The LED SAE J583 Fog Pod & Fog Light Review

I got images ready, let me explain one by one what SAE F function fog mean. Since this is SAE J583 thread.

First step is to understand what is proper aim of proper fog lamp.
In J583 F regulation, lamp shall be aimed so maximum gradient (=cutoff) align to 0.75D 0.75 degree down from H line ( horizontal reference line= lamp center )
This equal to what many heard about
4" down at 25'

This is easier if fog lamp beam has actual visually distinct enough cutoff line.
Many fog lamp are designed at straight aim without adjustment, typically beam cutoff aligns about 0.75D to 1D ( 1D is used for F3 regulation)

And H line maximum intensity to be no more than 585 Cd ( definition of glare)


But issues on many offroad pod fog lamp does NOT have referable cutoff line. And many of lamp is designed with vertically symmetrical beam. Unlike some of fog lamp intended fog lamp,
many offroad pod LED fog has peak in the center, spread upper and lower about same amount.

For example, this is Pro beam I made optical mock up ( I even recreated 25R/L island brighter spot of SS3 beam too!)
To make this beam work with SAE J583 F function

Rule is to make cutoff at 0.75D

But then, where is cutoff? Can you tell?


Based on 585Cd maximum allowance for glare, I trim beam with 585Cd threshold, and it look like this.
585cd threshold is at 6 degree up line.

This is the reason I suggested 6 degree down aim for Pro if user want to use as SAE Fog ( at least to prevent above regulation limit glare)
To make this line at H line, entire beam must be aimed 6 degree down.


This is photometric data of Pro white.
SS3 did not have defined enough cutoff criteria, so I requested to make it work at least on photometric table itself by keep aiming down as much as needed to make H 10L - H 10R ( horizontal line from 10 degree left to right) maximum intensity below 585Cd.
This way, at least beam is not causing glare defined by J583

and here is no glare aimed Pro.
Maximum at beam center is 5.8D down. ( entire beam had to be aimed 5.8 degree down, the reason I suggested 6 degree down aim)
My suggestion is consistent to obtained data.


Something to note, SS3 Pro had E-max at 24R! not center. This translate to extremely strong performance at far side view angle illuminance capability at offroad usage.



Visual translation in gray scale view, for more familiar beam appearance.

Left is linear and right is log scale view.
Linear view is most likely what many see, and have impression of.
Can you tell where is cutoff line?

Vast majority only can guess cutoff by, somewhat brighter impression zone. Many think cutoff is visually somewhat brighter impassion upper edge.
Which is around 2.5 degree up.
But if you based on this line, still large amount of above glare limit beam scatter leak upward.
Actual glare limit safe cutoff equivalent is much higher than many think.





And this is the reason I suggested to use phone app, digital level. That's only way to accurate achieve proper aiming to prevent glare.
Because this is the angle photometric data shows safe for glare defined by SAE F function.





IF someone wrongly believe and aimed lamp based on guesstimated cutoff line, and do 1 degree down for example,
anything above 3.5 degree to 6 degree spillage will be facing directly to on coming traffic.


This is particularly tricky, because SS3 Pro really don't have visible cutoff, many not understanding definition of cutoff, guessing wrongly.
Not understanding causing glare to oncoming traffic.


For example, on the wall, since fog lamp is mounted lower than headlamp, it will give false impression of my fog beam is way below low beam such as image below.
But this is how it look like 1 degree BEAM aim down ( which still is causing severe glare)= cutoff equivalent line is still 5 degree up.


This is the estimated impression of beam aim 1 degree down by wrongly understood aiming process.
You won't see much of beam reach above low beam cutoff, this also gives false sense of my fog isn't blinding.



But when add oncoming vehicle at 50m, this is what actually happening.




If somehow someone define guestimated visual cutoff( at 2.5 degree up line), and carefully align that to 1D line, that will be 3.5D beam down.
And this is expected impression

Top 2.5 degree of above glare limit upper scatter still hit oncoming driver


for reference, at 6 degree down aim this is how it should look like





I hope those visual reference help more user to properly educate about aiming, and beam character of each lamp.
This was case study using SS3 Pro, and the reason I keep saying strict aim protocol. And the reason is based on photometric data set.
And only reason I am strict about here is, because this is SAE J583 thread.

Enjoy lamp with understanding, and if you go outside of SAE regulation, then enjoy accordingly. with proper education, I am certain you will know when and how to use lamp for your best interest and optimum way.
But if you don't know about detail, you maybe blinded by "term" of SAE, and wrongly causing severe glare.



Summery
Fog lamp must be aimed so CUTOFF line 4' below lamp center at 25' of distance. ( this only possible with fog lamp with actual defined enough cutoff)
SS3 Pro does not have visually referable cutoff to aim properly.
Therefore, to make it simple for average users, I suggested to use Level app.

SS3 Pro 6 degree downward suggested
SS3 max 4.5 degree downward suggested
If you use elite, then use very defined cutoff line, adjust to 1 degree down ( 5.2" down at 25' F3 aim)

if you use 4 Banger HXB 4.5 degree down NCS 4 degree down
4 Banger HXB is too bright and cutoff also not sharp enough to my opinion, I do NOT suggest for onroad fog usage.
If you want to use because of snow melt, aim 4.5 degree down, don't attempt to aim with visual guess, cutoff is still too weak, and can glare severely with wrong aim.


And lastly, this is the reason why photometric data set is extremely important. It looks Ok, no one flashed me has no validation to fog beam isn't blinding. SAE j583 is designed for on-road use.




If anyone has question about SAE F function, feel free to ask me. I try my best to share as much information I have, or studied.

 

It may have been too long for some to read through, but basically I am saying same thing.

Aim lamp so cutoff( line to prevent glare) to be 4" down at 25' Still same thing, same protocol

To do so, Pro is studied to be found, entire pod must be aimed 6 degree down to achieve so.

Just in different level of detail analysis. Lots needed to be explained to truly understand what aiming shall be.


And using phone app level is very simple and effective way ! everyone has.

 

Thank you for you’re response I appreciate it. Looks like I have some decisions to make.

 

As @memario1214 pointed out, running the darker Max yellow lens tuned for 6000k emitters will work to produce the correct selective yellow color on the white 6000k sports, because they are both a 6000k light source.

The selective yellow sport/pro lens doesn’t produce the correct selective yellow color because it is tuned for 4000k emitters that require less color correction.

 

You guys really keep track! I didn't want to sell them due to the ability to do this, but we had enough people wishing to swap lenses on Max. So there you go.

 

Thank you for your response. I should have reread you post about the SS3 MAX selective yellow update. Now it got me thinking if I put the MAX selective yellow replacement lense on a 6000k white SS3 sport wouldn’t the light output be far less than the 3000k selective yellow? In that post you said a lense swap from white to selective yellow SS3 MAX had about a 19.7% loss. Not sure if my thinking is correct but I think it is lol.

 

Correct. You will incur nearly a 20% filtration output loss with the darker yellow Max optic on the 6000k sports, vs the lighter yellow optic on the 4000k selective yellow specific sport which incurs a 6-7% filtration loss. In other words the proper DD offered selective yellow sports will be roughly 13-14% higher in output intensity than using the Max optic on the 6000k sports.

 

@crashnburn80 Do you have any experience with heretic studios lights?

 

Heretic Studios does not make or sell fog lights. They sell misleading “fog light kits” putting a non-fog pod into the fog light location using an open bucket reflector optic that will be unable to create a flat pattern cut off horizon, much less a compliant fog pattern. It’s basically the same as Baja used to do before they created an SAE lamp. Definitely not recommended for a fog.

Outside of the fog application, no I have not tested or evaluated any of their products. Most my light evaluations are around products designed for street use, or at least SAE style patterns (even if peak intensity exceeds SAE compliance, like the DD Max Driving light) with a few exceptions like comparing Spot beams. Heretic Studios doesn’t make any products that fall into those categories, just off road lights.

 

They don't like when you point this out, either. They blocked me on instagram when I commented as such on one of their ads in my feed. Targeted advertising doesn't always have positive feedback, sorry guys.

 

Fair enough, my plans are for off-road lights so I probably put this in the wrong thread.

 

There are a literal crap ton of options for offroad lights and everyone has their brand of preference. It would be dang near impossible for someone to test even reputable brands because one brands "spot" pattern is vastly different from another brands. I have heard people like Heretic lights and I'm not doubting they are pretty good. But I think there are better choices out there, this is a personal opinion of course.

Just comparing their Spot beam pattern data for the Quattro vs DD SS3 Sport. The Quattro is 825 lux @ 10m and the SS3 Sport is 1510 lux @ 10m. BUT, the Heretic Amber Quattro Spot is also rated at 825 lux @ 10m, that makes me question if their specs are even accurate. Being that they are similar in price and that the optics aren't able to be swapped out (at least from what I can see), I don't see any advantage to Heretic Studios LED pod lights. The light bars are a different subject though. Heretic (at least according to their published specs) light bars seem considerably brighter than DD's Stage Series. But I like how DD's light bars have the option to change your beam pattern and color how ever you would like. My guess is that DD is working on updating the light bars since those have been out for quite a long time. That is just a suspicion though.

 

I do not really view open bucket optics as a competitor to TIR optics for off road. They are very different. Sure comparing spots DD destroys the competition cited, but the DD spot will also have all the light focused into that spot with little illumination elsewhere, whereas an open bucket optic will have major light spill illuminating the surrounding area with a lower intensity in the spot region. Before deciding on brands I think you need to decide what kind of optic you are interested in, then shop accordingly. I wouldn't put Heretic against DD since the products are so different, instead I'd put them up against Baja which uses the same open bucket style optics, that will have that greater light spill for broad illumination, and less focus intensity. I've not personally tested the Heretic lights, but looking at the products, I'd lean toward going with Baja for that purpose.

 

Thinking about my install of my @Diode Dynamics SS3 Sports in selective yellow, I'm pretty sure I had to push the lights all the way down and tighten the mount.
I have these installed in my factory bumper on my 2010 Taco.
I feel like I don't have the proper adjustment to go low enough. The metal "pin" with the ball end also doesn't fit in to that plastic piece. I followed all the instructions, but I feel like the fitment isn't the best.
I was able to meet the 4" @ 25ft but the rotation is maxed.




I hope this makes sense... lol

 

I stumbled onto a bit of good luck- SSC3 Max amber fogs for $403 and some change after tax and shipping, pretty stoked! I checked the posting and they went up to $418 shipped before tax, so looks like I scored.

Checked the seller before purchase, Madison Motor Parts is on Diode Dynamics approved sellers list, fingers crossed I’m getting what I expect.

I’ll use them to replace some Morimoto XB fogs. I was driving around in the snow a few days ago, perfect conditions for everything to stick to the headlights and fogs, 1/2 hour and I lost probably 20% of the usefulness of my headlights and the fogs were almost useless.

 

Is this in your 99? Are your running halogen headlights? You're very close to me just up 522. The Max is going to be quite the upgrade from the old XBs, and snow is certainly not going to be an issue.

 

Yes, in my 99. I’ve got Morimoto D2S projectors in aftermarket housings. I absolutely love my headlights, had them for about 5 years, had the XB fogs even longer but ever since I started reading this thread I felt the XB fogs were inadequate, have you partially to thank!

 

How do you plan on mounting an SS3 on a 1st Gen? I've thought about using SSC1 fogs in the lower valence. You might also find D2S post #5506 interesting when looking for headlight upgrades.

 

I fabricated the holes to for the XB’s. I’ll have to rework how I mount them as the XB’s use a stock mounting system for a late model Toyota, so likely just weld a plate across the hole at the depth I want them to be recessed at. I intend to set up the mounting so I can adjust height and level, something that wasn’t as easy to adjust with the XB’s, though I had them adjusted properly and only used them when I needed them.

The truck’s no longer my daily driver, honestly it feels like a bit of a waste of money and not sure how often I’ll drive it in inclement weather, it’s more my summer camping rig now. I question whether I should have bought a fog light upgrade for my 2018 Silverado. I really like Diode Dynamics, I installed 35 watt upgraded headlights for my Silverado, huge improvement over oem 20 watt.

 

The headlight info is interesting, though I will say even if the Osram D2S bulb is 15%-25% brighter than the Morimotos the comparison of the awful oem halogen headlights I got rid of with good reason is still a huge improvement. Maybe I’ll go with a bulb/ballast upgrade in the future but for now still happy with what I’ve got compared to stock