OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

Looking to add oba. Looking at the viair 400h. It doesn't have a pressure switch and I don't want to spend another $200 for the 400h-automatic. I would like to cut in a pressure switch if possible or maybe do what this guy did in this video. Is it ok to use a pressure relief valve like this?

https://youtu.be/93L2JX0Ok5c

 

hey man just want to say thanks again for taking the time to respond to my Q's. Got everything wired up and working, went out to the dunes yesterday and was able to air down, play around for the day, and reflate everything nice and quick. Thank you!

 

Just passing along what I’ve learned here. Hopefully without too many errors. Be sure to monitor threads and kick in from your experiences.

 

Yeah that’s fine. You typically only use a pressure switch when you have a tank for storing pressurized air so the compressor kicks on automatically when the pressure drops below a certain point. Use with a manual switch as well to keep it from coming on when you don’t want it to(like when you’re sleeping). The relief valve keeps hoses or connectors from blowing by limiting the maximum pressure since the compressor will run until you shut it off.

 

Just received my GTFO mount but am missing the hardware. Anyone know what sizes I need so I can just go get at local shop?

 

I’m having a hell of a time deciding between mounting my ARB single in the driver’s bed box, or mounting it in the engine compartment with an air hose/switch to the bed box. Airing up tires only.

I actually already bought the bed box and extended harness from All-Pro, but now that I see it, I’m having second thoughts. The All-Pro box just hangs on the end of the factory bed box door screws with nuts to secure. This doesn’t seem nearly secure enough considering the weight of the compressor/box bouncing up and down with the suspension. The extended harness I decided to ignore completely as it appears to use 12awg power wires which aren’t nearly big enough according to my calculations. So now I’m stuck. I can reinforce the bed box mount and run my own 6awg lines and rig up a switch. Or - I can start over with an engine mount and run an air line with some lower gauge switch wires to the bed box. I feel like either location is going to be dirty/dusty/some moisture. The engine compartment actually feels like it’ll be better protected to me, but I would definitely be running the compressor with the hood closed, so I don’t know how much the heat is an issue.

I’d love an opinion from anyone that already has OBA. The project isn’t worth it to me unless I can connect a hose and flip a switch from the bed.

Edit: I did look at the ExpeditionEssentials box, but the All-Pro appeared to be more enclosed (to prevent dust/dirt/water) and at the time I was planning on using the included extension harness.

 

As someone who has their ARB single mounted in the corner closest to the front passenger seat, I'll attest it stays remarkably clean in the very dusty environments I put it through.

I didn't bother with running hose and wires to the back, I just have a switch in the cab and the ARB hose is long enough to reach all 4 corners without issue. I have to pop the hood to get to the OBA so I just hit the switch as well before I get out of the seat

I've even seen a clever piece of angle iron to mount the switch and air chuck to one of the open fender holes.

 

To connect it to the fender? Its M6 or M8 hardware.

 

Without reading this whole thread I'll chime in on the extreme outback belt driven compressor. It's probably been covered and is buried in this thread somewhere but meh, and not even sure it would fit on a tacoma. With that said, if you can make it fit, I doubt there is a better product out there. I installed one on my Jeep probably close to 20 years ago and it's still "compressing" just fine. It fills one of my 37's up from low single digits to 30psi in about a minute or so, without using a tank. The only problem I've ever had with it is trying to fill tires on multiple rigs and having the discharge hose get too hot and blow. I always figured I'd switch it out to a hard line but filling multiple rigs is a rarity and never bothered.

ExtremeFlow Belt Drive Compressor SERPENTINE BELT | Extreme Outback

 

I had my single arb installed in the stock driver cubby for over a year without any issues. I only upgraded to a expedition essentials box because eventually, i'll be upgrading to a bigger compressor. i only drilled holes to bolt the compressor to the box and a couple of holes to pass the power cable in and another one for the steel braided leader hose (which mounts to my bumper with a quick disconnect).

The only thing with using the stock cubby hole is make sure to open the door when youre running the compressor. With the expedition essentials mount, i dont bother since the top is open (but I probably should open the door for more air flow).

 

I’m not familiar with pneumatic systems, so I would really appreciate someone sanity checking my plan for an air line from the engine compartment to the driver’s bed cubby:

• ARB single
• 4-way stainless junction (2 male, 2 female) 1/4 npt
  

1. 1. Compressor output (onto male)
   2. Leader hose (onto male)
   3. Quick connect/disconnect (onto female)
   4. Pressure switch (onto female)

• 1/4” stainless braided leader (~24”, 1/4 npt female both ends)
• 1/4 npt male to 3/8 push to connect
• 3/8 DOT hose
• 3/8 push to connect to JIC-4 female (not sure how this adapter will work yet)
• JIC-4 quick connect/disconnect

I think that’s the fewest connection points I can come up with using 3/8” line and the ARB quick connects. Does that sound reasonable?

Any benefit to running a 3/8” leader hose instead? Do I need one with an integrated check valve?

 

the leader hose is your compressor outlet and you don't need a check valve to the compressor its built into the arb.

 

For those that run multiple hookups, do you notice an abundance of moisture in the airline? Assuming it's condensation but maybe I need to run another water separator drain closer to my tank? Just seems like an excessive amount while I'm using it.

By excessive I mean if I blow air onto something I can see very small droplets of water almost mist like occasionally. The separator I have installed just before the quick connect in my bed never holds any amount of water from what I can see

 

Do you ever drain the tank? That’s where it typically accumulates.

 

I only let the tank fill while i'm using it, I don't let it store air at all, but yeah I have drained the tank and next to nothing comes out of it.

 

Do you mean the tank fills when you’re using the compressor or the tank fills when you need the tank for storage? If you’re bypassing the tank that could be the problem.

 

Has anyone found a way to go from a JIC-04 thread to poly line, back to JIC-04? I'm wanting to run Poly from the compressor to the back of the truck and attach the poly to the ARB coupler.

 

Amazon, then just type in DOT fittings and find one with the thread pitch you want to use. Think I used a couple 90 degree ones and maybe a 45

 

I don't think I have ever posted in this thread. Wanted to share my set up. I have a twin compressor in the engine bay on a Slee mount. My power and locker switches are run to the overhead console like you cool OR guys using a Meso switch panel. The A/C drip line is a perfect spot for entering through the firewall on the passenger side. As for my lines I have ARB remote chucks on the bed cross bar passenger and driver side.

Compressor / power install --

https://youtu.be/dU5F1ccnFnc

Air Lines / Remote chucks install --

https://youtu.be/dB0muc0XWX8

Air lines / Switches / Solenoid install --

https://youtu.be/snhGjtQz0uQ

 

Picked up an ARB twin and a Slee mount for my 2011 V6. This is probably a dumb question, but how did those of you with this setup remove the power steering reservoir? Slee's instructions say to simply pull it up, but I can't fit a tool (much less a finger) into position to lift the tab locking it to its mount. I'm guessing I need to get a metal dental pick? I'm presuming that there's a reason that they don't recommend simply unbolting the mount at the start, and then removing the reservoir.