. Are you driving up hill gaining altitude? Will you be pushing the gas pedal more down? Do you need more power and will you be using more gas to get that more power? Yes, yes, and yes/yes more yes. All of that will effect your MPG, because you're gaining altitude.

Similar to when you walk up a hill vs walking on flat ground, does it require more effort on your part?


Again we could argue each step in the process of how computers calculate the mixture, blahh, blahh. You will use more gas as you climb vs driving on flat ground. It can not get more simpler than that. I did edit my post as I'm not a fan of being a dick.

 

It depends what size tires you have. With 33s mine topped out at 83 on the uncorrected speedo so maybe more like 88 on gps speed.

But yeah to go faster than that you need to have the global speed limiter changed.