Long Travel BS Thread

This cutting the whole front end of the truck off is a lot of work…lol

 

I'm curious if anyone has weighed their truck after all their upgrades. Stock 2wd 4-door 2nd gen is 4010. Mine scaled at 5160lbs. 35's with 2-spares, spare 3rd, rack, driveline, jack and 4x4 conversion. This is my minimum weight. Ice chest, food, gas, etc still ads before hitting the dirt.

 

This was full fuel tank, single spare, and the usual tools I carry. I’ve since added about 150lbs to the rear

 

Prior to your linked rear you had Deavers, was it a custom Deaver pack or off the shelf?

 

Didn’t link the rear but this was weighed after the back half. Running the deavers meant for a dmz kit with one leaf pulled

 

Anyone using wilwood mc4 parking brakes and adjusted them themselves?

 

My first gen with a single spare and around 10 gal in the cell was 4800.

 

Does anyone else here have a spring under or linked double cab long bed 2 Wheel Dr. truck?
I’m wondering if any driveshaft modifications such as a single piece or slip yolk is generally needed when pulling 18 inches + of travel in the rear. Or maybe it’s a trunk by truck question?

My driveshaft needs all new U joints as well as the carrier bearing. I simply don’t have the time so I’m going to send it to a local off-road driveshaft shop. Wondering if I should get any modifications done so I don’t have to rebuild it twice later down the road when I go spring under or links.

 

Slip yolk without a doubt.

 

for links your gonna have to figure it out once you set the axle. My factory 4x4 slip yoke worked fine with my link setup, now granted I’m a short bed double cab so my links are shorter but I’m strapped at 21” of travel right now.

 

That’s what I remember reading, as my exact cab/ drivetrain setup doesn’t have one from factory.

is the usual case needing a “longer” drive shaft at bump or droop, or that it needs to be shorter?

edit: I suppose that depends on leads vs links.
Leafs would require an increasingly longer shaft moving from droop to bump
Where as links could have the longest length somewhere in the middle theoretically

 

I wanna say my driveshaft plunge was less than an inch or so difference between bump to droop. But I had to shorten mine because I went with a ford 9” rear end. Theoretically with links if you set ride height the same and keep the axle in the same spot then no change should be needed. Now having to do those things for the distinct point of not wanting to cut the axle back a little bit seems silly to me… but than again I have a fairly decent driveline shop local so no need to ship out a heavy two piece shaft.

 

2wd here…. I had to lengthen mine and add slip yoke when I went with the DMZ SUA. When I added the ford 9 it needed to be shortened some plus I had them put a 1350 yoke on the pinion end. Other ujoints are still 1330.

 

put new ujoints in for now. Then once you have your spring under or links in, cycle it from bump to droop and measure the draft shaft length changes, and have the drive shaft built around those correct measurements. too many unknown variables to have it made right now.

 

This is what I'm planning. If it was known for sure that I'd need a specific slip yoke or mods made I figured id do it now.
But for now ill stick with just a refresh.

 

You will for sure need to add a slip yoke. What size will depend on your final setup

 

I created an ad for my truck. Been an awesome rig since I bought it in 2011. Needs some cosmetic attention to the paint but drive train an suspension are mint. Just re did the front kit with new Bushings/ uniballs/ and powder coat. Has new bushings for the Dmz kit in the rear as well.

I am in Salt Lake but am willing to drive to St. George. Truck is originally from San Diego. I do have the Carb sticker on the hood which can ease registration back to California. Truck has been in Utah since 2016. Frame is in good shape with little rust.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2011-trd-offroad-long-travel-6-spd.786001/

 

For the guys running battery kill switches, do you prefer a manual switch with wiring into the cab or a remote switch?

 

+1 on this ! ^^^^^^

I’m going to move my battery soon and was going to put in a manual blue sea switch. But open to ideas.

 

I’ve always used manual switches.

Assuming by remote you are referring to something where you can push a button and it shuts off?

For something like a battery shut off you don’t want to reply on something with extra electronics like that. Unless it’s not for safety or something like that.