What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yes. All leaf springs are the same other between cab types.

95-97 are 3" shorter. Same length as the pre taco pickup trucks.

 

Thanks.

 

Good to know. There's a guy selling an e-locker axle with the springs, wheels, and tires still attached. It's from an '01. I thought maybe I could get away with the full swap and that way I'd have an opportunity to get new bushings in my own sweet time. Guess not. Still a pretty good deal at $800 if I can turn around and sell the wheels and springs for a little something.

EDIT: I asked him to send me his axle code so I could figure out what the gear ratio was. His axle code is B03A. Does that sound right for an e-locker from an '01? I thought the "A" meant it was an open diff.

The axle he's selling definitely has an e-locker, I'm just not sure whether I should believe it's 4.10:1 as the axle code suggests.

 

It should be 4.10, all the TRD e-locked Tacomas are 4.10 to my knowledge

 

B03A is correct for a 3rd from a TRD packaged truck. And yes, they have a 4:10 gear set in them. The 4th digit in the code refers to the number of pinions.

 

That's a way better chart than the one I'd been seeing on here previously. Thank you!

 

$84 CTEK - 40-206 MXS 5.0 Fully Automatic 4.3 amp Battery Charger and Maintainer 12V

CTEK 40-206 showed up today. Smaller than the NOCO Genius10. I connected the Northstar to it and its sitting at Stage 4 (moved through 1-3 really quick). Will check it later and see how its doing.

 

Not all, but most.

Edit... more specifically. Not all lockers are TRD. And not all lockers were 4.10.

It was an available option on it's own.


That being said, you are right... highly probable it's 4.10.

 

Can anyone tell me the interior color code on the 1998 brown/oak? I looked for a couple hours here and google. Dealer said its FD40 but I'm still having a hard time finding anything to buy under that code.

 

The door sticker on my '98 with oak shows code FA40.

You might get a color code from a VIN lookup here: https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html

I also bookmarked this decoder a while back. No guarantees on its accuracy, but it's the best I know of...

 

This sounds correct. I would call this hopeful.

If mine has not been on the charger for a while, mine has taken several hours to complete step 4.

 

Just checked again and still on step 4, popped the meter on it - sitting at 14.8.

It says its ok to leave it on, I'll check it again before bed. I don't hear any bubbling so I guess thats a good sign lol.

 

Did you say you suspected the possibility of a parasitic drag? I actually isolate my batteries and disconnect a post on the starting battery while I do this because I do have a parasitic drag.

 

Right? Yeah good idea.

 

Figure out what from?

 

@Digiratus - Just checked and it was at Step 7. Pulled the charger and checked at the posts, reading 13.0v. Going to leave it off the CTEK and check it in the morning. Thx

 

Not sure. Could be a few things. The most likely culprit is the dual battery voltage monitor that has a row of led lights. Not really worried about it. It would take a very long time to bring it down significantly.

I understand its your first time with the charger. But with time you come to trust it. If I'm not going to use the truck, I'll leave mine on for 24-48 hours. It wont hurt the battery.

 

Thx bro good lookin out. I gave the dealer/parts guy my VIN and not sure he was legit helping lol. I saw that link earlier too

Thx bro went with a

$45 SEM 15223 , Castella, Color Coat, Vinyl Paint (2)

SEM 15223 I heard it's super close and have a little chipping in a couple spots so I'll try and dab some with a sponge

 

Has anyone (active) in here converted to rear disc?

If so, did you upgrade the Master Cylinder? If so, what did you upgrade to?

 

SOS performance sells the adapter for the sequoia master than the tundra guys like. (Same setup as the tacos on base model tundras)