No crank

Hello I have 2013 Tacoma.. this weekend I was driving down a rough road and the truck just died. Everything comes on but won’t crank. I checked all fuses and everything there looked fine. Started down the trouble shooting ideas from this forum but now I’m stuck. So I can jumper across the starter relay and get the starter to turn over but the engine won’t fire. Any help appreciated

 

Starter going out or Alternator fuse? Is it auto or manual tranny?

 

The starting system consists of the Ignition Switch, Starter (STA) Relay, Transmission Range Switch (AT) or Clutch Start Switch (MT), Clutch Start Cancel Switch (MT only if equipped), & Starter.
Power flows from the ALT Fuse (120/140A) to the AM1 Fuse (50A) to Pin 4 (White/Blue) of the Ignition Switch, when the key is turned to the crank position power flows out of the ignition switch on Pin 3 (Black/White) through the STA Fuse (7.5A) through the Transmission Range Switch (AT) or Clutch Start Switch (MT) to Pin 1 of the STA Relay.

Power also flows from the AM2 Fuse (30A) to Pin 5 (White/Red) of the Ignition Switch, when the key is turned the the crank position power flows out of the Ignition Switch on Pin 7 (Green/Black) to Pin 5 of the STA Relay.

Pin 2 of the STA Relay is grounded via Ground Point EA on the right front fender and ground point EB on the left front fender.

When power is applied to Pins 1 & 5 of the STA Relay it closes and sends power to the S terminal on the starter engaging the starter to crank the engine.

 

How many miles?

A factory starter switch should be changed by 150K.....nothing lasts forever especially with DC current.
After that should put in a new one every 100k or so.....

Other than pump and efi relay.....this is easiest to check/ and change.....and all of em go eventually..

I keep a spare in glove box got off ebay for $20......along with a efi and starter relay.
With that spare....wouldnt have to even install it if I broke down.....just pull that plug off old switch.....let backup hang under dash til get her home......start with screwdriver......
reason you can steal most any car without a smartkey....takes less than 2 minutes.....


You can check for fuel flow by sticking a long tube on the fuel pressure regulator output and crank the engine......

 

Hello thank you all for the help!

it’s automatic with 170000 miles

 

Hello I finally got around to troubleshooting this truck and and did everything recommend including new switch and STA relay! Everything that O’silver_taco suggested was on point. I did a resistance measurement on grounds and seem correct as well. I can pull the STA relay out jump across the NO contact and get the starter to crank but no start. I have a code scanner one code was found P0335. I’m stumped

 

Get you a test light and let's see what your missing instead of just throwing parts.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-information-diagnostics.784008/#post-28042155

 

Thank you that post really helped I had a test light and Dmm and found a bad connection on the STA fuse cleaned it and now we are cranking with the key but still no start. Sprayed starting fluid as a quick test still no start

 

Thats next move ....probe...and start ruling out one thing at a time.....

 

Start at the am2 fuse and follow all the way to the end.....12V......coil / black/red stripe....

next and not so easy .....the whole am1 line.....this supplies a ton of things like fuel pump/ injectors.......

The mass air sensor is a trouble spot....because it provides the ground handoff from the starter position to run.......its a ground shunt........

Also a bad crank sensor is also a 100% no start......
warts and all........


A very long shot....would be the neutral start switch on tranny has gone bad....I believe am2 goes thru this........

 

Ok, now we need to see if your getting power to the coils. Test light connected to ground check Pin 1 (Black/Red) of one of the coils with the key on and make sure the light lights. If that's good connect your test light to battery positive and check that it lights on Pin 4 (White/Black).

 

Not a bad plan, I just went straight to the coils since the OP said it wouldn't fire off starting fluid.
I believe the p0335 code may be a false code set due to the no crank, the PCM will set a P0335 if it doesn't see a crank signal despite seeing a start signal.

 

Ok so did this black/red has power but no hand on blk/white

 

So test light connected to battery positive it does not light on Pin 4 (White/Black) of the coil?

 

No it does not

 

And you know were all gen1's here........

.....if I had a '13 .....I'd just take it to the dealer.........
.....could be as simple as a sensor wire short......

Personally .......I wouldnt trade u even......I know every part on my truck......held each in hand over past 2 yrs.....just before I installed it.....better than new..........


Anything after 2011.....any vehicle......to the dealer.......
......sucks........

they are highly trained.....and will never screw things up.....
however you might get a bunch of new parts you didnt really need.....
thats how they get paid......labor rates on each one......

talk to the flys on the wall........

 

Ok so we need to check the grounds at the back of the cylinder head, do you have a 2.7L or 4.0L?

 

4.0

 

Yea tho Op accidentally posted here, really other than the electronic throttle and variable valve timing the base engine management on 2nd gens doesn't differ a whole lot from 1st gens.

 

Ok so your looking for ground point EE on the back of the passenger cylinder head.