Getting conflicting advice about a 1" lift

OP, I just now took delivery on my Alcan leaf packs and Bilstein 5160 reservoir shocks, and will be doing a driveway install over Christmas break from school. The Bilsteins will add no lift, but the leaf packs were built to 700# over stock and add1" of lift. I plan on overlanding a small offroad teardrop trailer all over the western US this next summer.

 

Well, my '15 I drove off the lot new and it has < 20k miles. Call me a street princess that doesn't drive my truck much if you want, but the only thing I'd really take over my truck is a new one. She's done just fine for me so far. I just need to drive her in the snow more now since someone wrecked our Rav4, so the need for new tires led to this stuff. She deserves some love along with some new shoes.

 

Damn, my 2014 is about to roll over 140,000. Yeah, I wouldn't even trade your truck for a new one.

 

If you look around you can get a Gen3 suspension with less than a thousand miles for under $500. Still say for what you want, how you use it, that would be the way to go. Good luck whichever way you jump.

 

Most 3rd gen take-offs have less than 1k miles. Many get them with less than 200 miles, like I did. Some people find a whole set for $200 and others around $300. The ride is SOOO much better than stock and some aftermarket setups. I rode in my buddies 3rd gen with King's and I wasn't really that impressed with the ride on the streets, I know they come alive off road though. I honestly miss how it rode comparing it to my current setup posted previously. I would highly suggest reading some reviews of the 3rd gen suspension on my thread. The truck feels very balanced and more planted. I get where you're coming from when you mention not liking to use second hand parts. But with very little miles, it's pretty much a new setup and you know it'll last 100k or more. Heck, you might even find a set of TRD Pro take-off's and that would be even better!!!

You don't need UCA's until about 2.5" of lift. Even at 2.5", many people still use stock UCA's. As far as other brands. That's something that will take a lot of research or just calling somewhere like Headstrong and talking with their customer assistance. I would likely go Fox or Icon if I didn't do the Bilstien setup, but that's just my opinion.

If you go with a setup like the 3rd gen where the front shocks are fully assembled, then install is very simple. If you get 5100's or a setup where you use your original springs or mounts, then things get more interesting since you have to either rent or purchase a spring compressor. Your biggest battle on the front is going to be the lower control arm inner bolts. They are often times seized and I would recommend soaking those in your favorite penetrating oil everyday for at least a week before doing the lift. This will help you, your installer if you go that route and the alignment tech. With either setup, disconnect the sway bar links so the LCA can droop more to allow room to get the old one out and the new one in.

The rear shocks are 2 bolts, very easy. If you get leaf springs, those aren't that hard either. Put the rear axle on jack stands, block the front wheels, dethatch the parking brake cable bracket, remove the jack stand on the side you're working on and put the jack under that side, remove the leaf spring U-bolts, lower the axle to gain clearance between the axle and leaf spring, remove front and rear leaf spring bolts and then remove the leaf spring. Install the new one in reverse order, put the jack stand back in and do the same for the other side. You'll need a torque wrench for the U-bolts during install and then retorque after 20-50 miles.

I'm sure there are videos for a visual, but in my 3rd gen thread I break it down in better detail. You'll definitely want an impact if one is available, just makes things so much smoother.

 

i was in the same boat, only wanted about 1.5" of lift

i went with 6112/5160 and the general spring HD springs. Never did a suspension install myself but being mechanically inclined its relatively easy, just watch a few youtube videos and make sure to abide by all safety measures (jack stands, chock your wheels, flat surface, etc)

its just boltin' stuff off then bolting new stuff on @ correct torque setting for the most part

also get yourself a haynes manual and review front/rear suspension removal/install process. You should have a haynes anyway

glad i did it, 6112's ride like a dream versus stock

 

everyone should know how to work on their car as a basic life skill. If they never learned, start now.
You don’t have to install both lifts the same day. You can do rear by itself then front whatever you want. Could be a day. Can spend break it up over a weekend if you want. Drive another car or bike in the meantime. Or rent one. Cheapest rental price I’ve seen is like $200 for up to a month.

OP my bad $750 is 6112 not 5160
5160 in the rear is like $400
Icon RXT leafpack I bought used around $300
said to be better than OME.
Deaver is likely better (maybe just slightly) but costs more and idk how customizable they are vs RXT.
Whole pack is for multiple inches, weight, and better downtravel.
Cheaper route for less left and worse ride is AAL.

plus wheels like Method beadgrip $1k
New tires $1k

if your plan is 5100 for $5k
take the cash flush it down the toilet
and ride in a shopping cart downhill
That route will give you the satisfaction of seeing how it feels faster.

good old usual talk about how you have to be a master tech to change a shock and that affordable mechanics are impossible to find.
every dealership (and more) near you is full to the brim with techs open to doing side work for $50/hr which is hundreds of people in every major vicinity, if you prefer to pay $50 x 8hr or whatever the labor is, rather than $0 x _hr DIY

granted you also have to assess and interview a prospective person you find to work on your car. If he exaggerates his ability, doesn’t know anything, lacks experience, etc. it’s not the guy to choose. To be able to interview someone to let’s face it, work for you, you still have to know mentally what the repair is, even if you outsource the performing of it.

Now. If you went to Toytec or something (probably won’t happen as you’re in SLC), you wouldn’t have to interview anyone. You’d be able to trust they’ll do it properly. That also comes at a justifiable higher price and your choice if you’re willing to pay it, find it worth it, and can afford it or not. If you’re a Hollywood movie director obviously you’d rather work for money than get dirty for free and will just pay the man. but I don’t know any millionaires driving 10yo Tacomas.
At the end of the day a good shop and the labor rate associated with it, has bills to pay on top of employees; electricity, space, and maybe profit (the reason people start businesses in capitalism)

keep in mind the truck is old. More shit will break and need doing. $5k once turns into each time something different then it’s $5k $5k $5k $5k, 4 times adding up in the long run
I have the FSM. Never used it. Don’t have chilton or Haynes. I would look at the FSM if I decide to rebuild the RA60F. Door panel removal is not as complicated it’s held on with 2 screws a child could undo; no Porsche engineering here
I’ve used YouTube and this forum

imagine 1hr fluid replacement $200/hr
vs doing it yourself for 0

Specialized work like regear is a different story. Which, by the way, you will probably end up wanting regear and lockers later on if you’re going the route of big tires, off roading, better suspension
Some expenses are unavoidable. Like new tires. They’re gonna wear out and cost what they cost no matter what you do.

 

@sliderhouserules Ok ill add in my experience here. I know you dont LIKE "used" stuff, but as others have stated, you can get 3rd gen Off Road take offs with close to ZERO miles on them, so yes they're "used" but not really. Now, for what youre looking to do, I put these on my truck and LOVE them. Rides SO nice, just what it should have come with from the factory. Please take my advice and others on here about this, its a good financial decision, good performance decision, and will allow you to have more $$$ for wheels and tires. I went with 265/75 as it added a little height on the tire side, and just looks great..best decision in a "non lifted" configuaration that you could possible want!

 

Love this guys. Thanks so much.

Where would I get the 3rd gen take-offs? Just my local shops?

 

I sent you a FB marketplace link, 10k in miles near SLC. Or look on the 3rd gen forums

 

I'm not recommending or endorsing this link in anyway, but it is a decent comparison for cost.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/7564822534.html

$1200 installed for a 5100 kit, $2k for a 6112 kit. Note that this doesn't include UCAs or a rear lift. I think they had a previous ad that listed UCAs as a $1k addon and a rear add a leaf for a couple hundred as well. Depending on what all is included, I can see a 6112 kit getting into the 3-4k installed price range, but a bare bones kit of just the shocks shouldn't be that much.

 

I paid 3k Canadian for 887 OME Springs, nitro charger shocks, dobinsons medium leafs and install. Included the alignment as well.