Shop Time w/T.W. Friends

Ryobi

 

The cost of a Ryobi is low enough to go buy a new one vs trying to repair it. I have a ton of Ryobi tools and am satisfied with my investment.

 

I need a machinists help (again). I need to put grease in one of these flat zerks on my mill, and oil in the flat ones on my lathe. Neither have been done since I got my machines (2 years ago) and I know it’s going to bite me if I don’t get it done. I saw those push lube things online, are they the way to go?

 

I tried to find it using some of my Fastenal resources and struck out.

 

If it felt like it was fighting to stay alive before you shut it down, didn’t make a bunch of racket and now acts like it’s locked up I’d guess a spin bearing. I had a 750 teryx do that to me one time, those motors are known for that. Completely different engine and animal, died the exact same way. Have you checked the oil for shiny metal bits?

 

Just push the ball and add oil. Not sure what they used backed in the day, maybe a metal squirt can.

 

I’ve got one of those, I agree just buy another.

 

Thanks, yeah my usual place only had a few parts they sell...kinda dissapointing.

 

I thought they had a squirt can back in the day, but on the mill it uses the same type of flat oiler, but says on the guide to use lubriplate grease, I haven’t had any luck getting it in there.
Also to avoid sounding like a dummy I can use a pick and dribble grease in a few of the top facing ones but there are a handful that are horizontal and when I do that trick oil just goes all over the place.

 

For flush mounted zerk's, you'll need a

$20 Steelman Thin Needle Nozzle Grease Gun Adapter, Fits Standard Grease Guns, Locking Sleeve, 4.75"es

needle adapter for your grease gun. But, if you're going to spend the money on one of those adapters, you might as well spend the extra money and get a

$29 Tooluxe 61077L Multi-Function Grease Gun and Lubrication Accessory Kit

whole kit. It doesn't have to be that one specifically but you get the idea. I can say that most setups that operate using grease will typically have a small weep hole where grease will come out to show you that you've adequately flushed out all the old grease and replaced with new. I cant say for certain if an oiled system operates the same. Just poking the ball with a scribe and dribbling in a little oil from a dripper can might not get oil where it needs to go.
Bottom line, there's always the right tool for the job.

-J

 

This trailer I made for Cole several years ago, I have two more axles off of an old plastic one and he ask me to make him a gooseneck. I told him he doesn’t have anything to hook it to.

Until today, the guy I do some welding for brought me a project and gave me this. He said it’s from the 1960’s. Must have been a wrecker.

I said thank you and I have the perfect thing to do with it, make Cole a gooseneck trailer.

 

@RLMoody or @williams63 might know more about that truck

 

Yeah, all of the sites I visited all sold the same things, which looked like accessories.

That zerk on the bottom looks like a button type and takes a different grease tube attachment.

 

Re poll:

Have flown in many a leaky military helicopter. Every crew chief I’ve ever known or flown with always says the same thing “when I stops leaking let me know, we have a problem”. Spent all day today trying to correct the driveshafts on a CH47. Pilots reported “high frequency vibrations” right before it got struck by the blades from another helicopter, so get to fix that too. Did not figure it out yet. If you thought the tacoma’s 2 piece driveshaft was a pain try a 6 piece 30 foot long one.. I like to talk shit about engineers not knowing how to dimension drawings but Boeing takes that to a whole new level. They clearly have no idea what a jig/tooling hole is.

 

Rolling chassis.

 

Needle point adapter for your grease gun is what I use.

Since the seventies . Lots of old machines with those type fittings.

 

It looks like it’s at a valid crank spot. I assumed you took the thrust washers and springs off the ends.
My first look see would be to pull the sparkplugs and do the wooden dowel check (depth and liquids). I have a borescope, so easier for me. This will also answer a liquid lock possibility on the crank if it STILL doesn’t turn. What concerns me is the surrounding oil and metal and yet the center area looks water cleaned or at least “upper cylinder oil”. Which is quite different than external or even outer perimeter. Chain, belt or gears? Teeth or keyway issue? The only bad thing to a hot shutdown is bonding/fusion.

 

Can’t quite recall who the diecast squarebody lover was…. @Kilo Charlie is it you?
I was browsing waiting for my wife and found an awesome gift for a buddy of mine. Also saw this …



Send me a PM with an addy and I’ll drop in the mail…

 

Dude! That's awesome! Pm on its way and thank you!!

 

I've always thought buying acreage and having some land was the solution to less than ideal neighbors, but I guess it can happen anywhere. I'm in a similar conundrum wanting to move as I've got a harder directly across the street from me. They like to retaliate by damaging my property and harassing me when I complain to the city. I mean come on, clean your shit up.

Also, about 35-40% of the houses on my street have become rentals including the one next to the hoarder and to the side of me which was just bought by a major property rental conglomerate agency. That agency was nice enough to plaster photos of my property all over the mls. A couple of days ago the website showed the rental status as pending. Oh goody, another one!

My problem is I've completely remodeled my house, own it free and clear and I'm not sure I'm ready to let it go. However, come spring if the price is right and the opportunity presents itself I may just move to greener pastures...