6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

kasbien,
But the parts I have will still work for him right?
what did you change?

 

Yes they will work. They were my prototypes so I built upon them since then.

 

Thank you! PM inbound!

Still waiting on the piston from Jegs. That's the last part holding up the whole deal. I'll be shooting them an email today inquiring about canceling and placing an order for the replacement 62-6122 piston.

 

For you guys that are doing this soon; I do recommend that you add some thermal protection to your pressure line. In case you missed it, I detailed the way I went about it here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ystem-shenanigans.698464/page-7#post-25102168

And here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ystem-shenanigans.698464/page-8#post-25102722

 

It's not on their website yet, but I just got a call back from Summit and placed my order for 62-6122 over the phone, if you are still not having luck with Jegs.

 

Good to know, I got my original order with Jegs cancelled and talked to their technical team about sourcing the new PN# from Tilton. If that falls through I'll give Summit a call and order through them.

 

Not sure if you actually went through with this, but if you did have more spacers made for the Bearing/HRB I'd buy one off of you. Need to replace the clutch/flywheel on a truck/Trans with 178k on it and I'd love an extra overdrive so contemplating the RC62F and HRB set up vs the 250.00 for the urd sleeve fix, this way i get a better clutch AND double overdrive..

 

@BillDaCat8 @Rezkid I currently have an 09 tacoma with the original plastic MC... based on this and a few other threads am I understanding that I can purchase the newer LC/ Prado MC with a metal adjuster ( p/n 31420-60032) and just use this whole unit in place of the original? Based on what I've read it's a cross reference for the updated 2nd and 3rd gen MC units sans the all metal adjuster. Thanks.

 

I did not. I left it alone as this is @BillDaCat8's Baby. I know he's got a lathe and the abilities though..

 

You can skip that and go straight for the FJ Cruiser parts that @BillDaCat8 has listed in post #1 of this thread. The idea is that you want to replace the plastic clutch pedal assembly with the metal one from the FJC and should use the FJ master along with it.

 

Agreed.

@super g If you are going to a HRB then I suggest switching to the FJ pedal. If you need a new master, it makes a lot of sense to just use the FJ master as well. The clevis on that master is plastic. But, it will work just fine.

 

@Kasbien has your spacers and more. He’s in the middle of developing a kit to make it super easy to adapt the Tilton HRB. If I were you, I would wait for him to get those finished up. It’s going to take you a while to find your RC62F anyway. Not to mention acquire all of the parts from Tilton that you will need.

That being said; if you are going to switch to an RC62F, you don’t necessarily have to run the Tilton set up. If you run a third gen Tacoma pressure plate (which bolts right up) you can use the third gen release hardware that will likely come with your transmission. Assuming you buy one used.

 

Update: got the base plate for the URD release bearing bored to fit the threaded sleeve for the Tilton HRB...problem is the machinist oversized the i.d. of the base plate by .002". Gonna put some green loctite on, let it cure for 48 hours, and try to reassemble the truck...

 

If you have a big enough ball bearing or something similar, you put the round metal object in the hole and smack it with a hammer. It will cause the hole to swell and shrink a few thousands.

 

So, I’m here at SEMA.

I found the Tilton booth and spoke to Kirk. He actually remembers me. I was surprised.

Anyway,
Still no plans for a kit for our trucks. He realizes that there’s good potential there. But, he says that they just don’t have the resources to do it right now.

We did discuss their kit possibly including a master cylinder as well.

Just keeping the idea fresh in their heads.

 

oof..

I'm here if you guys ever need me...

This.. Ping it.. might help some, but that plate was decently thick IIRC.. hopefully it gives it enough engagement.

 

We used to do this kind of thing on all sorts of materials and kinds of thicknesses with no problem. Obviously with the aluminum you don’t need to hit as hard.

 

Funny that you mention this, when I was getting all my parts (including the right part number that Summit said was discontinue by Tilton) Kirk mention I should speak with you lol.

 

I drove the X-runner tonight for the first time - in a long time. The HRB is working perfectly and I have the pedal dialed in with a long bucket elevator bolt. I'm still running the plastic pedal, but I didn't have to relocate the switch. This is temporary, as I still have a small drip on the bleed line. The Russell speed bleeder assembly has been delayed twice since my original order in October. It has been delayed till January 9th. I needed to get the truck outta the garage, though. She's limpin' along, but I'm the happiest I've been in 3 years - thank you to everyone that did all the heavy lifting on this thread! I really appreciate it and I hope one day I can help someone like y'all helped me.

 

What up Jake- I thought this Tilton HRB was designed to work off a larger 7/8" master cyl (a size up from the 3/4" OE) ? You're saying ideally we should size it smaller, maybe 5/8" bore to get more stroke throughout the bite point of the clutch? Wouldn't sizing down require more force to depress the clutch pedal?

I have the same issue you are describing and with the URD stg 3 pressure plate the clutch pedal is hella firm, it takes an effort to feather the clutch smoothly in stop-n-go traffic.

I ask because I recently acquired a pedal assembly from another member on here and wanted to see how one of those tilton master cyl's would fit without having to pull the pedal assembly from my truck.