No crank

I checked the grounds on the Cylinder heads with the test light on + of the battery and everything appears to be good. Test light lights at all locations but the coil packs

 

Did you give all the wires on that ground a tug test to make sure none are broken internally?

 

Ok I appolgize I was probing the wrong wire my son with much younger eyes found the white/blk does have gnd

 

Ok do you have a scan tool that can read live data to see if you have RPM while cranking?

 

Ok this is where I might fall off on the knowledge… excuse me I don’t understand

 

I'm trying to determine if the PCM is seeing a crank signal or not, if you have a scanner that can read live data you can look at the RPM PID and see if it shows around 200 RPM while cranking. If you don't have a scanner alternatively you can look at the tachometer and see if it moves while cranking.

 

The tach doesn’t move

 

I’m trying to upload a picture of my code scanner but I don’t think it does live

 

You can do a visual inspection of the crank sensor wiring, the crank sensor is behind the A/C compressor and I believe the wiring runs up behind the alternator.

 

Ok so should I replace the crank sensor

 

I wouldn't just throw a sensor at it, inspect the wiring first. You said the truck died when you hit a bump and hasn't started since?

 

Yes sir that’s right! I’ll pull skid plates and inspect wires and will follow up with you! I really appreciate all the help!

 

In gen1 fsm diagnostics.....it shows how to test the crank sensor with ohm meter......

 

It does in the 2nd Gen too.
But just because it ohms good, doesn’t mean it’s good.
If it’s WAAAAYYY out of spec, I might consider throwing parts at it.
Dm93 is right on the crank signal to ECM/tach. It’s a bit more “reliable”, If the wiring is good to the sensor. Be nice to see live data.

1. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.
   
   
   
   Standard:
   1850 to 2450 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
   
   
   If the result is not as specified, replace the crankshaft position sensor.

 

I wish I could help more, you can check the integrity of the crank sensor wires to the PCM and check for shorts to ground with a meter but it takes an oscilloscope to check the sensor properly.

 

For me it’s probably worth the 60$ bucks

 

But is it worth 3-4 hrs of your time to remove the alternator, A/C compressor, and A/C compressor bracket to replace it as a guess?

 

What model scanner do you have?

Even the cheaper ones will show most generic live data.

 

No it does not....

 

That crank sensor is so important.....I keep a brandnew denso one for spare.......along with maf......

so wouldnt kill you to have a backup......

Kinda of pricey tho....



same on ignition switch......